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    Default Replaced Generator and Regulator on my Ironhead but now I have no spark, Please help

    I have a 1975 Ironhead XLCH kicker. The battery started dying overnight so I got a new battery, new generator and new Voltage regulator. I put all the new parts on and went to start it and nothin. It was getting juice, the headlight turned out but wouldnt fire. I checked to see if it had any spark and nope. No spark. And on top of that, the battery still dies overnight. Please help, im a bit lost. Thank you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dedstbleorgnl86 View Post
    I have a 1975 Ironhead XLCH kicker. The battery started dying overnight so I got a new battery, new generator and new Voltage regulator. I put all the new parts on and went to start it and nothin. It was getting juice, the headlight turned out but wouldnt fire. I checked to see if it had any spark and nope. No spark. And on top of that, the battery still dies overnight. Please help, im a bit lost. Thank you.
    Did you polarize the generator??? Do you have it wired correctly??? It sounds like you have a dead short...... Do you have a manual???

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    Charge the battery up and see if it will hold a charge overnight not hooked to the bike. They wont stand many total discharges. Once you have a battery you can trust hook the positive up and put a test light(or ammeter or multi-meter set to amps) between the negative terminal and groun.d and ground. with everything turned off the light shouldn't light ( ammeter should read 0 multi-meter should read less than 300 milliamps) unless the battery was shorted internally there will be a draw. Unhook circuits until you find the one that stops the draw. Start by pulling fuses or poping circuit breakers. If that doesnt find it you would be smart to buy a manual. Once you get the draw fixed let me know what kind of ignition it has.
    Dusty

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustyDave View Post
    Charge the battery up and see if it will hold a charge overnight not hooked to the bike. They wont stand many total discharges. Once you have a battery you can trust hook the positive up and put a test light(or ammeter or multi-meter set to amps) between the negative terminal and groun.d and ground. with everything turned off the light shouldn't light ( ammeter should read 0 multi-meter should read less than 300 milliamps) unless the battery was shorted internally there will be a draw. Unhook circuits until you find the one that stops the draw. Start by pulling fuses or poping circuit breakers. If that doesnt find it you would be smart to buy a manual. Once you get the draw fixed let me know what kind of ignition it has.
    Dusty


    That's great advice but did a 1975 sporty have fuses???? Circuit breakers maybe......
    Last edited by Tattooo; 05-07-2016 at 8:31 PM.

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    Ain't many '75 Sporties with original wiring left and what's out there is frequently trashed. Many old bikes I've seen would benefit from a complete rewiring.

    Worn ignition switches can cause many problems and are cheap to replace.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    That's great advice but did a 1975 sporty have fuses???? Circuit breakers maybe......
    I told him both because at this age either are highly possible, a fuse-able link out of a Chevy wouldn't surprise me too much.
    Dusty

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    Quote Originally Posted by DustyDave View Post
    I told him both because at this age either are highly possible, a fuse-able link out of a Chevy wouldn't surprise me too much.
    Dusty
    LOL There's no telling what's left on the bike that came on it like farmall said....

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    OP, did you figure it out? Replies complete threads making them more useful to everyone else.

    Buy or download the factory manual and LEARN THE THEORY OF OPERATION OF ALL THE MAJOR COMPONENTS. The internet helps in conjunction with the manual and with study of basic chopper wiring. Not hard if you make the effort but if you don't you'll stay lost.

    Everyone who owns an old Harley (or Britbike) should eventually be able to wire the basic systems from memory. Train yourself to that standard. You noobs are the old farts of the future.

    Check each wire one at a time. Learn how to think of sub-systems and how to disconnect them to isolate problems.

    Battery dying should have been troubleshot by trickle charging then load testing the battery. Auto stores have load testers but they are cheap, work for all your vehicles and are handy as fuck. (Basically a box with a switch, meter and a "toaster" style resistance element.) If battery is fucked, replace then continue troubleshooting. Check for drains as above per DustyDave using a test light or meter. OWN BOTH. Most mechanics own several and use the fuck out of them.

    The only "dumb question" is one you don't ask, but study helps you ask better questions.

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    Did anyone mention polarizing the generator?
    Careful, it's done differently than the manual if you've a solid state regulator.

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