Tweet
First post on the CC wuddup. One of many winter projects I have going on is cutting down the massive cluster that is my '13 sportsters wiring harness. Im pretty damn new to all of this so im really looking for some pro tips hopefully from experience. I kind of got antsy and dove right in with a decent amount of research(mainly on here with posts of early 2000 era sportsters). Starting to think that wasn't such a good idea. Im at the point where I cut what I knew, or thought I knew, I didn't really need. Only issue, starter button no worky. fuel pump pumps but the started button is out. No click, no nuthin. Also if anyone has ever hooked up a crank key ignition on a newer sportster some advice there would be rad too! Thanks in advance for any help
-
-
ive done all this on my 2010 sportster. running a turn key ignition I picked up off lowbrow. I used a diagram I got off a thread here to cut my harness down. do you want the schematic? I can upload it to here quick or you can check out "black is the new black" in the sportster section, he has the schematic in the comments on like the second page. I pretty much followed the diagram to a T and was able to get the bike started.
When you say starter wont work do you mean the actual start switch isn't going to work anymore? if so that should be fine if you get a turn key ignition, starter wire goes right to it.. I have no switches on my bike. Also, do you plan on keeping or ditching the TSM?Last edited by turk33; 12-02-2015, 9:41 AM. -
that's the exact key ignition im using. I think I may have it wired up wrong at the moment though. because I got the same thing minus the fuel pump activating. cranked it and got lights but that's it. if you could upload the schematic you usued that would be super appreciated! I would can my tsm if possible. anything that doesn't have to be there to run the bike im pretty much going to scrapComment
-
The diagram I used.. took me awhile to get it figured out but once you get a grasp on the schematic it starts getting easy.
the schematic shows you how to remove the TSM but here is a write up on it with lots of good info.
as for ignition: your Red/Black ignition wire should go to the "A" terminal, Black/Red starter wire should go to the "S" terminal, and the Red ignition wire should go to "B" terminal. my headlight is hard wired and I don't have any accessories so I don't have the Red/Grey ignition wire hooked up. Its got to be either the C or M terminal so you should be able to trial and error that part. let me know if this helps, if you need pictures or anything I can DM you my numberLast edited by turk33; 12-02-2015, 10:50 AM.Comment
-
right on man. seriously appreciate the help! I'll probably try and defeat this in a couple days on my day off. I'll let you know how it goes. that front end on your sporty is the tits btwComment
-
no worries man, hope this helps you, and yea lmk how it works out. that front end has been nothing but problems.. actually, chopping a rubbermount efi is nothing but problems haha.Comment
-
maaaan im starting to find that out myself haha. I had another quick inquiry on the wire garbage, how did you bypass the killswitch/get the fuel pump to kick on with that key ignition? I saw that the dude who went off that diagram just connected it to the switched power w/bk wire then ran what I believe to be the second split off w/bk wire to the starter button but my brain is having trouble picturing that in real life with the key ignition. my head is already starting to hurt again hahaComment
-
alright so the switched power (w/bk) starts on the fuse block and goes straight to the ecm, with one splice coming off it and going to the run/stop switch on your hand controls. I cut the w/bk off at the hand control, and then took that wire and spliced it into the ignition wire (grey) that is also coming off the fuse block. basically what that does is when you turn your ignition on itll give 12v to the switched power, which tells it that your start button is on and then you would be ready to crank the key and it would fire up. when you turn the key off, it takes the power off the ignition, which in turns takes it off the switch power, making it think the stop button has been pressed. idk if that's what you where asking but I hope it answers your question. as far as fuel pump goes i don't think you should have to mess with it. if you do the connections the way that diagram has it, your ecm should still see everything the same way, so when you turn your key to the first position it will see the start button turned on and the fuel pump should kick in.. if that makes sense.Last edited by turk33; 12-02-2015, 1:53 PM.Comment
-
yeah that's exactly what I was wondering. I think its safe to say I was just overthinking things hahaComment
-
alright so I finally mocked up the coil and ignition mount after connecting and cutting stuff following your advise and the wiring diagram. threw the battery back in. the fucker turned over and is working like the charmiest charm ever charmed. didn't fire up fully, because my bikes still in no shape to be fired up at the moment. but my wiring is all done and I can finally move on. just thought I'd let you know!Comment
-
charmiest charm ever charmed... hahaha fuck ya man glad it worked out for you.Comment
-
Just installed this ignition on my 07’. Having an issue with no running light. Front turn signals were taken off, rear signals & brake light still work. Running light only works when cranked to start. Tried some different combos on the ignition but most of them just make the bike fire up when turned to accessories & that’s the only way the running light stays on. Any ideas?
ThanksComment
Comment