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  1. #1
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    Default Neck Bearing Race installation HELP

    Whats up guys, I have a 1990 Harley FXR. Its been Handling weird so i jacked up the front end and found out the bearings have a huge flat spot. Im going to school at mmi for harley mechanics in orlando so i know how to replace them its just i have to do it in a parking lot of my apartment. So to save time and money i was wondering if any of you have any good ways to remove and press the races in without the tool. Any help or ideas would be appreciated

    thanks

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    A hammer a flat chisel and a big socket.......

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    ill try it but i figured that would damage the races

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    Another recent poster whose name I forget used an expanding concrete anchor to pull races. It's a brilliant idea I'll be using too.

    I'd use this style:

    http://www.sierraanchors.com/double.jpg

    When you finish the course a personal review would be very cool.
    Last edited by farmall; 09-24-2016 at 12:39 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by FTW219 View Post
    ill try it but i figured that would damage the races

    Why would you need to hit the race????????

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    Why would you need to hit the race????????
    His bearing install-fu may be insufficient.

    You can beat the fuck out of old races so they don't matter. If you can get behind the race with a chisel or punch, have at it. I kinda like the anchor idea since those fuckers expand firmly and offer a nice bolt head to beat on, but they aren't mandatory.

    New races can be installed by taking the FLAT side of a large socket, a piece of flat aluminum or steel, or any suitable load spreader then holding that against the race while you whack the socket etc with a big fucking hammer.

    Never hit parts you care about directly with a steel hammer. Collect all the brass hammers and random hunks of brass you can for parts protection. Cheap brass hammers are fine. Brass is expendable.

    A brass hammer is not ideal for installing races because they have narrow edges which will fuck up the hammer face, but a few taps will start them. If the hammer is all ya have, git 'er dun!

    Bearing driver sets are nice but even machinists use sockets because there are many more socket sizes than bearing driver sizes. There's usually room to take a 1/2" drive socket and flip it on an extension to use as a bearing driver. Brass hammer preferred for bashing the extension since they mushroom easier than sockets, but tools are cheap and ya need to ride.

    For anyone who says "but I don't hit my tools with a hammer" I say "I protect the part and if my tools lose the battle I'll get better tools. I've been hammering parts (properly as far as the part is concerned) for a long time and haven't fucked up many sockets. Maybe ten since the late '70s including splitting a few with gear pullers.
    Last edited by farmall; 09-24-2016 at 5:15 PM.

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    The FRX's don't use a neck cup...
    The bearing race sits in the frame, must be pulled from...

    Jim's has a nice tool for doing this job....



    If your good with a welder, can run a bead around the I.D. of the race, that will shrink the race....

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    That's the ideal way to do it, but in a parking lot with few resources I'd use cruder methods since there is some race "lip" to strike (which is the same lip the Jims puller grabs).

    Welding is VERY nice for races stuck by corrosion, and ya can tack a hunk of scrap inside a race for bashing with a hammer and bar.

    Of course since OP is training to be a mechanic he could buy the puller now instead of later, but seventy bucks might matter if money is tight.

    I notice an OTC neck race tool that comments say doesn't quite fit HD neck races on Amazon. OTC has "gone Taiwan" and their new tools are shit compared to the old ones. I found that out by ordering a slide hammer bearing puller expecting it to work with my old OTC attachments. If you are equipping a shot buy the old OTC stuff off Ebay.

    For those who like to pull races into place, don't buy this thing:

    https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4892-Stee...0MN624GCQKW4WB

    Just buy some Grade 5 or 8 allthread, washers and nuts from an industrial supply. Unlike the soft, shitty hardware store allthread the industrial allthread is slick and nice to work with.
    Last edited by farmall; 09-24-2016 at 5:51 PM.

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    Could buy a can of ......

    Click image for larger version. 

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    .....Parking Lot Approved.....

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    Take it to the MMI parking lot and have them use your bike to teach the other students how to do it.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadsdenguy View Post
    Take it to the MMI parking lot and have them use your bike to teach the other students how to do it.
    Was thinking the same - ask your lecturer if you can use it as a class topic/demo

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    Quote Originally Posted by

    For anyone who says "but I don't hit my tools with a hammer" I say "I protect the part and if my tools lose the battle I'll get better tools. I've been hammering parts (properly as far as the part is concerned) for a long time and haven't fucked up many sockets. Maybe ten since the late '70s including splitting a few with gear pullers.
    I'm with you on this........I haven't bought or replaced any tool in at least 25 years............. If you pay attention to what your doing you won't fuck up your tools..........

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    You can rent or buy a race and seal installation tool at auto zone, makes this job a breeze. I would purchase it, I have found this kit to come in handy on a dozen different occasions.



    I just did the races on my 99 sporty in no time with that tool. As everyone else mentioned, beat the old ones out w a hammer and chisel or drift. I start the new ones with a big hammer and a solid block of wood, and finish them out w the tool.

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