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  1. #21
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    Yes, im just gonna ride mine until it shakes apart. 😀 There is observable radial play in both crank bearings so probably wont be long. Still have excellent oil pressure though so who knows. May still be mid-life. Gonna talk to the triumph guru about it when i pick up the front sprocket, he's piled up in the middle of 6-7 engine rebuilds this winter, had almost an assembly line last time i was at the shop, only unit triumphs and bsa's. Maybe this can go another few years before scheduling in a crank overhaul.

  2. #22
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    Fit a nice big tire, 2"wider overall.
    And cut out notches for the 21t sprocket.
    Should be able to maintain highway speeds at moderate revs now!

    Gearbox is ready for final assembly soon.

  3. #23
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    Got the gearbox bolted up last night, and the transmission almost done. Still gotta find a 125 links long 530 chain, finish altering all the fender and sissy bar mounts to fit the bigger tire. And mod the battery box to also house the boyer ignition. Then i can test out the new gearing, still winter here for a few months so no rush.

  4. #24
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    We have a break in the cold and nasty weather here and its a few degrees above freezing so i took it out for a short blast and man does it feel nicer with this gearing. No more high revs to keep up with traffic, finally its where i want it gearing wise. Did not get a chance to put big loads on 3rd gear but pulled to where it used to slip out and voila, nothing. Just steady pull. Now i guess is the time to take apart the top end to fix the last oil leaks..

  5. #25
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    Might be redundant to point out, but there is service bulletins (circa 1966-67) on the trans problems and how they updated the cam plate and other bits to deal with these problems. Looks like your cam plate already has the stiffening brace on it, so probably just normal wear and tear.
    You can find the service bulletins on the net, but if you cant, chances are I can email them as I have them on digital format as well. (Also some pertinent ones on the pressure relief valve and oil return you might want to look at )
    #2) RPM,, yes, without frequent overhauls and or high zoot engine materials, such high RPMS means your parts are not long for this world. The factory considered a motor worn out past its metal fatigue service life after ONE 500 mile race for the Unit 500 twins. Asking old alloy rods to live this long, let alone those RPMS is rather optimistic. Personally,, I try to gear them so on a rebuilt motor with reconditioned original parts I consider 4500 RPM and possible occasional 5000k blips to be the top end.
    If you are serious about running a 500 unit twin hard, then heres my formula,, Late model Daytona motor (68-73) Carillo rods, and entire assy dynamically balanced. Light weight forged pistons. Kibblewight Blackdiamond stainless valves with Ampco 45 Bronze guides. Late model daytona head is good but some prefer the early hemi heads if you can find the pistons to run in them. Use the late T140 4 valve oil pump or if sustained high RPM then run the rotary oil pump. Aftermarket full flow oil filter, mod the top end oiling, and a good ignition unit. (Power Arc with VOES switch is best)
    On the gearbox main seal, You can segment the clutch pushrod with a ball bearing and resize it, You can segment the bronze bushing in the end of the mainshaft and use Nitrile o rings between segements. This keeps GB Oil from migrating down the mainshaft. Dry clutches dont like it. Nortons have a seal kit they use. A guy named Dyno Dave Comeau sells them.
    I do admire you guys thrashing on them and keeping these on the road,, good to see.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougtheinternetannoyance123 View Post
    Might be redundant to point out, but there is service bulletins (circa 1966-67) on the trans problems and how they updated the cam plate and other bits to deal with these problems. Looks like your cam plate already has the stiffening brace on it, so probably just normal wear and tear.
    You can find the service bulletins on the net, but if you cant, chances are I can email them as I have them on digital format as well. (Also some pertinent ones on the pressure relief valve and oil return you might want to look at )
    #2) RPM,, yes, without frequent overhauls and or high zoot engine materials, such high RPMS means your parts are not long for this world. The factory considered a motor worn out past its metal fatigue service life after ONE 500 mile race for the Unit 500 twins. Asking old alloy rods to live this long, let alone those RPMS is rather optimistic. Personally,, I try to gear them so on a rebuilt motor with reconditioned original parts I consider 4500 RPM and possible occasional 5000k blips to be the top end.
    If you are serious about running a 500 unit twin hard, then heres my formula,, Late model Daytona motor (68-73) Carillo rods, and entire assy dynamically balanced. Light weight forged pistons. Kibblewight Blackdiamond stainless valves with Ampco 45 Bronze guides. Late model daytona head is good but some prefer the early hemi heads if you can find the pistons to run in them. Use the late T140 4 valve oil pump or if sustained high RPM then run the rotary oil pump. Aftermarket full flow oil filter, mod the top end oiling, and a good ignition unit. (Power Arc with VOES switch is best)
    On the gearbox main seal, You can segment the clutch pushrod with a ball bearing and resize it, You can segment the bronze bushing in the end of the mainshaft and use Nitrile o rings between segements. This keeps GB Oil from migrating down the mainshaft. Dry clutches dont like it. Nortons have a seal kit they use. A guy named Dyno Dave Comeau sells them.
    I do admire you guys thrashing on them and keeping these on the road,, good to see.
    Thats one hell of an answer! 😀 to both mine and torchs thread i suppose?
    I have geared mine now so it sits at some 90kph at 4krpm. But it feels really solid up to 6-6500, then the tiny sharps tingly vibes begin which i dont like for more than a few minutes. Dont really mind revving this a bit even with used stock rods. But 9-10000 rpm? Ive never heard how this sounds at that stage and i dont plan to find out 😁
    The old race engines usually blew up and never finished, except the few who won races, they were experimenting with everything in the end to make them tougher, last engines even had through bolts as they started cracking cylinders in half!
    Obviously we dont want that so better to keep revs and power output on the sober side of things. Its gonna blow eventually, just a question of when😁

  7. #27
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    Wouldnt mind reading the service bulletins to see if i missed anything, but yes gearboxes were designed for a 350 to begin with. Mine is the stronger later type and it was just very worn in places.

  8. #28
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    PM me a email addy and Ill see if the files will email, if not the Factory service bulletins ARE on the net. You can just read the 500 twin applicable if you like but they ALL are worth a read. Very educational. I have a full set going from 1950 up into the 1970s. There was also a US west coast version and a slightly different East coast version. I used to sell them on the FeeBay but a Aussie (They are ALL criminals you know! ) violated my TOS and reprints on his CD, Fukker, so I offer up his versions of digital files to any who ask.
    As to RPMS that is a whole box of spiders in itself.
    I was part of a 3 man team who developed and built a Norton Land speed racer, "Sir Eddys rocket" Sadly,, Sir Eddy passed away when the project was nearly complete. I helped his kid sort things out but he took the ball and ran with it. It holds the 500cc pushrod overhead valve class record and partial streamliner too.
    270 degree crank and Mid 50s HP and very light weight. It was originally designed to run 12,000 RPM and we nearly did it.
    But this is a very long topic. Bottom line is Eddys kid enlisted another guy who helped make it happen. But he has what is called a "Spintron" and uses stop motion and high speed cameras hooked to a mock up of the motor and drivetrain. (There are videos!) Basically,, if you SEE what actually happens past 5000 rpm it will make your cinamon hole (Ballon Knot) Pucker so bad you wont pass gas for a week.
    (Bouncy Bouncy) Your pushrods are also doing their best impression of the rubber band man can dance. Increase rigidity and weight and the problems crop up elsewhere.
    Believe me.... This was a 10 year project but its in the books now, and motor is being rebuilt. Theres more HP under the bonnet and it can go faster but it take some serious shit to get there.
    Guys..... dont over think this. Triumph had a good idea what they were doing and just run the fukkers as designed and be happy. They do REALLY well in that mid range torque pocket. 3500 to 5000. Dyno will tell you the same. So does my calibrated ass cheeks. Twist the wick and gear it right.

  9. #29
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    We are getting sideways off the original topic, But to illustrate my point about RPMs... Here is a video of the bike on the dyno. Keep in mind it no longer has a traditional crank, rods or pistons. (Crank is a specially built 270 degree crank-Like a ducati, carillo rods and JE Forged pistons plus some other really special shit.)
    By the time this video was shot, I was not really involved anymore. My part was all about working with Eddy while he was alive. I think its great his kid got it to the salt, but its a whole different ball game from where we were. Some I am in agreement with, and some I strongly disagree with. But if you look at the front fender, my name is on there because a lot of the parts and ground work were from my work.
    But the point is... The bike did it! It now holds the record.
    See: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sqI82yt6Bk

  10. #30
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    So i found out that whoever spoked my rear wheel probably was drunk and did a dangerously shitty job. Some spokes are only held by a couple of threads and all spokes are wrong lengths and have been cut down.. new spokes on the way. Good thing winters are long..

  11. #31
    SamHain
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    That's a good thing to catch

  12. #32
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    Yes indeed, first it was just the one spoke that let go of the threads when i checked tension. Then i looked closer and the rim is rotated in relation to the hub so all spokes are cut and wrong lengths. Will be nice to have a solid rebuilt rear tire now that i can actually cruise at highway speeds.

  13. #33
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    Been riding this for a few hundred miles now and third feels really solid, no amount of thrashing pops it out. Only negative thing is its almost overgeared with a 21 front sprocket, cruising at 100km/h in third, changing up to 4th at 120 otherwise revs are too low! Could use a fairing to reach top speed.. i can feel the engine not making enough hp to push through the air at that gearing
    Ordered a 20t sprocket way back but hasnt arrived, would probably suit this bike better since im not trying for 140mph with it anyway!

  14. #34
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    Somehow it managed to completely empty the gearbox of oil in a few hundred miles.. makes me wonder if i even filled it after the rebuild!😁 no trace of gearbox oil in the tranny.. no leaks anywhere. A Turner mystery i guess. Topped it up, now just gotta get some miles on it.
    100% certain the bush isnt installed the wrong way around.

  15. #35
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    Cold ass 300km ride, metal festival this weekend.. https://www.instagram.com/p/BU1hWpOl_p6/

  16. #36
    SamHain
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    Lookin good. I need to get on mine, buried workin on a shovel. Aimin to make a trip out your way next year.

  17. #37
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    You coming to sweden/scandinavia? Cool, not too bad here in the summer. Last night was 200 kms, half in pouring rain. Bike did excellent; im fucked! ��

  18. #38
    SamHain
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    Nice, I'll have to try to keep the revs down on mine when I get around to putting it back together. I had a catastrophic failure every 100 miles or so. Made a 150 mile round trip once.

    Yeah just gettin started on the plans, want to check out Gothenburg. Was aimin for right about this time of year, sounds like the weather might not be so good yet.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by SamHain View Post
    Nice, I'll have to try to keep the revs down on mine when I get around to putting it back together. I had a catastrophic failure every 100 miles or so. Made a 150 mile round trip once.

    Yeah just gettin started on the plans, want to check out Gothenburg. Was aimin for right about this time of year, sounds like the weather might not be so good yet.
    Thats exactly how mine was when i bought it over ten years ago, i just had to break and strengthen and improve until stuff holds up, i just converted to miles, it did 300 miles last weekend.
    Really hard to start today so i guess valves need checked.. 😃
    Last time i did even half that distance the crank bush was shot!
    Yea weather is really unstable all summer and every few years we get a full blast 30'celsius heat streak for a month or so.
    Gothenburg is cool, big bike scene. Will definitely hook you up on all the local bike meets and you get to ride this ratty chop here as well if you come over. Got a thruxton and xs750 as well👍
    Two guys in my shop build harleys as well and a third guy on his way back from stockholm right now but very mixed bike wise as you will see.

  20. #40
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    So, the 20t front sprocket that was on back order a few months ago was lost in the mail, just got a word from the supplier that he sent a new one. Wont change it until this winter when the tranny comes apart for inspection. Will be cool to see how everything has held up in there.

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