There are so many choices. The motor is the only part of the drivetrain I have so far. My thought, right now, is to use a BDL primary, a primo clutch, and mate it all to a baker 6n4. If any of you guys have had great success with other setups, I'd like to know. What about pulley sizes? I'm only 160 pounds and might need the advantage of easier kicking. I've owned stock shovels that kick and never had any problems., there. The motor is the low compression model without compression releases. These scooters have lots of parts , I don't want to buy them more than once. Thanks gang. Sweet T
Advice on setting up a 93" S&S Shovel as kick only
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I had a kick only trans on my 93"er, but mine has hi Comp. (9.5:1)
I finally gutted the transmission & put the parts into an elec. start case,
& now I have kick & Elec.
This was after 1 Broken kick pedal, 1 sheared key on the kicker gear, &
numerous shin & knee injuries (Mine & friends as well).
you're probably okay if You have lower compression, the compression
is mostly what you are fighting against when kicking over these death traps.Comment
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Runnin' a 93" normal comp and I'm 160 lbs as well. Ended up getting a 1" longer kicker arm, and it's totally fine.Comment
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Right on. I only asked because a reputable builder told me to invest in compression releases, make sure the gearing is setup to make it easier to turn over. He also said to not put a kicker on it. That should have tipped me off right there. Thanks.Comment
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I think he's exaggerating a little bit. With the high compression 93" I could see maybe needing the release, but not sure what he means by setting up the gearing to make it easier to kick. The extra inch or so on that kicker arm made all the difference in the world. A little leverage goes a long way. I'm also running the beefy baker kicker gears, and a completely rebuilt tranny from the ground up, with andrews guts in an STD case. If you're running the baker tranny, I would imagine that's going to be plenty strong enough. Cheers.Comment
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Mine has a 93" high comp, with an after market kicker. Not sure if the arm is longer but it's not that bad. I'm 200lbs and I can kick it fine. Usually use my right leg and kneel on the seat before I kick it though.
I'd rather kick it cold though usually one kick does it, once the things warm it's a pain to kick over.Comment
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Had a 93" hi-comp S&S bike a few Yeats back. Never had a problem kicking it over. I was around 215 at the time but it really didn't seem to take any extra effortComment
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your cam profile will have a lot to do with kicking compression.
I would suggest using a reputable engine builder to put that combination together.
The right cam profile vs. the wrong cam profile will make a tremendous difference in the kicking compression of the bike.
My old shovelhead was a 93" high compression motor and I ran it as a kick only magneto fired bike. Im only 185lbs and kicked the bike over just fine. Also if you are running a magneto on the bike do not go with the longer kicker arm, they do provide extra leverage but they don't get a fast rotation on the flywheels (which is what the magnetos prefer for easier starting)Comment
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but not sure what he means by setting up the gearing to make it easier to kick.Comment
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So. I'm sure it's been discussed may times. I only found a couple of threads. BUT...
What combo? I seem to see the most favorable reviews with a BDL and a Primo clutch. How wide a belt should I get? I'm new to all the new school stuff. Its usually been whatever I can find at the swap meet.Comment
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But the bdl for 400 clams , you can use a stick clutch in there , im running a Kevlar clutch in my shovel and im using a 3 finger hub i bougt an aftermarket pressure plate for I think 20 bucks set to 31/32 and it's still going after 5 yrs on the same clutch
93 kicks easy
This kicker bullshit is mostly from worn kicker parts and shitty pedals that snap off wich fucked me up last year buying a bike
So my advice is get a baker kicker kit if your parts are worn, I mention this as most overlook itComment
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