CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
  1. #1
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    118

    Default New rear drum seems too tight, smoking a ton, '51 Panhead

    So after shredding all the bolts off myt last rear mechanical drum on my panhead, got a new drum & backing plate kit from Vtwin, installed it, lever is relazed, not lulliung, but for the first 50 miles it's been super sticky when pushing the bike around, and when running it, they get crazy hot and are smoking up a storm, which only means it's feeling "brake-on", while trunning. It still stops, but not crazy tight stop, but I'm not trying to make the backing plate lever too tight in case that will make it worse.

    Any help? running a stock & new rear axle & spacer kit, so nothing chopped out and incorrect.

    Thank you for any help!

  2. #2
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,454

    Default

    They are ALWAYS to tight...... They never fit right at least that's what I have found........ They have to be ground down and arched...... If you haven't warped your drum already you need to fix it before you do......

  3. #3
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    118

    Default

    Hey Tattoo... the pads need to be ground down, or the drum needs to be put on a lathe and ground down? Thanks buddy

  4. #4
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,454

    Default

    I sent you a PM back........

  5. #5
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    117

    Default Diagram For Arcing Brake Shoes

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	89 
Size:	45.3 KB 
ID:	71640I found this little gem of info in a Kick-Start M/C Parts Catalog. Hope it helps. Pull it apart, arc the brake linings as per diagram, scuff the faces of linings to remove any glazing, reassemble. Keep the axle nut and sleeve nut slightly loose along with the pivot stud. Have someone stand on the brake pedal then tighten pivot stud, sleeve nut, then axle. Try pushing it around. Any drag now, you warped the new drum.
    Last edited by Pynzo; 08-22-2016 at 6:58 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    118

    Default

    Hey Pynzo, this is great, thanks! How much does it say to grind off, 1-3/4" from one side and 5/8" from the other? it's really small shot and can't quite make out the handwriting.

    Also, even off the bike, the backing plate and drum seem not super smooth spinning, like slight metal on metal from the lips touching, and some resistance, but maybe that's somewhat normal?

    Thanks!

  7. #7
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    117

    Default

    Yes 5/8" up top and 1-3/4" at bottom.
    Nothing should rub, it's gotta spin free and easy. Find where it's rubbing and file or grind down the high spots. V Twin chrome parts ALWAYS need hand fitting. Never fails.
    Last edited by Pynzo; 08-24-2016 at 10:50 AM.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    252

    Default

    Wow. I learn something new everyday...thanks

  9. #9
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    118

    Default

    This is black, not chrome, and agreed not much they make is 100% fitting properly. Thanks for the responses, yes, learning daily, even at my age...hope to never stop

  10. #10
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    118

    Default

    After more inspection it seems to be rubbing from the metal backing of the brake pads on the backing plate to the bottom inside of the drum. I'm using all correct spacers and parts, no chopper quick fixes.


  11. #11
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    117

    Default Kick-Start M/C Parts Catalog

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	image.jpg 
Views:	26 
Size:	46.9 KB 
ID:	71673I just called this guy and he's still in business. Send him $5 at the address on the cover and order his catalog. Tons of useful info on old iron. You'll be glad you did-

  12. #12
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    118

    Default

    I will 100%, I promise, but in the mean time....... any suggestions?

  13. #13
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    1,208

    Default

    Double check that the drum lugs are properly torqued and the drum is seating all the way onto the hub. I had a similar problem on a juice drum.


    The axle sleeve that goes inside the drum is responsible for setting the offset of the backing plate/shoes from the drum but it sits against the bearings and step on the axle, so the offset is actually from the hub. My point being, if the drum isn't seated fully, it will mess up the spacing by which the backing plate is offset.

    If that doesn't work, I would make a shim the size of the hole in the backing plate to go between the backing plate and the brake (axle) sleeve to add a hair more offset between the plate/shoes and the drum.

  14. #14
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    117

    Default

    The mating faces of the drum and hub should be bare metal- no paint or plating. When I first got my panhead my axle sleeve was frozen in the hub. First thing I fixed.
    Originally the bike was made with interchangeable wheels front to back- with a rear stand and hinged fender for easy wheel removal. The entire brake stayed on the bike, chain still attached. You pulled the lug bolts, axle, and spacer then slid the hub off the sleeve, and pulled the wheel out.
    Personally I would grind down the sides of the shoes for the clearance you need.
    Last edited by Pynzo; 08-25-2016 at 4:38 AM.

  15. #15
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,454

    Default

    You need a thicker spacer or make a shim like said above...... Also I'm wondering why you rode it in the first place??????? It had to have been making one hell of a racket??

    Odd noises are never a good thing............

  16. #16
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    118

    Default

    it felt tight just rolling it around the shop, but figured it needed a run around the block to seat correctly, and rub off any crap. But when that didn't work, I took it back off to see why it was running tight, which lead to these questions. Sucks that Vtwin can't just make them perfect, and always have to modify and make up for their mistakes

  17. #17
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    12,906

    Default

    Some after/market parts are ......


  18. #18
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,454

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mikewerx View Post
    it felt tight just rolling it around the shop, but figured it needed a run around the block to seat correctly, and rub off any crap.
    It should NEVER be tight......... If it is there is something wrong.........

  19. #19
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12,454

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mikewerx View Post
    Sucks that Vtwin can't just make them perfect, and always have to modify and make up for their mistakes

    That's why I try and stay away from after market parts if I can............ And I usually do.......

  20. #20
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    118

    Default

    i ground down the pads, and even the side of the pads, still grinding. switched out the drum with an old drum I had lying around, which had a taller middle "tower" inside for spacer to go through, no grinding, runs smooth. Defective drum? defective drum design? you'd think if they sold as a kit it would pair perfectly.

Share This



Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in