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  1. #1
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    Default Frame Jig and fxst build.

    building a frame jig for softail . Here are some pics of the progress so far. wish I would have taken more pics but I will get some more when I get going one the frame. I will say I am now regretting the choice I made to go with the 2x3 tubing. I guess when I was in the planing stages the idea of it being more of a universal jig was pretty appealing. the next one I will definitely just get a good piece of H or I beam and and have it surface ground and start from there. But other then a few thing I really am happy with how it turned out and can't wait to put it to use. I got the hardtail kit from Fab kevin and it looks great!
    Last edited by xMPRx; 11-22-2016 at 3:38 AM.

  2. #2
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    [IMG][/IMG]

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    Last edited by xMPRx; 11-22-2016 at 3:41 AM.

  3. #3
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    [IMG][/IMG]

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  4. #4
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    [IMG][/IMG]

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  5. #5
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    Well damn. That's awesome

  6. #6
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    nice!

  7. #7

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    Sweet! Any more progress on the frame? Keeping the wheelbase the same?

  8. #8
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    Thanks for posting this! I was curious about the tubing and had heard from someone local that it's hard to find any without twist and straight......

    I really want an old mill table, just bolt jigs to the t-slots and don-- but haven't had any luck. The other option is huge 4" thick grating welded oc, it's going to be scrapped at an old hospital being torn down, but that might [is] be really heavy. I know someone with a beam that's been surface ground but he probably isn't selling. Anyway it's on my list, when the cash comes so will the tools.

  9. #9
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    ya I checked out the tubing pretty well before I brought it home and its actually very straight but the idea behind this style is to weld flat bar onto the 2x3 and then weld the 2 rails together with the 2x3 clamped between so any fixture can be made off of the tubing and slid between the rails and be centered. my issue was that when the rails were gaped enough to just barley slide the tubing in the middle wiggled a few thousandths of an inch but at the top of the neck fixture and even the axle plate fixture that play increased to much considering I was able to stay within .003 on all my tolerances on my fixtures that I machined. so i just welded the neck upright in place and made a base for my axle fixture and alined it all with a laser.

    Quote Originally Posted by seaking View Post
    Thanks for posting this! I was curious about the tubing and had heard from someone local that it's hard to find any without twist and straight......

    I really want an old mill table, just bolt jigs to the t-slots and don-- but haven't had any luck. The other option is huge 4" thick grating welded oc, it's going to be scrapped at an old hospital being torn down, but that might [is] be really heavy. I know someone with a beam that's been surface ground but he probably isn't selling. Anyway it's on my list, when the cash comes so will the tools.

  10. #10
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    Not to many updates I had to go back to work on my tug boat so ill be out for 30 days. But I'm spacing the axle plates at 9.25 as recommended by fab kevin. due to some thin walled rusted tubing issues I decided to splice in the upper tubing pieces a litter farther up and tie them into the seat post area. they fit well and will be able to make a couple nice small gussets to tie everything together.

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  11. #11
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    The other option is huge 4" thick grating welded oc, it's going to be scrapped at an old hospital being torn down, but that might [is] be really heavy.
    I'd get the grating whatever you do. That kind of spare metal finds a project sooner or later.

    I know someone with a beam that's been surface ground but he probably isn't selling.
    You can probably have your own metal Blanchard ground reasonably. If you don't already have metal you can do what most machine shops do for larger jobs and order metal Blanchard ground on one side. My pro machinist bros do that often because the vast majority of surface grinders are unsuitable for large/long work.

    I'd contact scrap yards about milling tables and offer a tip to whoever finds you a mill table or scrap machine since scrap prices are in the toilet right now.

  12. #12
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    A lot of builders would kill for what you have now. Good work and if you get something even better, please post it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ncmc47 View Post
    A lot of builders would kill for what you have now. Good work and if you get something even better, please post it.

    thanks man! I have a couple really cool things I'm going to be working on when I get home. I will be uploading for sure. I am an engineer on a tug boat, I use to work on a 400 foot fishing trawler and had my own machine shop and always was making really cool stuff. but now I'm on a 100' tug boat and its extremely boring.


    I found this picture on instagram. I have really not found many people doing conversions on softail frames. and I'm not sure why? but i really like how this one is cut all the way back to just the back bone and the seat post. I think I will go this route.

    [IMG][/IMG]

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by xMPRx View Post
    thanks man! I have a couple really cool things I'm going to be working on when I get home. I will be uploading for sure. I am an engineer on a tug boat, I use to work on a 400 foot fishing trawler and had my own machine shop and always was making really cool stuff. but now I'm on a 100' tug boat and its extremely boring.


    I found this picture on instagram. I have really not found many people doing conversions on softail frames. and I'm not sure why? but i really like how this one is cut all the way back to just the back bone and the seat post. I think I will go this route.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    That is rad! I have a rigid ST, my buddy (xnewmanx) did basically all of the hardtail and we talked about getting rid of the stamped section but mainly due to time constraints for needing the bike to be done we did not. We also talked about ditching the entire backbone and moving the neck up enough to run a straight back bone, but that didn't happen for the same reason.

    Anyways, stoked to see the progress of this build, looking awesome so far.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by woz View Post
    That is rad! I have a rigid ST, my buddy (xnewmanx) did basically all of the hardtail and we talked about getting rid of the stamped section but mainly due to time constraints for needing the bike to be done we did not. We also talked about ditching the entire backbone and moving the neck up enough to run a straight back bone, but that didn't happen for the same reason.
    Anyways, stoked to see the progress of this build, looking awesome so far.
    ya I was thinking about cutting out the back bone and then going with a straight piece. But then I thought we'll help if I'm doing that I might as well bring it up an inch or so. But I really just want to get it back together and ride. I still have my fxr to rip but I want to get this frame done and back on the road and take my time on a frame from scratch. Which I'm sure is going to be a long process learning all that.

  16. #16
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    Well i was able to make a little progress on the bike. working on tug boats 30 days on 30 days off use to be the perfect schedule but now with an 11 month old baby its pretty easy to spend most of my time hanging with that little dude.


    so I was using a a Fabkevin kit and I decided go a little different route and tie the wishbone tubes a little higher up and eliminate all the crap around the seat post.
    So I needed up using the lower pieces that came with kevin kit and bending some new wishbones.

    After bending I wanted to make a way to get accurate notches, the angel was pretty steep and I couldn't get the piece into the mill so I made it work in my lathe,

    .750 6061 to bolt to the compound rest T slots

    [IMG][/IMG]

    turned and threaded a little piece to mount a hole say and then be able to use it in my 1" collet

    [IMG][/IMG]

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  17. #17
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    really helped when bending the wishbone tubes to lay everything out and get the exact angles.

    [IMG][/IMG]
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    I love this tool. its just a block that holds a 5c collet. you can use it for squaring round stock in a mill or indexing by 90* if you wanted. but it also worked great for keeping the cross tube notches.

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  18. #18
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    everything bent and ready weld.

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    everything welded up.

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    Last edited by xMPRx; 03-06-2017 at 11:09 AM.

  19. #19
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    so everything turned out great! now just need to figure out the stance. Oh ya and here are a few pics of the mini floor board I machined for my FXR. I try to spend a little time on that to because thats most likely what ill be ridding to born free.

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    Last edited by xMPRx; 03-06-2017 at 11:31 AM.

  20. #20
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    That's a good-looking frame jig. What was your reasoning for regretting going with 2x3 tubing? That it takes up more space than going with an I-beam? The increased weight? I'm working on a design for a universal jig myself.

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