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  1. #1

    Default Hardtail Shaft Drive Axle question

    Hi guys, great site! My question is about adding 3/16 hardtail axle brackets. I don't want to just tie in to the shock mount but want to do a true hardtail. How does one get the extra width you need on the axle to add a 3/16 plate on each side to locate the axle.

    (Also, when these guys bolt to the lower shock mount only, how to they get that assembly apart when/if needed? Wouldn't they have to pry the hardtail bars apart to unbolt the shaft case?)
    Last edited by GSBobber1980; 08-20-2017 at 6:21 AM. Reason: Spelling

  2. #2
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    Default

    You're going to need to post some pics. I don't think we are speaking the same language.
    If something is "bolted on" can't you simply unbolt it when necessary?
    Do you intend to ditch the shocks and install struts?

  3. #3

    Default

    (Photobucket sucks, I'll have to find another host)

    Like all Motorcycles like my GS 850L, there's an axle. However shaft drive bikes have the lower shock bolt on the gear drive cover and it's what most hardtail shaft-drives conversions use not the more common axle plate mounting like other hardtails.

    I want to use a kit such as the one from Deville Cycles and am not sure if there's room to add the slotted axle plates that chain-drive bikes use.

    The axle doesn't seem like there's room to add the more conventional 3/16 axle plates like those that come in the pre-made kits.

    Not sure if I'm making this clear enough.
    Last edited by GSBobber1980; 08-20-2017 at 7:07 AM. Reason: Grammar

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sky View Post
    If something is "bolted on" can't you simply unbolt it when necessary?
    Do you intend to ditch the shocks and install struts?
    No struts, the upper shock bolt will be gone. The engine-cradle ends of the downtubes will be welded and most guys I've seen just bolt the other end to the lower shock stud on the housing, not the actual axle. That secondary question I had referred to not being able to separate those downtubes. Even though they're bolted on, they're bolted to a welded stud not a bolt you can remove as the upper is welded and immovable

  5. #5

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    I want to do this as opposed to the following picture:


    Last edited by GSBobber1980; 08-20-2017 at 8:07 AM.

  6. #6

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    I'm seeing the shock stud is threaded into the housing thereby allowing it to be removed for tire changes etc. I'm assuming it's the same on the right side (at work, can't see it first hand) as opposed to the uppers which are welded in place.

    Please correct me if I'm missing something.

    So assuming I'm correct, what do you guys think about just one (each side) tube off the engine cradle to the lower shock stud holding up the entire rear end like I've seen a lot of?

  7. #7
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    You could...
    Cut away the right side of the swingarm.
    Use just one axleplate. On the right side.
    Use the shock stud on the left.
    And no bottom rail. So the wheel can swing down for tire changes.

    Don't pry, or plan to pry anything.
    Spacers are way easier to cut/make than axles.

    Part of what makes chain drive hardtails look so good is the simplicity, the drop and the stretch.
    Hard to get that stretch with a shafty...

    The only really neat shaft drive hardtails I've seen, they ditched the shaft housing and extended the shaft itself.
    One was a BMW and the other a Honda of some sort.

  8. #8

    Default

    I cut the spacers down taking off the width of the combined total of the axle plates. I had to chop off the shock mount stud as it wouldn't come out but it looked fine. You can lengthen the shaft if you do it properly with the right material, making sure its straight and balanced or title vibrate like a bastardised harley.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9

    Default

    So you think there's enough spacer material to take down to allow for a 3/16 spacer on each side of the axle?

  10. #10

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    This is my GS. Huge stock tank isn't staying, I was just fooling around with placement.

    It sits low enough for me and it's long enough to look good imo, just think it needs hardtail bars and a solo seat.

    Picture it with straight pipes, Sportster tank and a chopped rear fender as well.

    Opinions?



    "IMG_7472
    Last edited by GSBobber1980; 08-20-2017 at 2:30 PM.

  11. #11

    Default

    How much axle space have you got to play with on the brake side? I had quite a lot (over an inch due to a massive spacer) but it was a different bike. Alternatively you can make an axle from two original axles, cut and weld them together to the length you require so you've got two threaded ends. I ended up doing that to mine, worked a treat.

  12. #12

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    I'll have to get home and check and report back

  13. #13

    Default

    The problem I see with hardtail bars is your putting a lot of stress on a fixture thats meant to be rubber mounted and sprung. I have heard of the mounts sheering off with solid struts but I haven't seen one first hand. You wont get the look of a true hardtail with the strut bars and a lot of time you wont get a seat to fit comfortably either, but some love it for the ease of not making a hardtail frame and the option of swapping back later on if desired.
    Personally, from experience, I'd chop the whole back end section off and start again.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pattman View Post
    The problem I see with hardtail bars is your putting a lot of stress on a fixture thats meant to be rubber mounted and sprung. I have heard of the mounts sheering off with solid struts but I haven't seen one first hand. You wont get the look of a true hardtail with the strut bars and a lot of time you wont get a seat to fit comfortably either, but some love it for the ease of not making a hardtail frame and the option of swapping back later on if desired.
    Personally, from experience, I'd chop the whole back end section off and start again.
    Again, not doing strut bars in place of shocks. I hate the look.

    The back 1/2 IS coming off. Just asking if the top hardtail bars can be mounted to the lower shock studs because I'd rather attach them to axle plates and consequently to the axle

  15. #15

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    So like this:

    IMG_7436
    IMG_7442
    upload images fast

  16. #16

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    The middle (second) picture illustrates my original question

    IMG_7437
    IMG_7463
    IMG_7489
    upload images fast

  17. #17

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    P.S., 99% of the shaft drive bobbers I've seen and really liked the looks of have been unstretched bikes.

    Including Jasonisdeco's Intruders

  18. #18

    Default

    The only way I see getting the mount off if you go the way of the pics is unbolting the hub from the swing arm as they are all incorporated apart from mine then you can remove the wheel. I did contemplate designing mine that way but it was easier for me to get the look I wanted by removing the swingarm completely.
    If it helps here is a run through of how I built mine. http://viragotechforum.com/viewtopic...ac4e0e7703bfc7

  19. #19

    Default

    Dude, one of your pictures is one I used above for an example of what I want to do!

  20. #20

    Default

    Now that I'm home, let me show you what I meant by having enough room for 2@3/16 axle plates on this axle:

    IMG_7520
    IMG_7521

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