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  1. #1
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    Default 47 Knucklehead Cork Sniffers Build

    Time to start on this heap
    replacing timer for correct timer and removing some chrome, fresh rebuild, not by me. This is a late knuckle 5 digit 12000 number. with correct carb mount bolts timer ect. more pics of done motor will follow.
    transmission correct nov 47 ,correct 1 year only tanks, very late correct frame not the xe35 over 12 this is the xe35 13 frame ( see palmers)
    frame is done painted , here is pic of it in primer after being blasted , unaltered frame

    motor, don't really like the chrome but it stays for now, need correct jugs also, will hunt after build for them

    here are some parts going to blasters, I reworked these tins, metal worked out the usual scape below derby cover and filled with metal bondo, there painted now and look pissa

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    nice complete rebuild with all andews components

    those forks came out and I replaces all shims with new ones by the way, the tranny is now together, I'm not going to use my 38 kicker cover and have a S S reproduction kicker cover for now
    I have a kicker pedal that is a 1946 it is all original and is very hard to find , I stole mine for 400 dollars, its solid plastic one and is for my 46 U 1946 tranny, I do know u could order them from what I read. so I'm up in air on using it
    I'm not sure how long this build is going to take, yeah I know rebuilt carb motor tranny ect.
    Last edited by Davestune; 06-22-2016 at 6:10 PM.

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    Damn nice looking start.........

  5. #5
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    Thank you, more pics this weekend
    Set frame up on lift
    Corksniffer is a slang term for people who judge the originality and correctness

  6. #6
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    Motor and frame set to go, photbucket is busting my butt

    here we go



    More to come, build is going to take a while

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davestune View Post

    Corksniffer is a slang term for people who judge the originality and correctness
    Oh OK.....

    Thought it had something to do with the Kennedy's...???
    (Always said that I much rather go hunting with Dick Cheney than ride with Tedd Kennedy .. !!!)

  8. #8
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    LOL Drag
    Anyway , worked on my cutout relay adjusting it, have not set voltage yet.

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    Worked on tranny mounting, had to shim under rear right hole .015 to make proper
    all hardware will be CP, nice kit from colony for the tranny. the plate is solidly mounted and the tranny is floating for now, I think I want the kicker arm of my 44 tranny , its not chrome, the 47 's is chrome, also need to hone the bushing and clean up skid plate



    this is going to take for ever to build

    I adjusted my cut out relay set . did not set the voltage yet going to wait till bike has battery to do this adjustment .015 between the arm and the coil and .020 for gap on both contacts
    atleast the motor and tranny are rebuilt, I may work magic on the oil tank but hunting for a better one ,will see. I should steal the one from the 39 haha


    had the cover blasted came out pissa, I have a real early relay for 30's also 2 contact

  10. #10
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    also have to clean up inner tin , its in awesome shape , missing 1 rivet for mount and a minor weld and I'm good to go, when I tore it down , it had all the cp bolts was surprised, not ripped apart
    I will bolt down the motor this week also , no shims needed,


    I usually wire first, doesn't matter really I guess
    I'm happy with my body work and paint on the frame also

    the primary covers came out awesome, hanging in the background

    Last edited by Davestune; 06-26-2016 at 7:20 PM.

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    Looken good...................

  12. #12
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    Thanks,
    Today I worked on on an original inner tin , amazing shape as these are allways torn up, this one had some welds done to it and cracks around the front 3 holes, I tacked the holes up not completely , really need to get a kit to braze .
    so stripped it did some body work
    Before

    mixed some base coat and clear and shot the tin black


    OK, This was really cool, never did this before but I Parkerize today
    dipped sandblasted parts in acid wash then in the parkerising solution for 15 Min at 200 degrees and then in oil at 200 degrees, really cool, I need more solution and a bigger stainless pot lol, I stole the ol ladys pans and hid them rofl!!!!!

    not bad for 1st time



    The parts all done, so cool


    more to follow

    have correct kit for mounting the inner tin to frame coming cp bolts and springs
    also have a oem inner primary drain kit coming allso

  13. #13
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    Damn nice looking........... It's really coming together....... I really need to find time to get started redoing my Knuck............

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davestune View Post

    I stole the ol ladys pans and hid them rofl!!!!!
    Don't you be letting her get them back to cook spaghetti in....
    Their done for food perpetration.....

    "ptomaine poisoning"

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    Just FYI: If you have a glass bowl or pan that will fit in a microwave, you can parkerize small parts in a microwave provided that the parts are completely submerged in the solution. Distilled water instead of tap water and a pre dip in muratic acid mixed 10 parts water to 1 part acid yields excellent results. Since water boils at a lower temp than the acid, you can top off the solution with water and still have a usable solution since it is primarily water that evaporates from the solution.
    If you plan to paint over the park, put the parts in boiling water rather than oil after the park dip and scrub them with a non metalic brush to remove the park solution residue.

    Some parts dipped the the same solution at the same time will yield differing shades of gray. This is caused by the hardness of the steel. The harder the steel, the lighter the color will be.

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    Thanks on info, I am acid dipping then into the solution then oil, I know on skip oil if painting the parts thanks again on info.
    Also I pulled my front head there was a repair on one of the ears that looks like a hairline crack, it may be a seam where the brazed ends but having it checked and redone.
    Tattoo , what year knuck ya have and is it just motor or complete? bobber or stocker?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davestune View Post
    Tattoo , what year knuck ya have and is it just motor or complete? bobber or stocker?
    It's a 46 F..........You see what it is now.......... But I have everything to make it stock again........... I'm going to put a pan motor in the chopper frame.......
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knuckle1.jpg  

  18. #18
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    Cool thread. I've never had anything to Parkerize so it's nice to see it done.

    really need to get a kit to braze .
    You will enjoy brazing, and don't just get chain store shit to to it with though that can serve in a pinch.

    You can braze and cut using oxy-propane but getting an acetylene cylinder is more useful and allow you to gas weld. If you love old metal, you'll enjoy both and the cost of an OA setup isn't bad at all. Buy cylinders used to exchange, leasing is a killer at low gas use rates since a cylinder may sit for years before being emptied.

    Buy one of these and place in yer shithouse for convenient reading. You want a 1930s edition because those were printed when OA was at its peak. Every torch you see it still available used though I'd buy new or refurbed quality regulators. Smith and Victor make nice stuff too. I've sampled many since I went slightly overboard collecting torches.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oxwelders-Ma...YAAOSwMNxXbDZP

    Best online OA resource I know of: http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?27598-Oxy-Fuel

    If you have a MIG, you'll enjoy MIG brazing too. It's sweet for sheet metal repair. https://rts.i-car.com/collision-repa...-i-use-it.html

    Brazed joints can take a pounding. I used to braze steel rule fabric cutting dies ("cookie cutters" used in a mechanical press to cut through many layers of fabric) and often the metal would fail outside the joint.
    Last edited by farmall; 07-02-2016 at 9:53 AM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davestune View Post
    Also I pulled my front head there was a repair on one of the ears that looks like a hairline crack, it may be a seam where the brazed ends .
    Can you post a photo of this area..

  20. #20
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    Default Crown Alloys 44-30 cast iron MIG wire.

    My machinist bros repair a lot of ancient cast iron machine parts so I suggested trying it. They MIGed a variety of cast iron scrap parts then we beat the fuck out of them with hammers to test. The welds held up nicely and they've used it for repairs for a couple of years so far.

    http://www.crownalloys.com/TechSheet...ew_Warning.pdf

    Brazing works very well on cast as does other methods, but it's worth buying a roll if you deal with old castings.

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