91 Sportster with a new electric speedo.

[wakethedead]

So I had been looking for a long time at changing out my big clunky cable driven speedo for an electric one that would you a smaller sending wire and I finally decided on (http://kosonorthamerica.com/product/...dometer-bf-bc/) because it has the indicator lights built in and I was trying to cut down on the profile on the bars while still keeping the speedo mounted there. I have only run into one issue so far , the speedo has a single wire running out of the back for each indicator light and the indicator lights on the stock speedo have two wires coming out of the back of each. Can I just splice the new wire inline ?

[MrEd]

Your original idiot lights have two leads. For the turn signals, neutral and oil pressure, one lead is 12v power (for the lamps) and the other lead is for the switching.
The high beam has a 12v power with the other lead going to ground. Without looking at a schematic for your new speedo, it would be a guess to figure out
the new indicator wiring. Any schematic come with the new unit?
My guess would be the single wire is for switching with the actual light working from another 12v source in the speedo harness.

[wakethedead]

So the turns signals should be easy because there is a signal wire for each , the issue I have is when I get to the others because I'm not sure what to do with the extra wire that is coming out of the old indicator .

[MrEd]

OEM indicator lights:
OIL has two leads; one to 12v (orange wire inside the bucket) and one to the switch (green wire inside the headlight bucket).
NEUTRAL has two leads; one to 12v (orange wire inside the bucket) and one to switch (tan wire inside the headlight bucket).
HI BEAM has two leads; one pulling from headlight power and one to ground.
TURN has two leads; one to left and one to right.
All connections are at the 12 pin AMP connector mounted on top of the headlight bucket.

I believe the new OIL indicator wire is for the switch only and its getting 12v internally from the new red 12v supply wire.
The NEUTRAL is the same as well; just for the switch with 12v from the red wire.
The new HI BEAM wire goes to the original connection point (I assume grounding comes either from the actual housing or the black grounding wire).
TURNS are easy enough; one for each side.

If it were my bike in my garage, I'd fully remove both 12v leads from both the OIL and NEUTRAL OEM indicators at the AMP connector block and splice the new leads to the OEM switch wiring. You are going to have to pull out the headlight to see where the switch wiring is on the AMP connector.
The new Grey (oil) wire to the OEM green switch wire and the new Purple (neutral) to the OEM tan wire.

Disconnect the battery before going into the bird's nest and double check your work before restoring power. If all is good, hit the power and watch for smoke.
Seriously though, if you have any doubts, call their tech support to get the straight dope. That's better than frying a $200.00 speedo.

[wakethedead]

First of Mr.Ed , thank you for the help you were spot on I hooked it up like you advised and all is well . It came with a magnet based sensor but instead I opted for one of these http://www.amazon.com/BKRider-Electr...rhf_dp_p_img_6 . It works perfect no calibration needed .

[MrEd]

Glad to hear it worked out for you and thanks for posting the end result.