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  1. #41
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    Coast it in neutral, cut the ignition. Main drive gear will still spin but most everything else in the trans, clutch,primary and engine will not.
    You'll know if its a chassis sound or not. Easier to pinpoint without the exhaust rumbling away too.

  2. #42
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    Yeah I did that, I'm almost positive it's at the secondary pulley. Going to try loosening the belt next, tightening doesn't do anything. Could be that bearing but that would suck as the tranny seal is there too.

  3. #43
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    Well, you should have about an inch of play average in the belt drive adjustment from the bottom middle when pushed upward... (check your manual for proper adjustment, a little loose on a belt drive is better than a bit tight) and adjusting belts, chains etc. by swing arm marks is not recommended other than to get them close to where they should be... especially with belt drives that tend to ride side to side... best to put it in neutral on a stand use the marks to get both sides close then spin the wheel, and watch which way the belt wants to ride on the pulleys to the right or left to get it going exactly down the middle of both sides... you can try wiggling the front belt sprocket if it has any play or movement that isn't 'round and round' in the normal motion? Then it could be belt squeal against a surface from poor adjustment or a sloppy sprocket... but it seriously sounds like your starter is still spinning from your video and the gears inside the starter are doing the whining.

    Some belt drive bikes have casting issues from the sprockets making them eventually wear and wobble on the shaft, the best remedy is packing the cast sprocket with heavy grease then putting it onto the shaft... you could try to do some belt dressing by spraying the belt down with WD-40 and wiping away any excess after a few minutes, they do dry out even though they are considered typically to be maintenance free... if you are sure the bearings are packed with grease and good to go, you can rule those out.

    Try the little fixes first and see what happens... I hope it's not worse than just a dried out or improperly tensioned/aligned belt. But if it continues? It's likely going to be the starter clutch being the issue.

  4. #44
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    I'll probably grab some belt dressing from advanced as opposed to wd-40 but I'm going to do that. The front pulley has about a millimeter wobble to it but without another bike to compare to, I'm not sure that's abnormal.

  5. #45
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    I personally wouldn't recommend putting belt dressing on it because it just makes it sticky, wastes your time and money. I scrubbed mine with hot, soapy water and that didn't help, then tried belt dressing and all that did was make everything stick to the belt, then I had to wash it again. I did get stuck in the rain twice within 3 days and the noise stopped for 100+ miles, then started again. I'm going to check my starter, belt tension and alignment, then post an update.

  6. #46
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    Put belt dressing on. That didn't do anything. Loosened belt a bit and torqued it to run to the left side of the pulley. Kinda helped for a day, sorta, sound was back this morning but gets better as the bike warms....er....I think. So definitly the sound goes away on acceleration. Completely. So the belt has been adjusted every which way but sideways. So I'm riding the fucker until something breaks and then we'll all know I guess.

    I just read where a guys primary belt pulley (front secondary if you will) was slightly loose. That is exactly what is up with mine. Like a millimeter wobble. But doesn't look like the lock plate has moved. This guy said his lock plate was slightly worn so maybe there is something to that.

    I actually bought a 1 7/8" socket this weekend. I hear it's a bitch to get that nut off though. I don't have any impact shit to speak of though.
    Last edited by goofyfoot2001; 08-10-2015 at 6:22 AM.

  7. #47
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    OK so provided the splines aren't totally fucked, I'm going to see if I can tighten the front pulley and use this since I doubt after tightening at all that the lock washer thing will match the screw holes up.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #48
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    Get a HF 1/2" electric impact. I haven't had anything I couldn't free with that plus a little heat.

  9. #49
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  10. #50
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    Yep, that retainer pin that holds onto the sockets keeps popping off of mine, but that's the only complaint I have so far. It's a good alternative if you don't have air.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by seaking View Post
    Yep, that retainer pin that holds onto the sockets keeps popping off of mine, but that's the only complaint I have so far. It's a good alternative if you don't have air.
    I have a pancake compressor, which would you suggest in that case? Are their any in the sub $100 price range? Ah found on at wally world that has 500ft lbs of torque at 90psi for $90. This one is 230lbs
    Last edited by goofyfoot2001; 08-12-2015 at 7:01 AM.

  12. #52
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    PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    LOOSE TRANSMISSION SECONDARY PULLEY

    The bike is so quiet in fact that now I have to look for other sounds I haven't heard before. When I say quiet I mean relative to a straight pipe harley.

    I put the pulley nut from ebay on and really doubt I was over 120 ftlb s of torque but this nut lets you really dial in the locking bolts. i just put some blue locker on them.


  13. #53
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    Thanks for updating with the solution. I wish more people would do this.

  14. #54
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    I'm just so fucking happy. I was blazing down the road a bit ago. Bike is purring. May have to go get a 30 tooth now.

  15. #55
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    So you took your side cover off, took the old nut & plate off, then put the new one back on and tightened it down to spec and that fixed the problem? What's the piece called you bought off ebay? I'm gonna check this on mine now and see if it's the same thing.

  16. #56
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    I think this is where I got it. I think the stock locking plate gets worn somehow and this one gives you a better shot at getting bolt holes lined up. But yes, all I did was take off the exhaust, pulley cover and rear brake. I put some liquid wrench on the nut and then it sat over night. I took a one foot breaker bar, put it in first gear with the front wheel against the wall, and started hitting it with a hammer but not too hard and eventually it came loose. remember the thread is reversed.

    I tighted it down pretty good but didn't go overboard; just hard enough to get a tight fit to the next locking bolt hole. Totally fixed the noise.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARLEY-SPORT...c837f5&vxp=mtr

  17. #57
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    Awesome, thanks goofyfoot. I'll check mine out as soon as I get the spare time and I'll post an update. I'm hoping this is the problem with mine as well because it's an easy fix. Thanks again man for the info and all the updates you posted.

  18. #58
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    Fucking wonderful, this same fucking sound is back. The weather is warmer. Maybe it's the belt tension. I tightened that forward pulley a notch. Fucking beautiful fucking morning out too.

  19. #59
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    I really like that nut.

    If you can measure transmission shaft runout and attempt to wiggle the shaft it might reveal play.

    You could remove the belt and see if the noise duplicates running under no load (with pulley installed so all the mechanical relationships and loads except drive belt are normal.

    You can use your throttle lock to set the engine at any RPM while playing.

    One trick to find bearing problems is pry against the shaft or pulley either running or static with a smooth length of hardwood like a hunk of broom handle. Listen for noise to change if running. Look for movement using an indicator opposite your pry point when static.

    If you have a dial or digital indicator you can measure shaft runout (not running of course). You could pull the spark plugs and bump the engine in gear to rotate the shaft.

    Pulley runout isn't a precise indication of shaft runout. If you haven't done lots of that you can refresh your memory with an image search. I'd remove the pulley and indicate the shaft itself.

    It is a nice day in SC. I spent the morning cutting a fuel pump access door hole in my Chevy bed. Motherfucker FODed out four injectors for some reason though I'd flushed the entire fuel system and wiped the inside of the tank clean. Shit happens, then weird shit happens.

  20. #60
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    OK turns out that nut I bought off ebay is made of soft metal and the threads have worn loose. I put the old nut on without the lock plate for now and that solved the issue. Ordered the normal nut and lock plate. So definitely if that forward pulley is loose by a few millimeters it's going to whine like banshee.

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