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  1. #1
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    Default GS450 odd charging issue

    Hey ya'll,

    Pulled the bike into the shop friday night, and low and behold, the low beam was popped. Having bought the whole headlight package at a swap meet, I wasn't sure what the previous life of the whole thing had been, so I didn't know if it had just the 400 miles I'd put in since spring, or 4000 from the old owner, I decided I'd just go pick up a new bulb. Popped it in on saturday, and went for a Sunday ride. I pull her out this morning and go to hop on to head to work... and boom, the low beam is out again. I tilt the sucker down, and ride in on high beam. I get her home tonight, and start picking at the electrical. Fucker is putting out 18 V DC at a couple thousand RPM! And that's with the high beam on. So I disconnect the regulator (a CB750, in place of the crumby, failure prone stock one), and hook up... the stock one, which was working in the fall when I put the bike up. Same problem! So I skim (I'm currently re-reading them in detail!) The Stator Papers over on the GS Resources, and follow the checks of the alternator; all alternator/stator leads are .8 ohms, so they're ok, and all the diode checks come back ok.

    So, what am I missing? What could cause me to be so far over voltage?

    Here's how I've got it wired.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Table of multimeter readings:
    --------------------------------------------Other lead on:
    Readings on R/R:-----------Stator wire 1-------Stator wire 2-------Stator wire 3
    Red lead on + output:--------0---------------------0------------------------0
    Red lead on - output:---------492-----------------499----------------------512
    black lead on + output:------510------------------478----------------------514
    black lead on - output:--------0---------------------0------------------------0

    Which would lead me to believe that it's ok...
    According to the holy 'Stator papers' on the GS resources, this points to a battery flaw. Would a battery issue cause this?
    Last edited by Westboundbiker; 07-20-2015 at 8:12 PM. Reason: added measurement table

  2. #2
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    Default

    Bad ground(s)
    Voltage regulators shunt extra voltage to ground and/or bleed off as heat.
    Light bulbs get extra hot if the resistance is raised via a partial ground path.
    Extra resistance from bad ground at the batt and/or bad cell(s) in the batt will make that reg work pretty hard too

  3. #3
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    Alright, I'll check all that tonight.

    One question on that, why would the bulbs get hotter if there was a partial ground? Wouldn't that act as additional resistance, meaning less voltage drop and less current flow across the bulb?

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    Theoretically, that sounds correct. I never actually measured the temperature of the bulbs, got me there.
    I just know from simple observation That bulbs with poor grounds burn out faster.
    And I have seen tailamps, and markers, with poor grounds with melted acrylic lenses. Once repaired, the replacement lenses didn't melt. So I drew a conclusion…

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    For those who find this thread in the future, I wish I could give you more information than this... I just pulled everything apart, checked some wires, ran an extra ground cable (even though my multimeter only showed .3 ohms from the case of the R/R to the battery ground beforehand)... and it started working fine. So... friggen gremlins.

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