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  1. #1
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    Default Ď95 Heritage need some help!

    Hi all, Iím new here. I havenít had a bike for 8-9yrs and have basically forgotten whatever little bit I used to know, now itís kind of information overload!

    Kind of an intro, then some questions...Last bike was a Ď97 1200 sporty that I picked up essentially stock, and within a couple months, and with lots of help from a friend, I had a 4Ē stretch Ledsleds hardtail on it, stripped it down pretty lean, wiring was still kind of a mess. The most involved I really got other than taking an angle grinder to it when it still had a swing arm was putting a set of T-Boneís 10Ē T-bars on it and cleaning up the handlebars a bit- had no idea what I was doing but I took the switches off, sliced open the wiring harness and started getting rid of whatever wires werenít needed.

    Anyhow, moving on...I couldnít put off the itch to ride any longer and picked up a Ď95 Heritage ďnostalgiaĒ FLSTN. Itís clean as hell and I like the black/grey paint. Before I found this particular bike I had visions of a fat front end, split tanks, foot boards, short and tight rear fender, lowered, etc. This thing is so clean looking Iím just going to leave it mostly as-is right now.

    Some issues and things Iíd like to change sooner:

    Speedo isnít working. I picked up a PDF version of the Ď95 manual yesterday and it shows the speedo on one page, as far as I can find in the 400ish pages I donít even see info on how to remove the Speedo to get at the cable running into the bottom of it. Iíve been told to tighten that cable, and lube it while Iím at it. Iíve read somewhere that the other end of the cable attaches down on the front caliper, which I can clearly see. Thereís also a wire running along with it that then goes through a hole in the front fender and just stops inside the top of the front fender- I have no idea what this wire is doing- itís green/blue (depending on your eyes I guess) with a white stripe. Sporty had no Speedo and I gave no fucks- however with the split tanks and dash on this thing, I might as well have the Speedo and odometer operable while itís sitting there- moreso for the odometer so I can keep a handle on mileage for maintenance purposes. Iím sure getting to this Speedo cable under the Speedo is easy- I can see it, I just donít know how to get to it- help would be greatly appreciated. Iíve been googling this for a couple days, YouTube, etc, and I cannot find the answer as it applies to the ďolderĒ mechanical Speedo found on the Ď95.

    Moving onto my wishlist items- iíd Like to switch out the bars to Biltwell Chumps. It makes sense to me that while Iím doing that, I should clean up the bars and get rid of the unnecessary switches. It has no turn signals, the horn is present and switch works, but I donít need a horn. It seems like I should be able to run a car style ignition switch and that takes care of the kill switch/start switch needed to start the bike. I just donít remember how to do this stuff! Looking at the bar situation, it seems like Iím going to have to do either some reshaping of the stock clamp that holds onto the front master cylinder to make it look decent, or change that out completely- any thoughts or advice on that would be appreciated! The left side of course seems pretty straight forward.

    Another option, I think, instead of the car-style ignition switch, is just using the tank mounted switch and a start switch in the solenoid. This was simpler on a spotter with the ignition switch mounted on the neck. Itís the same concept, turn the key then hit the button on the starter, but to me at least, it seems a little more complicated on the dash mounted thing. I just donít really remember how I did this on the sporty. I know I had no idea what I was doing, but when I was done pulling out wires, my headlight didnít work! I managed to rat wire the headlight with a little toggle switch, but Iím not trying to have anything half-assed on this bike.

    As far as the bars, Iím also considering doing the Biltwell whiskey throttle with single cable just to make it look cleaner. Iím not sure if this is a no-brainer or if it is a better idea to run the two-cable version with the idle cable. Iím picturing being on the road and having the throttle stuck open, I suppose at that point you pull the clutch in and just get yourself to a stop and cut the engine off, but at that point I guess youíre needing help to get the thing home?

    Clearly, I donít have much of an idea what Iím doing here!

    A ways in the future a bit Iíd like to achieve the lowered look, and not sure the best way to do that- whether itís progressive 442ís or whatever, or just using the spacers. At that point I would be ditching the stock fender and looking to run a shorter, slimmer fender, small solo seat, etc- but again thatís a ways off, but Iíd be interested to hear any thoughts. I know thereís a ton of threads on some of this stuff, but Iím just kind of lost and canít figure out what applies to my bike. It seems like the way to go is swingarm mounted fender, Iíve seen some kits for that but very mixed reviews on install, things not lining up, etc. I have zero fab skills, donít really have access to anything to even go that route.

    Anyway, Iíll stop rambling. I know I can be long-winded. I hope this doesnít come off as needing to be spoon fed, Iím willing to do the work, just donít know where to start. Any comments, advice, direction, etc is hugely appreciated.

    Thank you all.

  2. #2

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    On the mechanical speedos you must first remove the trip meter knob, if present. Usually a small Phillips head screw, for which you will need a GOOD #1 screwdriver. Turn the screw out enough to slide the knob off its shaft, bringing the screw with it.
    Then, remove the center nut and pull the dash cover. You will then see the speedo, which should be surrounded by a rubber boot. You may or may not need to remove the boot to get to the cable nut. Put a flag of tape or a zip tie on the cable to keep the nut from falling down into the frame.
    Once it's loose from the speedo, you can unscrew the housing from the speedo drive at the axle. Slide the "chain" (old country term for the cable core) out from the top and inspect and lube it, or replace the assembly if the chain is broken.
    The wire to the fender powers the front fender trim lamp. You can of course remove it if not needed.

    Jim

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    Thank you! I’ve tried to move that rubber boot to see if I can get to the nut, but it doesn’t seem like I’ll be able to get in there without removing it (without scratching the shit outta my tank at least). I will attempt as you described!

    And thanks for the info about that wire, I didn’t even know that thing on the end of the fender was a “lamp”- I thought it was just a reflective type marker thing. Regardless, the wire definitely doesn’t run all the way to it, previous owner had the fender off so I guess that wire is just sitting there as it is in case I wanted to hook that light back up, which I don’t, so that’s one wire I can definitely get rid of.

    Thanks again.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt31266 View Post
    Hi all, I’m new here. I haven’t had a bike for 8-9yrs and have basically forgotten whatever little bit I used to know, now it’s kind of information overload!

    Kind of an intro, then some questions...Last bike was a ‘97 1200 sporty that I picked up essentially stock, and within a couple months, and with lots of help from a friend, I had a 4” stretch Ledsleds hardtail on it, stripped it down pretty lean, wiring was still kind of a mess. The most involved I really got other than taking an angle grinder to it when it still had a swing arm was putting a set of T-Bone’s 10” T-bars on it and cleaning up the handlebars a bit- had no idea what I was doing but I took the switches off, sliced open the wiring harness and started getting rid of whatever wires weren’t needed.

    Anyhow, moving on...I couldn’t put off the itch to ride any longer and picked up a ‘95 Heritage “nostalgia” FLSTN. It’s clean as hell and I like the black/grey paint. Before I found this particular bike I had visions of a fat front end, split tanks, foot boards, short and tight rear fender, lowered, etc. This thing is so clean looking I’m just going to leave it mostly as-is right now.

    Some issues and things I’d like to change sooner:

    Speedo isn’t working. I picked up a PDF version of the ‘95 manual yesterday and it shows the speedo on one page, as far as I can find in the 400ish pages I don’t even see info on how to remove the Speedo to get at the cable running into the bottom of it. I’ve been told to tighten that cable, and lube it while I’m at it. I’ve read somewhere that the other end of the cable attaches down on the front caliper, which I can clearly see. There’s also a wire running along with it that then goes through a hole in the front fender and just stops inside the top of the front fender- I have no idea what this wire is doing- it’s green/blue (depending on your eyes I guess) with a white stripe. Sporty had no Speedo and I gave no fucks- however with the split tanks and dash on this thing, I might as well have the Speedo and odometer operable while it’s sitting there- moreso for the odometer so I can keep a handle on mileage for maintenance purposes. I’m sure getting to this Speedo cable under the Speedo is easy- I can see it, I just don’t know how to get to it- help would be greatly appreciated. I’ve been googling this for a couple days, YouTube, etc, and I cannot find the answer as it applies to the “older” mechanical Speedo found on the ‘95.

    Moving onto my wishlist items- i’d Like to switch out the bars to Biltwell Chumps. It makes sense to me that while I’m doing that, I should clean up the bars and get rid of the unnecessary switches. It has no turn signals, the horn is present and switch works, but I don’t need a horn. It seems like I should be able to run a car style ignition switch and that takes care of the kill switch/start switch needed to start the bike. I just don’t remember how to do this stuff! Looking at the bar situation, it seems like I’m going to have to do either some reshaping of the stock clamp that holds onto the front master cylinder to make it look decent, or change that out completely- any thoughts or advice on that would be appreciated! The left side of course seems pretty straight forward.

    Another option, I think, instead of the car-style ignition switch, is just using the tank mounted switch and a start switch in the solenoid. This was simpler on a spotter with the ignition switch mounted on the neck. It’s the same concept, turn the key then hit the button on the starter, but to me at least, it seems a little more complicated on the dash mounted thing. I just don’t really remember how I did this on the sporty. I know I had no idea what I was doing, but when I was done pulling out wires, my headlight didn’t work! I managed to rat wire the headlight with a little toggle switch, but I’m not trying to have anything half-assed on this bike.

    As far as the bars, I’m also considering doing the Biltwell whiskey throttle with single cable just to make it look cleaner. I’m not sure if this is a no-brainer or if it is a better idea to run the two-cable version with the idle cable. I’m picturing being on the road and having the throttle stuck open, I suppose at that point you pull the clutch in and just get yourself to a stop and cut the engine off, but at that point I guess you’re needing help to get the thing home?

    Clearly, I don’t have much of an idea what I’m doing here!

    A ways in the future a bit I’d like to achieve the lowered look, and not sure the best way to do that- whether it’s progressive 442’s or whatever, or just using the spacers. At that point I would be ditching the stock fender and looking to run a shorter, slimmer fender, small solo seat, etc- but again that’s a ways off, but I’d be interested to hear any thoughts. I know there’s a ton of threads on some of this stuff, but I’m just kind of lost and can’t figure out what applies to my bike. It seems like the way to go is swingarm mounted fender, I’ve seen some kits for that but very mixed reviews on install, things not lining up, etc. I have zero fab skills, don’t really have access to anything to even go that route.

    Anyway, I’ll stop rambling. I know I can be long-winded. I hope this doesn’t come off as needing to be spoon fed, I’m willing to do the work, just don’t know where to start. Any comments, advice, direction, etc is hugely appreciated.

    Thank you all.
    Is the wire running through your front fender to illuminate an aftermarket fender light by any chance? I know my 95 heritage had that but the light had since been replaced with a chrome badge and only the wires remained. To get to the speedo you need to remove the dash panel strip and remove your tanks. After you do this you should be able to see all the bolts holding it on, its all pretty straight forward once you can see what you are looking at. I tore into mine last year and gave it a transformation probably along the lines of what is sounds like you are planning.

    I kept the fatbobs as I liked the look of them without all the dash and speedo and shit, plus everyone has sportster or peanut tanks nowadays and its boring as hell. Plus I like getting some miles in without having to stop for gas.

    I ditched the front brake disc and master and instead went for an old style springer drum brake I had on a previous chop. It tidies up the bar some and still stops ok for a drum. There is a bit of a gap where the old indicator /horn housing sat on the left side of the bars but you can get a switch delete filler that bolts in there. I think lowbrow sells em. It doesn't bother me enough to pay money for a part that doesn't do anything other than fill a gap.

    I run the biltwell whiskey and switched to single cable as per my previous bike. The second cable doesn't really do anything other than provide a safety precaution if for some reason the carb sticks open but if you were really bothered about safety you wouldn't ride a motorcycle I have no problem with the single cable throttle and it works fine.

    For lowering, you can get a set of lowering bolts for the factory shocks for about 30 bucks. No need to buy brand new progressives. Just use a press and take out the stock factory bolts and put the lowering ones in. Mine is lowered about 2.5" in the back along with a stock length springer. It likes to scrape a little around hard corners haha.

    I rewired my whole bike and ditched the factory control module under the seat. I run old fashioned points ignition to a 5ohm coil and put a car/hotrod style 3 position key switch on the left side which has a built in starter. My wiring is super simple and I just wired it so the headlight is always on the daytime setting. I rarely need to use the full beam as its bright enough. So no toggles anywhere. Its clean, its simple and it all works. If theres a problem I know where each wire or connection is and I can check them quickly. Good luck with your bike, I love mine.

    Here is mine after her transformation
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Sugarcubes; 02-28-2019 at 6:41 AM.

  5. #5
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    Sugarcubes- your bike is absolutely fucking awesome man! I think your abilities are way over my head right now, but I at least know what you’re talking about as far as the bolts in the shocks go! I don’t have access to a press, but I saw a YouTube video of someone doing just that, so at least I know what you’re talking about! I’m sure when it comes to that time I could figure out getting it done somewhere.

    Your bike is certainly very similar to the look I’d like to eventually achieve, looks extremely well done!

    Thanks

  6. #6

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    Getting access to a press is easy enough. Any half decent machine shop or indy will have one of these. If I couldn't find one I was going to go hillbilly and use my trolley jack and the hitch on my truck to compress it hahaha.

    don't be afraid to tear it down, no pre 2000 harley is rocket science and the evo is basically just a shovelhead with a better set of jugs. once you remove all the electrical spaghetti and cumbersome bodywork, the early evo softail frames are actually quite pretty and can be made to look real good with the right modifications.

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    Get a factory parts catalog to complement the service manual. The exploded views and ability to web search part numbers is totally worth it.

    Automotive machine shops have presses too.

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    Sugarcubes- i tried to send you a message the other day but my phone isn't updated enough or something, wouldn't go through. That or I sent it to you like 12x!

    I've found various wiring diagrams online, just when I think it seems simple enough I think about another piece of it and I'm confused. I'd like to eventually run the split tanks with no dash, which means getting rid of all that electrical crap under the dash- however, both sides of the tank have some "gouges" in the paint I guess where that stock pieces of leather has rubbed under the dash for 20+ years- so since I am not at a point where I want to see that paint blemish, nor am I ready to otherwise deal with it, I will keep the dash on for now. That being said, what's the easiest route to get rid of the electrical wires that run up both sides of my handlebars, just for the time being?

    I read somewhere that the kill switch just needs the loop closed permanently to bypass it- the wiring diagram in the manual seemed to only have one wire going to it- grey if I recall, but wherever I read about closing the loop said connect the wires together- does this mean connect it with the wire from the start switch? Or are there two wires to the kill switch that need to be connected to each other?

    The hi/low seems to be the only other thing I'd be interested in keeping, and I can definitely figure that out on my own.

    Front brake light switch- the only ways I can think of to keep this functional are 1) expensive remote master set up or 2) run that wire through the bars? It would seem silly to go through the trouble and still have that one wire hanging out. On my sportster I must've just said fuck it, my front brake won't activate the brake light- I don't particularly want to do that this time.

    Hand controls- it seems I'd be looking for 9/16" bore 1" bar master cylinder? I guess I'm looking at aftermarket here? Unless I just don't remember correctly, these seem to be put together a little differently than the sportster where I was able to get rid of the switch housing completely, I think I may have rounded some edges around the master cylinder/lever and gotten a "decent" look on the cheap- but the controls on this heritage seem like it might not be possible to achieve that- thoughts?

    This is all pretty complicated to me, I'm hoping someone can make this brain-dead clear to me, also somewhat considering just leaving it alone for a bit then seeing if the guy that helped out so much on the sportster has time, throw him a couple bucks to walk me through all this, to include completely re-wiring the bike. I'd like to do this myself but also think it might be smart to have someone that knows what they're doing over my shoulder.

    If anyone cares to see a pic of this thing I'll figure out how to post one up, if it's just another Evo heritage to you guys, I get that too!

    Thanks for the help!

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    I’m gonna bump this for a little help...

    All the bolts on my handlebar clamps and switch housing were seized so I spent a good deal of time getting that sorted out-

    After doing that I pulled the right side tank off and started getting rid of wires...

    I was going to run two toggles- one for kill switch and one for headlight hi/low, but not having luck finding the tiny toggles I’ve seen on some jap builds I decided I didn’t need the toggles. I just wired the headlight to be constant low beam, left the high beam wire in there in case I changed my mind later, tucked it all in a shrink tube and tucked it out of sight under the dash. Did the kill switch similarly- connected the wires to each other, shrink wrapped and tucked them away. I left the brake switch lines long enough (and then some) to reach the bottom of the triple trees, shrink wrapped and tucked back under the tank.

    So- I want to run a pressure switch for the front brake, mounted under the bottom triple tree. As I understand it I can run a T connector (I’ve seen one with a loop on it that should bolt right on)- then one end runs up to the handlebar, other end runs down to the brake. SO- I get the concept, but don’t know where to go from here. Right now the bike has a hard metal line running from the master down the side of the bars, then goes to a soft black line, then turns metal again under the triple trees, then goes back to a soft line to the brake. The bike has 10” Z bars on it now which I will be switching out probably this week.

    I’d like to run all this with none of that metal line, all soft black lines.

    I ordered a Biltwell whiskey throttle, Chumps bars, grips, etc.

    I’ve searched for a kit, but I’m either not putting the right magic words in, or it’s iust something I need to piece together.

    Any help would be appreciated!

    Next mods are lowering and possibly putting stock-type upper fork slider covers on, it’s got fork gaitors on now, kinda on the fence about them. I’m buying a motorcycle jack next week. Other than that, I’m gonna leave this thing alone probably until the winter.


    THANKS!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt31266 View Post
    I’d like to run all this with none of that metal line, all soft black lines.
    How do you plan on doing that??? You need the metal line to hook the things........

    The metal lines are there for a reason......

    Why run a front brake at all?????? It doesn't get any cleaner than that..........

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    How do you plan on doing that??? You need the metal line to hook the things........

    The metal lines are there for a reason......

    Why run a front brake at all?????? It doesn't get any cleaner than that..........
    That’s very helpful man, thank you!

    So we are clear, I understand there needs to be a metal thing connected to the big rectangle metal thing sitting on the right side handlebar and another metal thing connected to the other metal thing on the wheel that makes the bike stop and a T-Shaped metal thing approximately in the middle of those two metal things. Everything else I’d like to be flexible black stuff, not a mismatch of hard metal line and flexible line.

    And I’d like a front brake because I know I’m not cool enough yet to not have one.

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    Your local industrial hydraulics shop can make any custom black lines you want and fittings are inexpensive.

    I don't bother with front brake light switches because one on the rear brake is more than sufficient. Do you not use your rear brake on every stop where you apply the front? Bizarre if true but to each their own. No front switch is simpler, less money and much cleaner since you can use a single brake hose and no hard lines.

    And I’d like a front brake because I know I’m not cool enough yet to not have one.
    I like effective front brakes because the idiots cutting me off don't care how cool I'd like to look. If in doubt, perform emergency stops with and without and mark the difference.

    All the bolts on my handlebar clamps and switch housing were seized so I spent a good deal of time getting that sorted out-
    Anti-seize the threads on your new hardware. Dry threads are evil because they encourage corrosion.

    Every HD with a Denso starter needs a pushbutton solenoid cover as backup. Inspect the solenoid contacts while you have the cover off. Contacts are the main reason for starter replacements and kits are cheap and easy to install.

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    Quote Originally Posted by
    Do you not use your rear brake on every stop where you apply the front? Bizarre if true but to each their own.
    I like effective front brakes because the idiots cutting me off don't care how cool I'd like to look. If in doubt, perform emergency stops with and without and mark the difference.

    Yes Sir, That's great advice..... On the bikes I have that have a front brake I use both front and rear every time I stop..... Because in a panic stop what you normally do day in and day out that's exactly what you do when you panic......

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    Eh, maybe I don’t need the switch? I just figured if I was doing a new line, I might as well do it in a way that incorporated one. It certainly makes a new line easy as fuck not running one. I’m almost positive I can’t keep what’s on there now on it, I think the 10” of hardline coming off the master only doesn’t look like complete shit because it’s running down the side of the straight Z bar, but I’m imagining it looking like shit on the round curves of the Chumps. I wouldn’t mind being wrong on that though too!

    Thanks guys.

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