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  1. #1
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    Default Tall dog bone risers

    So I've been looking and I can't find dog bone risers over about 8 inches. I'm looking to go in the 12-14 inch range. Anyone know if anyone isakjng classic dog bone risers (much prefer offset) in that length? If I can't find them I'm gonna have to look into making a set but since I'm still learning this stuff (welding and fabrication) it will take a while for me to get to making a set of those. I GUESS I could buy a smaller set, cut and extend them and call it a day but I'm trying to see any and all options. Lol. Oh and a question that has got to be simple as all hell BUT is there a specific name for the bars that re pretty much shaped like drag bars but are usually pretty narrow and also turn down instead of pull back? Cutting up some old bars I have lying around to make those simple bars and when j was describing them to someone I realized that I didn't even know if they have a particular name.
    Thanks for any help and your patience guys.

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    I've never seen a set over 6", other than somewhere online is a 60's pic of a guy on a chop with some super tall risers and apes. I didn't look like that safe of a setup.

    I would think that you'll need to weld them or pin them to keep them from pulling back towards you. If you're holding on at 80 and hit a big bump, they'll probably rotate on you. You'll be placing a lot of leverage on them and you probably can't torque them enough to hold..

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    You could tack weld where the assembly tends to "pivot" on the bottom inboard of each side so if you have to replace any parts you can unbolt the riser caps and twist off the tack welds on the bottom by hand.

    I cured one seto of my apes from shifting that way. (I wanted the risers to hold a speedo bracket.)

    Pins are stress raisers and can cause the tubing portion of a pinned joint to fail. I had a pinned bar near failure (hole wallowed and the play warned me) and will never pin one again.

    The best risers from a structural standpoint are welded to the bars.

    Front Street Cycle fabs some very nice stainless bars you could check out for inspiration. (I bought four, fuck chrome.)

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    )Pins are stress raisers and can cause the tubing portion of a pinned joint to fail. I had a pinned bar near failure (hole wallowed and the play warned me) and will never pin one again.
    Yes - good point! Something taking so much rattling probably shouldn't be pinned through relatively thin wall tubing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dunhill View Post
    So I've been looking and I can't find dog bone risers over about 8 inches. I'm looking to go in the 12-14 inch range. Anyone know if anyone isakjng classic dog bone risers (much prefer offset) in that length? If I can't find them I'm gonna have to look into making a set but since I'm still learning this stuff (welding and fabrication) it will take a while for me to get to making a set of those. I GUESS I could buy a smaller set, cut and extend them and call it a day but I'm trying to see any and all options. Lol. Oh and a question that has got to be simple as all hell BUT is there a specific name for the bars that re pretty much shaped like drag bars but are usually pretty narrow and also turn down instead of pull back? Cutting up some old bars I have lying around to make those simple bars and when j was describing them to someone I realized that I didn't even know if they have a particular name.
    Thanks for any help and your patience guys.
    Dog bone risers are traditionally for springer top trees hence the Look of a "dog bone". Are you looking for these or later style risers.

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    Ideally classic off set dog bones. If I can't find the classic ones then the ones that are still off set but go rt into the trees like any other risers. I'd like to add that little pull back without having any in the bars (I hope that makes sense). For comfort I find bars that just curve down and not back to be the most comfortable and honestly part of it is just looks. I love the way they look. I'm waiting on a girder front end I ordered (I saw Voodoo vintages new girders and loved it so my wonderful wife ordered me a new front end for Christmas). The classic off set dogbones and those bars are just an early option... The one that I like the look of the most but its not set in stone yet. I'm not the type of guy that has money for mistakes (I know most of us aren't)... I can't afford to get something.. Not like it... Change my mind and get something else (also why I'm trying to learn asuch fab as I can).
    Thanks for the help so far guys.

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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    You could tack weld where the assembly tends to "pivot" on the bottom inboard of each side so if you have to replace any parts you can unbolt the riser caps and twist off the tack welds on the bottom by hand.

    I cured one seto of my apes from shifting that way. (I wanted the risers to hold a speedo bracket.)

    Pins are stress raisers and can cause the tubing portion of a pinned joint to fail. I had a pinned bar near failure (hole wallowed and the play warned me) and will never pin one again.

    The best risers from a structural standpoint are welded to the bars.

    Front Street Cycle fabs some very nice stainless bars you could check out for inspiration. (I bought four, fuck chrome.)
    Gonna check them out. Thanks

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    He may take a while because each is custom but it's worth it. For a place holder for control wiring and cables you could run whatever's handy.

  9. #9
    2lanehighways
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    one thing,with the taller the risers , movement on bars will be amplified .in otherwords, tall riser may flex a bit at mounting points if rubber bushed ,then you will feel a bit slop in bars,now if you have risers with one piece top clamp, may not move around as bad as other designs, now try putting apes on those tall risers= more slop.

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    Quote Originally Posted by StinkyPete View Post
    I've never seen a set over 6", other than somewhere online is a 60's pic of a guy on a chop with some super tall risers and apes. I didn't look like that safe of a setup.
    Found it...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	61A50222-17CC-4E60-8772-5D207BBA60BD_zpsawkt8ujw.jpg 
Views:	49 
Size:	167.6 KB 
ID:	69270

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by StinkyPete View Post
    Found it...

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	61A50222-17CC-4E60-8772-5D207BBA60BD_zpsawkt8ujw.jpg 
Views:	49 
Size:	167.6 KB 
ID:	69270
    Those risers are ok for a show bike but not for a rider. I would not trust them. Vibration will at some point cause them to fail. I concur with all the men that stated that adverse affects of tall multipiece risers. Mr. Dunhill save yourself the mistake of going that route if the bike is going to be a rider.

  12. #12
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    There is no inherent reason that assembly should "fail" IF properly fabricated from quality steel. If someone broke theirs it's because the fabricator didn't give a shit. Make the risers from solid and consider a bit larger diameter. Use Loctite on the riser bolts and Grade 8 or better hardware.

    It would be sloppy as fuck (note the rubber mounts) and uncomfortable as shown, but "vibration" won't take it apart. The handlebars themselves are very lightly loaded. The risers could be heavily loaded in some situations.

    Rotation of the handlebars in the risers can be prevented by tacking them to the risers at the six-o'clock position. This can be tested (all welders understand destructive testing, ya gotta pass a bend test to get hired!) by applying overload to a sample. The rubber mounts are stupid for that particular application. Don't copy them. The assembly isn't a tuning fork so it doesn't need them. Swat some lead into the handlebar ends (I use large fishing weights.) Trick is ancient and works fairly well.

    Twisting is another possible problem so I'd bridge the risers towards the bottom. Tacked handlebars plus bridged risers forms a rectangle and prevents independent pivoting of the risers under load.

    OP could mock up a test assembly then abuse it to failure. That eliminates wondering. It's only metal and the first one may as well be destroyed for science since the second and subsequent will be better for it.

    That said it would be much simpler to run tall apes with very short risers and tack welded to prevent pivoting. Looks cleaner too IMO.

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