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  1. #1
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    Default Lapping Mainshaft Case Race

    Installed a new Jim's case race and a Trock Trap Door on this 75 XLH..

    The I.D. of the race was .0013" under the Min running fit speck of .0006"...

    So ... here we go.....

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    Took the I.D. to .0009" running fit and called it a day......

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    Now to check the end-plays on both the counter & main shafts....

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    What I'd like to see there is .005"
    Last edited by Dragstews; 04-25-2016 at 8:32 PM.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Sorry Mods.....

    Meant for this thread to go to "Everything Sportster"
    Or perhaps to the "HOW: TO TECH"

    Didn't know for sure where to stick it..??
    (No... It won't fit there.!!)

    If ya want to move it... You know where the buttons are...

    _______________________________________________

    On to the countershaft....
    Will be shooting for the same speck as the mainshaft ... .005"

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    _______________________________________________

    Gear spacing is run able...
    Could drop counter shift gear .010 to get a tad better spacing.....

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    Last edited by Dragstews; 04-26-2016 at 7:17 PM.

  3. #3
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    Well.... Lookie what I found.....

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    Just about got all the parts for the primary....
    Acquired a new Re-Pop clutch basket .... Having a small issue with the bearing snap ring not seating in the groove .... Seems that it was cut a bit low..

  4. #4
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    Getting all parts together for finishing up the tranny...
    Got some shift forks on the way to dial in the spacing a little better.

    Nailed down the Trock Idler ....
    New primary chain, clutch basket, all bearings are new...

    Need a clutch that can handle what this motor will be putting to the ground....

    Have one of these in mind... Got one in my Buell, it rocks ...!!!

    SCORPION CLUTCH- 1971-'85 SPORTSTER



    Features a 250% increase in clutch surface area and utilizes six coil springs for a vast improvement in feel and performance compared to the stock dual spring clutch. Three different spring sets are included to suit virtually any application. Includes steel inner hub and billet aluminum pressure plate. Direct fit- no modifications required.
    _________________________________________________

    Once all the tranny/primary is done, will be getting back to the heads...
    They are 95% done but for a few checks.... Thinking about throwing in a set of these critters.....



    The Leineweber L-5 cams that are in this motor have near .520 gross valve lift... Rollers would help with longer life from the valve guides ....
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-03-2016 at 9:44 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default

    cool build, followin'

  6. #6
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    Thanks....

    This motor has been a cool build from the ashes of a blow-up....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Not much of the Oem parts was reusable after the front piston gave up the ghost...

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    Did a 4-5/8" stroke with S&S Heavy Duty Rods and their "Big Foot" sprocket shaft.
    Had the need for jugs being the Oem ones was also killed from the blow-up..
    Wanted to go to 3-7/16" bore with a set of Trock's...With the stroke, that would have got the cubies up to 86 inches..

    Due the the high cost of how this motor is going together, we got a set of stock bore imports...The cubes with that bore (3-3/16) gave us 74 cubes....

    This bike is going to be a TT Cycle .... Aaaaaaa that's not "Tourist Trophy" ... stands for "Tavern to Tavern"
    Just a nice Hot Rod for some stop light to stop light action....Might see some Track fun too..???

    Been a fairly long build .... But do see the light at the end of the tunnel ..!!!
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-06-2016 at 9:47 AM.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Technical

  8. #8
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    Some of it, not much...

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Some of it, not much...
    more please

  10. #10
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    Somewhere here on Chop-Cult I have a build thread on this motor, from the start...

    But, Damn if I can find it..????

    Hey... Gimme a break... I'm old and senile ...!!!



    (I can recall when the first year Chevy 409's came out.
    Hell of a muscle car. And the 427's, Holy set you back in the seat..!!)



    .................. /// https://youtu.be/xKKP_cZuk54 \\\..................
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-06-2016 at 10:22 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Getting all parts together for finishing up the tranny...
    Got some shift forks on the way to dial in the spacing a little better.

    Nailed down the Trock Idler ....
    New primary chain, clutch basket, all bearings are new...

    Need a clutch that can handle what this motor will be putting to the ground....

    Have one of these in mind... Got one in my Buell, it rocks ...!!!

    SCORPION CLUTCH- 1971-'85 SPORTSTER



    Features a 250% increase in clutch surface area and utilizes six coil springs for a vast improvement in feel and performance compared to the stock dual spring clutch. Three different spring sets are included to suit virtually any application. Includes steel inner hub and billet aluminum pressure plate. Direct fit- no modifications required.
    _________________________________________________

    Once all the tranny/primary is done, will be getting back to the heads...
    They are 95% done but for a few checks.... Thinking about throwing in a set of these critters.....



    The Leineweber L-5 cams that are in this motor have near .520 gross valve lift... Rollers would help with longer life from the valve guides ....
    You like using roller tips? I was trying to decide if I should use some on my shovel

  12. #12
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    Kinda overkill on motors that have near stock cams...
    Does free up some HP that a motor eats up spinning itself... (Reduced internal friction)

    At the valve stem end, a regular rocker arm simply has a flat surface which slides across the face (end) of the valve stem. This scraping motion produces a lot of friction, again robbing horsepower. A roller rocker has a round wide wheel roller bearing at the valve stem end, which rolls instead of scraping the top of the valve stem. Because it rolls instead of scrapes, friction is reduced significantly.

    With cams that has over .500 lift is where rollers shine the most...
    Much less wear and tear on valve guides

  13. #13
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    Dang Sportie is fighting me every step of the way....

    Went to install the new A/M ratchet gear spacer onto the clutch gear and no go...
    Had to hone the I.D. of the spacer about .010"

    Then, was installing the new Sifton kick gear... It was hitting the Trock door, some grind time there went down on the trap door.

    Next was attaining some end-play for the kick shaft....
    This motor never had a kicker on it, was ele. start only.

    Got a bunch of new there also, kick-shaft is a NOS Morris unbreakable...attempting to take a little meat off the flange of the shaft, being it has been harden that's slow go... Tool-post O.D. grinder is a must...
    Thought about taking some stock from the back-side of the Sifton kick gear...be alot easier to cut....

    Got all of that fitted ....
    Loaded up the new primary chain, (Oem) clutch, Trock roller chain adjuster and motor sprocket for a look at fitment there...

    Looking good ..... Might see a need for a bit of grind time on the inside of the primary cover for the roller chain adjuster...
    Will be getting out the clay for a look at that potential problem.

    __________________________________________________ ___

    The Oem clutch is now history, got one of these on order....



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    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-16-2016 at 11:33 AM.

  14. #14
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    Holy ten times the contact patch.....

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  15. #15

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    damn this is a rad thread, it's good to know the pro's fight with parts and disagreeable engines just like the rest of us.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragstews View Post
    Thanks....

    This motor has been a cool build from the ashes of a blow-up....

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	000_1351.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	288.2 KB 
ID:	69408

    Not much of the Oem parts was reusable after the front piston gave up the ghost...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	000_1339.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	280.3 KB 
ID:	69409

    Did a 4-5/8" stroke with S&S Heavy Duty Rods and their "Big Foot" sprocket shaft.
    Had the need for jugs being the Oem ones was also killed from the blow-up..
    Wanted to go to 3-7/16" bore with a set of Trock's...With the stroke, that would have got the cubies up to 86 inches..

    Due the the high cost of how this motor is going together, we got a set of stock bore imports...The cubes with that bore (3-3/16) gave us 74 cubes....

    This bike is going to be a TT Cycle .... Aaaaaaa that's not "Tourist Trophy" ... stands for "Tavern to Tavern"
    Just a nice Hot Rod for some stop light to stop light action....Might see some Track fun too..???

    Been a fairly long build .... But do see the light at the end of the tunnel ..!!!
    What do you consider max oversize bore on the 3 3/16 sportster cylinder?

    I realize that cylinder is trash.

    B

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bohica2xo View Post
    What do you consider max oversize bore on the 3 3/16 sportster cylinder?
    0.070 is as far as they go....

    The jugs on this motor are from the East... Imports, comes a few thousands under Std. bore...
    Used S&S parts to go 4-5/8" also their sleeper Pistons... They start off at .010 over on their stroker pistons... Don't make Std's ....

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    Nicely made re-po jugs....
    Wanted to used 3-7/16" Trock jugs, be 86 cubies, but for all other Hi-Po parts that went into this build, they got vetoed ...



    Ronnie tried his best to talk me into going 3-1/2" on the bore for this build....
    That would get the cubes up to 89 inch....

    Had my ear, just didn't have the go-ahead from the owner....
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-19-2016 at 10:42 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bohica2xo View Post

    I realize that cylinder is trash.
    Is is and it ain't....

    Could sleeve it back to Std. bore....

    [IMG][/IMG]



    But.... By the time the sleeve is bought and the labor it takes to install it, would be cheaper to buy the imports....

    __________________________________________________ _______________

    Thinking about going Hyd. on the 75 XL Stroker...

    [IMG][/IMG]

    I did install the light weight springs....
    Those will work well until the break-in is over ....
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-20-2016 at 8:44 AM.

  19. #19
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    Well, if the import stuff is ok with you - then sleeving is certainly not wort the effort.

    I asked because I have a few sets of jugs hanging around, and most are already +.030 or +.040 I know some companies will make all sorts of stupid oversize pistons. Good to know +.060 is not a time bomb.

    Trock 3.5's sound like fun - but I suspect they are not cheap.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bohica2xo View Post

    Trock 3.5's sound like fun - but I suspect they are not cheap.
    Close to a grand...

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trock-Big-Bo...9T2KC~&vxp=mtr

    But it's all the other work it will take to get them to set down on the motor that get's deep into the pocket....

    Welding the deck up and machining...

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    Head work is maga with relocating the head bolts and oil drains, machining the chamber larger...
    Last edited by Dragstews; 05-21-2016 at 10:56 AM.

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