Regatta Garage - Peoples Champ 4 build

[GRHebard]

hey guys, my names Greg Hebard. i dont post on here too often, i usually just do research. but i wanted to share the project i'm working on. im not usually very good at documenting my builds, but ill try to include a lot of it!

i'm building a 1965 pan/shovel for peoples champ 4 this year. it wont be too wild of a build, as far as it wont have a 10ft sissybar, and 40" over. but itll hopefully have some aspects that keep people scratching their heads.

heres the donor bike, i was considering using the drop-seat swingarm frame, but i decided against it, for this build. ill be using a repop wishbone









i started modifying the frame a little bit yesterday, im going to do a few more things before i start assembling the roller





i didnt like how tall the front gastank mount was, so i decided to make some more changes.





i wanted to add a rib to make it look stock, but wasnt happy with this one above ^ i ended up making it shorter

[47str8leg]

Personally I would have changed the seat and taken off the tassels and called it done.

[Blackbetty]

^boringgggggggg

dude great fab and something different on the neck. Excited about this one, you're a talented builder

[GRHebard]

Personally I would have changed the seat and taken off the tassels and called it done.

yeah, i do like that bike, ill be holding onto the chassis for the next build. im not at a point right now where i can afford multiple generator engines, i got a good deal on that bike, so i figured itd be a good donor

[47str8leg]

yeah, i do like that bike, ill be holding onto the chassis for the next build. im not at a point right now where i can afford multiple generator engines, i got a good deal on that bike, so i figured itd be a good donor

Good idea . If that's a first year electraglide frame and motor I'd look for an original set of outside oiler heads for that motor
and leave the rest of that bike alone . When money allows I'd throw the original motor back in the swingarm.
What are you looking to achieve w/the tank mount ? On my knuckle build my fatbob mounts were already gone so I used the speedo hole to
make a hidden front mount on my peanut tank. I'm assuming your not using fatbobs because that would forgo the use of a speedo and move them backwards toward the
seat post.

[boomboomthump]

I dig that one you sent to the land down under. Looking forward to this.


Choppers or fuck off.

[nuklhd]

48strlg, that frame pictured was only used up to 64 .
GRHebard looking forward to what you end up with. the original bike sure is a big mix of different year stuff huh

[47str8leg]

I should have picked up on the gap between the oil tank and the top of the transmission that denotes the electraglide frame. Outside of the seat and tassels that bike has classic outlaw biker lines the way it sits. I'm all for choppers but sometimes people should leave well enough alone. A lot of choppers are abortions.

[GRHebard]

i think the donor bike is a mess of different parts.. but i plan on holding onto most everything to use later

[GRHebard]

removal of neck lock

















axle plates, after the advice of some of my friends, i opted to keep the extended slot on the non-brake side. which i'm actually happy about, i think it looks good. i wanted the axle plates to still be a little bit asymmetrical, like they are stock, so i didnt extend the brake-side axle plate, but i rounded out the slot to mimic the other side. these are pretty strongly inspired by a Daikoube chopper.





i decided to mess around with the stance on the bike. i'm not sure of what length forks i'd like to run. i think +4 from where i'm at.. does anyone know what the stock length is for the late 33.4mm front end?

this is roughly where the bike would sit with the length it currently has. its still hard to tell how itd look without a tank and wheels on. but im mostly paying attention to the angle of the bottom tubes of the frame and comparing it to completed bikes



this would be +6 from where i'm at. but its kind of hard to look at since the axle is just raised up, rather than longer. it kind of plays a trick on your eyes..

[brooklynbomber]

Hey Greg really looking forward to your build and what you do with this bike. I always enjoyed following your Instagram (@deathorvictory) when I had it active. Your triumph chopper is still one of my all time faves and you have a knack for subtlety that always is spot on. Best of luck on this build, can't wait to see all these bikes finished.

[GRHebard]

Hey Greg really looking forward to your build and what you do with this bike. I always enjoyed following your Instagram (@deathorvictory) when I had it active. Your triumph chopper is still one of my all time faves and you have a knack for subtlety that always is spot on. Best of luck on this build, can't wait to see all these bikes finished.

thanks dude! i didnt realize you werent on instagram anymore?

[GRHebard]

well damn, im running into a little bit of an issue with the wheel bearings..
so i removed the wheel bearings out of the starhub before i took it to the chromer. these are the bearings and spacer that came out. i figure it was used as a front wheel, considering the 19" rim





i didnt get a chance to test fit it on the axle, but i just went out to the shop and the bearings wont fit over the axle that came with the v-twin repop frame..

will this kit fit, and resolve the problem?



here are the specs on what i currently have:
the axle has a step in it, its 0.685" on the brake-side, and the step is about where the hub would meet the wheel spacers on the right side, its steps down to 0.670". the bearings that i pulled out of the star hub are 0.668"

does anyone have any knowledge about this?

also, i'm trying to plan the replacement bearings for the front hub as well..
i looked up the replacement parts and found this: LINK TO BEARINGS

but they say 3/4", so i went on and measured my front axle from the 33.4mm front end, its 0.670"...



thanks for the help

[boomboomthump]

Putting the original style roller bearings back in would resolve your problem in theory, however, I have to question whether somebody machined that hub to fit those shielded ball bearings at some point. I can't tell you what the original bore in the hub should measure. Maybe someone has that info to chime in with.


What I can tell you and you may already know this, the rear bearings are 11/16" (.687") ID. So the part of the axle that is ~.684-.685 is what needs to fit inside the bearings. Then the left side of the axle steps down to ~.670" or so to fit inside of the "brake sleeve" (axle sleeve) which goes between the brake backing plate and the left side of the hub to space it. The ID of the sleeve is slightly smaller than the ID of the bearings (approx .674"). After that it steps down again to 5/8"-18 thread for the part of the axle that sticks out past the axle sleeve nut on the outside of the axle plate.



3/4" definitely isn't right for a 33.4mm front end. The application list seems correct, so I might just chalk that up to a typo of some sort in the v-twin catalog. I believe (could be wrong) the bearings you yanked from the star hub are what belong on a 33.4mm front end. Based on your measurements, seems to be off by .002" but I'm curious if you try to put them on that axle. Probably jives with your suspicion of the star hub being run up front w/ a 19" hoop laced to it. Someone likely converted it to run up front on a 33.4 front end. The question again is whether any machining to the star hub was done to fit those bearings or not.


#chopperproblems

[nuklhd]

like bbt said if the hub has been machined that kit wont work. i'd stay away from that junk stuff anyway. one size roller from a kit wont(probably) give you the fit you need anyway. a dear friend of mine wrote up an article on rebuilding star hubs http://www.caimag.com/wordpress/2009...ble-wheel-hub/
it might not help here but it's a good thing to reference if you havn't done one before.
I tried p/m'ing you but the site wouldn't let me for some reason.