I like how this is shaping up. Good luck on the build dude. Gunna be nice when done
Zodiac: 1955 Swingarm Panhead Build
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Thanks everyone.
I started mocking up the (mostly) final run for the rear exhaust section.
I went back and forth over and over again about collecting the two into once main header (like Caleb Owens' YangYang or Oliver Jones' BF7 mega-black shovelhead) or duals like Cox's Barracuda.
Honestly, the complexity of landing the rear pipe cleanly into the front was REALLY daunting and I took multiple failures at it, so went with the dual pipe route. Both would look killer IMHO.
I had to tweak the front pipe run to clear over the rear exit, but I finally got it poking out into space below it.
IMG_0154 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
IMG_0153 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
IMG_0151 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
To aid in fishing the rear section through and out the middle of the frame, I added in a slip fit section. This also decouples the final alignment of the two pie runs and will make it MUCH easier to make them dead parallel without putting lots of torque on almost-but-not-quite perfectly aligned pipes.
Mark a line with a super advanced line-o-widget
IMG_0163 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
Cut some kerfs:
IMG_0165 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
Make fit:
IMG_0167 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
And get the exit angle perfect:
IMG_0166 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
At this point I'm going to save myself the embarrassment of showing my tack welds... I have LOTS to learn about TIG still. And will have to brush up on my burn through hole filling before this job is done...Comment
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And the reveal... Pretty happy how these are shaping up.
Note: both pipes are sagging a bit and will be raised to clear the clutch release arm. In fact, I should pause the exhaust building for a bit and iterate on the drivetrain before I design myself into a corner...
And there are going to be laterally slash cut tips added to the ends too. For dramatic flair and minimization of soot on the rest of the bike...
IMG_0171 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
IMG_0170 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
IMG_0169 by Eric Bott, on FlickrComment
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With the card stock, I am mocking up a bit of a mini cowl to connect the lines of the seat pommel and the fender. Its going to be a lot like a scorpion seat where theres a bit of a flat run from the pommel to the fender, but I want that area to be alloy, not leather/seat. Because the rear section of a swinger frame is much boxier and has a lot more visual weight than their rigid counterparts, the fender/seat area of the bike need a bit more volume to it as well to make it look neutral. To my eye, running a copy of a rigid fender (specially swingarm mounted) and seat often looks way to dainty and always just sits visually on top of the frame. The lines need to floooow.... or just build a rigid.Comment
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Still at it, though slow and deliberate.
Weld, cut, grind, stare, swear...
IMG_0395 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
You'll notice I got some tanks finally... though I'd been working on narrowing up my own 5-gal splits, Cody on here had a pre made set. Good quality and for a good price. I'll still work on my in the gaps, but its good to just have a solid set to work with and move forward.
IMG_0419 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
I had to do a little relieving around the heads, should be easy to patch up and all the cuts will basically be unseen under the tank, on the inside.
IMG_0413 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
IMG_0416 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
IMG_0414 by Eric Bott, on FlickrComment
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Also made another big visual step in getting it looking like an actual motorcycle: Bars, grips, and throttle!
Easy and felt good. Got a pair of 30 deg drags for cheap on OldSTF. Narrowed them and shortened them to what you see here. Still playing with the angle of them, playing between "sad dog ear" forward bars and swept back drags. But I'm really liking how they play with the tanks.
IMG_0435 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
IMG_0490 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
IMG_0484 by Eric Bott, on Flickr
IMG_0488 by Eric Bott, on FlickrComment
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The SW200 TIG thus far is great. But note that I'm a total neophyte to TIG welding, so its not like I have a fully fledged opinion. But for the price you get:
- "USA-ish" machine
- 110/220V capable
- AC/DC modes
- 200 amp max (kinda a golden threshold for automotive-level work)
The one downside which I am in the middle of "fixing" is non-adjustable post-flow on the gas. It uses a LOT more gas than it needs, it least for me as I'm not building any satellite parts or shit... its something like 8-10 sec of post flow at the higher amp ranges which is totally wasteful when I'm still practicing and going little stringers that are barely 10 seconds long. *shrug*
So one thats addressed i'll be more stoked.Comment
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