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  1. #1

    Default Triumph T160 chopper to Bobber build.

    Hi, old biker from the UK here, with an unexpected project after giving up riding back in 2001.

    I now have a new project that i really didn't expect, with a heavy heart i have taken on this bike T160 Triumph trident chop, due to recently loosing a very good friend, and his family has asked me to take it on and rebuild it/get it running, as there is nobody else that could, or ride it for that matter.

    So its been passed to me with the proviso that i build it and ride it for as long as i am able and then pass it back, however in the future i may well buy it, but just don't have the resources right now.

    Long story short he was involved in an accident 25-30 years ago and lost his nerve with bikes, but couldn't get rid of it, and always said he would ride again, but due to suffering server depression in recent years, he has never got any further with it.

    Years ago i re-sprayed it and despite me trying to persuade him that the colour was just wrong, he went ahead and put it together as you see it here, and then it sat in his flat until this sad time.

    So to me it only fitting that i build it again and ride it as he always intended, as a kind of rolling tribute, i will be changing quite a lot of things, as there is no way i would ride that colour, and some of the styling is a little questionable, plus there are some safety aspects that need addressing.

    Anyway i'll keep this updated, but don't know just how long it will take me depending on the amount of new parts needed, but its already in my breakfast room sharing with the cat, as there is no way it will fit in either of my sheds, and still have room to work.

    I have already decided that as a light hearted tribute the new tank with have BFG on the sides as to my wife he was always known as The Big Friendly Giant, as he was 6.7 ft and weighed 300lbs, and the wife is 5ft LOL!

    Anyway here is a pic before it has a quick wash and came in from the cold.



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    Last edited by Tricky13; 03-20-2017 at 5:41 PM.

  2. #2

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    Just a little update, now the bike is indoors and nice and warm, i have started to strip it down, will be changing quite a few things as i go, will keep the pictures coming for those interested.

    Have made a heat shield for the high pipes as i am not going to replace them, waiting for some stainless tube to add short turn outs.

    Good job i decided to just check the compression and not start it, as the oil feed and return where switched that Harley style master cylinder is going as aside from being mounted on the an extended engine mount, and being right in front of the battery box, so access was very difficult, it also weighed about 8lbs.


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    Last edited by Tricky13; 03-20-2017 at 12:59 PM.

  3. #3

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    Engine and frame have now parted company, the engine has had a wash and the frame is now getting some brackets removed and others re positioned ready for paint,




    I have been pondering on what to do about the pipes,, i like the three into two high level look but since i will be moving the passenger foot pegs, the design has to be wife friendly, i was going to make them really short, as i am also fitting a hydraulic clutch conversion, which make the slave run right next to the pipes, but i think i will just shield the cylinder instead, and keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't over heat it.
    Nifty little thing though, fits just right in place of the cable and retains the original adjustment.
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    Last pic is me trying out an idea with some old fork stanchions, and i have managed to find some slightly shorter turn out extensions on the net complete with baffles for £50, which should with the heat shield i made work OK for the pillion...i hope!



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    Last edited by Tricky13; 03-20-2017 at 1:03 PM.

  4. #4

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    Well as you can see i have finally managed to get some paint on the frame, and now the engine is back in, and other bits will soon follow, just a case of waiting for some parts to arrive, and some haven't even been ordered yet, and i still have to re make the seats, but it wont be long now, just got to try and string it out until the warmer weather gets here, more progress pics to follow.



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    Last edited by Tricky13; 03-20-2017 at 1:04 PM.

  5. #5

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    Couldn't resist a little mock up just to see how the the pipes looked, and to check just how close to the wife's leg they will be....cough!

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    Last edited by Tricky13; 03-20-2017 at 1:05 PM.

  6. #6

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    Getting a little closer just all the fettling and checking...and the few bits that are proving a PITA!

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    Last edited by Tricky13; 03-20-2017 at 1:08 PM.

  7. #7
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    a very nice improvement i think your buddy would be blown away!

    keep us posted,
    leon

  8. #8

    Default

    It lives!!!! was expecting the Amals to leak all over the place, and flood it but no it started almost first kick, and does so pretty much every time, still smokes a bit too much , but i am hoping it will clear itself once it gets a chance thoroughly warm up, was a little worried when the oil pressure took a while to come up, still a little low for my taste but that could be the gauge, so will run it up a few more times and then take it for a quick spin in the next few days.:grinno:

    Last edited by Tricky13; 04-02-2017 at 6:32 AM.

  9. #9

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    Unfortunately now getting clutch drag, so have had to strip the clutch and fit new bearings and plate, so waiting for parts, couple of recent pics.




  10. #10
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    Good to see another Trident saved from the breakers! Nicely done.

    The center cylinders tend to run warm and Meriden didn't add an oil cooler by accident. I suggest finding something suitably sexy with plenty of surface area.

    Those dual discs were always a good idea and well worth what the modified fork leg cost, especially when someone else paid for it.

  11. #11

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    Thanks! i decided to see just how hot the oil will get without, i have both oil temp and pressure monitored, as its only going to be used a summer cruiser in the flat Fenland's, i suspect that it wont get that hot...but we will see, i am also running a one size larger main jet on the center pot.

    Apparently some of the development took place in the southern US, so that may well be the reason for a large cooler, mind you i could always switch to a fully synthetic oil, if i can find a 20W50, that should take higher temps, the other option is too fit an external car type oil filter, that should help.
    Had one on my pre unit Bonnie and that never had over heat problems even at prolonged 90MPH!
    Last edited by Tricky13; 04-24-2017 at 5:22 AM.

  12. #12

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    Just to update this, had clutch drag problems, so had to rebuild/replace the clutch, but now suffering low oil pressure so have just stripped the engine to find the oil pump has been bodged, and the main shells are pretty worn as a result, hopefully i can get this sorted soon and eventually get some miles on it, only managed about 20 so far!

  13. #13
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    Bummer, But it could have been way worse so good you caught it when you did. I like the High pipes you have. I am not a triple expert but on the twins I like the late T140 High volume oil pumps and fit them to many builds along with cleaning up oil passageways. They are affordable as well. I have a Morgo pump on a preunit Bonnie and its nice and works well but the T140 updated pumps do just as well and cost way less.

  14. #14

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    Yes always liked the Morgo pumps, and fitted them to the twins I've had, unfortunately they don't make one for the triple as its a rotary pump, bit like a car pump, it works quite well when nobody has tried to be clever and fitted the case to pump gasket to the inside of the pump, stopping it making enough pressure, hence the demise of the mains and rod bearings.
    I am hoping that i may get away with crank polish and new shells all round, along with a new oil pump.

    Definitely could have been worse, heard plenty of tails of rods through the cases from the same symptoms.

  15. #15
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    I have never cared for the Triples much, Twins & singles for me. But I have 2 of them here I am storing for a friend in the UK who allegedly will be here in a month or 2 to ship them back to Blighty. (He was supposed to show up last year) One is a runner, the other is pretty complete but totally knackered. Sat out in the weather I believe and very rusty. But its all there and has papers. Its sitting in my garage at the moment as it wont roll and i have to take it partway apart to get the wheels to turn so I can stuff it into Storage. (it might make you cry) Pix on request.
    I also have some odds and bits that came in a pile,, seems the cases were ventilated for the same issue as yours. I might make a clock or wall art out of some of it. Gonna run the engine cases parts thru the solvent tank to clean them up. Maybe some is useable. Good luck with yours, but while apart might as well fix it right.

    I have enough parts to put together a couple rolling chassis. Frames, forks, wheels and body work, But around here without an engine they are not worth much. If you wanted a stock roller (if you decide to go cafe racer down the road later) perhaps I can send one with the other bikes when my friend from the UK finally arrives.

  16. #16

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    Thanks for the offer, but i am not really a standard bike guy, think i have only ever owned two in my life, although thees days comfy suspension is getting far more appealing.

  17. #17
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    Miles Engineering cloned the Rob North road race frames and someone else in the UK makes them now. They are a very nice home for a triple.

  18. #18

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    Well the dam thing is still fighting me ...again, took it out again today and its trying to run on two, and one if it gets a chance, looks like the carbs are coming apart again, i suspect the float levels are making it over fuel and stopping it firing.
    Wish it was still the 80s and i could just nip to a mates and pick up a nice set of Mikunies, but they seem to be hard to come by these days.

  19. #19
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    I myself hate those old Amals,, Ill put them on a restoration if need be,, But for a rider or anything custom its a Mikuni or a good affordable option is the JRC/PKW carbs. I am a dealer for JRC still and they are very nice. I just ordered a set for a buddy who managed to get his dream bike. A vincent Rapide with sidecar. The amals were giving him crap, so these carbs are going on.

    Triples are famous for holing pistons due to fuel issues,, you are also supposed to slightly jet the center carb rich to avoid seizure as well because it runs hot.

    See: https://www.tr3oc.com/forums/topic/k...rcbrill-carbs/

    See: http://www.triumphrat.net/classic-vi...pwk-carbs.html

    Also excellent review here by BSAOC Calif members: Pictures on their page
    http://www.bsaocsc.org/images/June_13_Piled_Arms_1.pdf

    Purpose:
    The purpose is to find a replacement for the Amal carb that came stock on Brit bikes.
    That is necessary for several reasons. Even though the new Amals are offered in several
    models as replacement carbs, Amal
    managed to reproduce all the faults of the original designs and add some too. Those
    faults are:
    1. Slides made of the same material as carb body promoting galling and fast wear leading
    to both sticking slides and loose slides that allow air around them through excessive
    clearances which makes the idle
    uneven.
    2. Flanges from the carb body to the motor's intake manifold that when over tightened
    permanently distort the carb body, causing the slide to stick in its bore. Once the body is
    distorted the precision of the carb is lost.
    3. Some have come through the manufacturing process crudely made. Are they Chinese
    or Indian copies or is Amal's quality control not that good?
    4. Pilot jets that are pressed in bushes not meant to be removed or resized, stuck down in
    a passage way that is prone to clogging if the bike is stored with gas in the carb. This
    passage way is not easy to clean as there is access only to one end as the passage way is
    a right angle turn off another main passage.
    5. Idle and transition circuits, including small holes into the mouth of the carb, that are
    prone to clogging and hard to thoroughly clean.
    6. The latest one for me is the sinking float. My friend's relatively new Concentric's float
    filled with gas while out on a ride, about 50 miles from the truck. We had to drill a hole,
    drain the gas from the float, epoxy up the hole, and pray we would be able to get back to
    the truck before the float filled again. We could find no hole for the fuel to leak into the
    float in an in-field inspection of the float. The float again filled to about 20% full in less
    than 20 miles of operation. Add to that the comment from a Piled Arms poster that he
    had to buy and test about five floats to get one that didn't leak.
    Common fixes for these maladies is to have the slide bore of the carb fitted with a
    chrome or brass thin liner or have the slide hard chromed to start with. But if the body is
    The JRC Carburetor, An Assessment…...By Lynn Bennett
    13
    already distorted these fixes might work off the bike but once the carb is bolted to the
    manifold the sticking slide returns. Brute force bending the carb
    flanges back into place or machining the flanges flat still leaves the body of the carb
    distorted. The idle bush is drilled out and a separate idle jet is installed in the float area
    of the carb (available because the first version Concentrics came with an idle jet in the
    float bowl area, not underneath the air screw adjustment). Amal moved the idling function
    years ago because idle quality suffered initially with the jet so far from its source of
    suction, the idle air passage.
    A New Carb:
    In a casual request for information on the JRC (Bill Getty) carb that I only recently
    heard about, Bill Getty offered to allow me an evaluation carb after hearing that I write
    TECH articles for the Piled Arms web page. The carb arrived with a new throttle cable
    (which was not required or used), a plastic tee for the fuel lines, several feet of fuel line
    (again, I had my own which I used), a set of six hose clamps (Sorry Bill, but they were
    sub standard and two broke while I tightened them…used the name brand micro clamps
    from an auto parts store), and several main jets (130, 132, 135, 138) all leaner than the
    main jet installed (140) in the carb.
    The carb is from the Keihin PWK family and is marked as a PWK 30 but the bore actually
    is oval and measures 30mm vertically and 28mm horizontally, perfect for my Triumph
    Trophy Trail as it originally
    came with a 928 28mm Concentric. It is a modification of the standard PWK 26 mm
    carb but consideration is being made to get Keihin to make a new body for a full 30mm
    body.
    Continued on page 14
    14
    The carb was jetted as follows:
    Main Jet…140. (may be a bit rich so will make adjustments on the first field test)
    Slow Jet…38 (same as pilot or idle jet)
    Needle jet was a pressed in jet (unknown size) but only one size appears in the Keihin
    parts catalog.
    Needle unmarked and in middle clip position.
    Slide (not marked but measures about a 2 1/2 cutaway (?) and is chrome Plated, Yea!)
    The air jet size is fixed.
    For specs, the comparison
    should be
    made between the
    Concentric, the JRC,
    and the Mikuni. The
    Concentric is a simple
    carb with only a
    few choices for needle
    and needle jets
    and a fixed air bleed
    system for the main
    and idle jetting. The
    JRC is also a simple
    carb with only one
    needle jet but about 35 needles with various tapers and needle diameters allowing a reasonable
    choice with only one variable for mid throttle tuning, the needle itself. The JRC
    slide is a modern flat slide with chrome plating to avoid galling of the carb's slide bore,
    unlike the Concentric. The Mikuni has virtually an infinite choice of needles and needle
    jets, and changeable main system air bleeds (air jets). With a dyno and enough time and
    knowledge a person could get the Mikuni jetted perfectly but I don't have the knowledge
    or the dyno and with all those variables for tuning, the Mikuni can be a nightmare to jet.
    Not so the JRC or the Concentric. The Mikuni's have a rubber
    manifold while the JRC's flange mount is rubber isolated from the body (no body distortion
    from flange over tightening as on the Concentric, Yea!). The Mikuni and the JRC
    have starter systems that include a jet
    and an air passage while the Concentric has a cable operated choke and a tickler button
    to flood the carb for starting. The floats of the Concentric are mounted to the removable
    float bowl while the Mikuni and the JRC carbs have them attached to the carb body. The
    JRC carb requires that the main jet and needle jet holder be removed before the float
    bowl can be removed and even then you have to snake the float bowl around the floats to
    The JRC Carb. Continued
    15
    get it off. Finally the JRC is sized externally to fit in the space allotted for a Concentric,
    with an intake bell that is the same size as the AMAL carb to allow the stock pancake
    filter assembly to fit perfectly.
    Specification wise the Concentric is simple to tune but very prone to wear and damage
    from abusive maintenance. The Mikuni is complex to tune but pretty good for wear.
    The JRC is a simple carb, simple to
    tune, and very wear and maintenance abuse resistant by design.
    Bill Getty (JRC) tells me he has successfully jetted a version of the JRC carb for the
    following bikes: Triumph T140, TR7, TR6, T120, T160,T110, T100 and TR5T, an Ariel
    4 (same jetting as TR7). He has not yet done any Norton, or BSA but has plans to do
    so. The jetting for the BSA's or Norton's can not be too far off equivalent Triumph displacements.
    He offers only the one slide but has yet to have anyone request a slide different
    from the one provided. Bill is willing to share tuning information and will stock
    jetting for the carb. He is upgrading the hose clamps

    JRC Install:
    All went well but I did have to shorten the bike's left side manifold mounting stud as it
    bumped into the JRC carb body. The carb is fractionally longer than the Concentric so
    Continued on page 16
    16
    fitting it to my Rickman may be more of a challenge than the fitting I did to the TR5T
    Triumph Trophy Trail (no air box…just a filter sock). But the JRC Carb is much shorter
    than a Mikuni of the same bore size. My original cable worked fine as did my air filter
    sock that was on the original Concentric, formerly mounted to the bike. The bike started
    right up after the install. I tweaked the idle speed screw and the air screw after the bike
    warmed up a bit. It idled very smoothly, ran smoothly and had no flat spots anywhere in
    the power band that I could determine running
    up and down the street in front of my house. It certainly ran at least as good as the Concentric,
    if not better. So far it looks like a better choice for a Brit carb replacement than
    either a new Concentric or the Mikuni.

  20. #20
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    Post too long, these hipsters with their crackberrys gonna hate me.

    Field Testing:
    The test ride was a 60 mile loop from 3000 feet to over 6000 feet, on both paved and
    dirt roads and some jeep roads. The bike starts more readily from cold or hot. The enrichment
    system (pull the plunger up and its detent locks up for starting) is adequately
    rich for starting but not overly rich, so you can let it idle for a few minutes with the enrichment
    system on. The bike ran well at all altitudes with no flat spots or rich bogs.
    The needle jet and needle seem perfect with the clip in the middle. The motor accelerates
    smoothly which tells me the slide cutaway is correct as well as the slow jet (pilot
    jet) is probably correct as well. The idle is smooth and can be made to be very slow
    without the engine stalling. At altitude I tried many times to induce a rich bog by giving
    full throttle at slow engine speed. No rich bog. The carburetion was near ideal, to the
    best of my abilities to tune a carb.
    I pronounce this carb a viable alternate to the Amals and a better choice than the hard to
    tune Mikunis or the problem prone Amals. JRC has the jetting for my bike right on. As
    for pricing, what a deal! At this time the price is $116 for the carb, only. All the extra
    piece parts I got are to be extra. Except for the gas line, the tee, clamps, and the heavy
    duty return spring there is really nothing else you need. It is indeed a bolt on mod.
    Conclusion:
    The JRC carb is indeed a viable, good alternative to either the stock Concentric or the
    Mikuni. See www.jrceng.com for the dealer list (JRC is a distributor, only, and does not
    sell retail). Many thanks to Bill
    Getty of JRC for all the help.

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