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  1. #21

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    Started cutting up my rear fender the other night. Slimmed it down 40mm, from 180mm. Rear tyre only reaches 110mm.
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    Turns out the holes drilled by the manufacturer aren't even in line. So I put the fender flat on a table and drew a line with help from a piece of metal. Then cut it free hand with the disc grinder.
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    Welded together.
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    And a quick mock-up.
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    Last edited by actionemil; 02-27-2015 at 3:07 AM.

  2. #22
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    don't see too many folks building bikes with dovetail frames.
    keep up the good work sir!

    keep us posted,

    leon

  3. #23
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    That rear fender turned out sweet! keep up the good work, i'm watching....

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by billybiltit View Post
    don't see too many folks building bikes with dovetail frames.
    keep up the good work sir!

    keep us posted,

    leon
    Quote Originally Posted by madmagnus View Post
    That rear fender turned out sweet! keep up the good work, i'm watching....
    Thanks guys! Really appreciate the feedback.

    Following your build as well, madmagnus. Looking good!

    Received this spool hub made by Derek Seiber (@derekseiber on instagram). It's a piece of art.
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    Last edited by actionemil; 02-27-2015 at 3:14 AM.

  5. #25

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    Been working on getting my gearbox together. 3'rd gear clutch was terrible, so it was slipping when under load. Took the opportunity to change to a late (long) 1'st gear, and an early (short) 3'rd. New shims, bushings, bearings, gaskets, shifter forks, screws etc. It's so smooth right now.

    Rick-rack shifter cover.
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    Main shaft.
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    These roller bearings are 0.81mm (0.032") over size. I've only seen ones that's 0.025 over size (0.001"), off ebay and such. Anyone seen these before?
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    Main shaft all together.
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    Think I'll get my engine together over the weekend. Put it in the frame and start making exhausts. Gonna make them in stainless steel and polish.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by actionemil View Post
    Thanks guys! Really appreciate the feedback.

    Following your build as well, madmagnus. Looking good!

    Received this spool hub made by Derek Seiber (@derekseiber on instagram). It's a piece of art.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice one, is it aluminum or steel, crome or polished? i'm thinking of making my own spoolhub and need (want) to know what material they are usually made from.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by madmagnus View Post
    Nice one, is it aluminum or steel, crome or polished? i'm thinking of making my own spoolhub and need (want) to know what material they are usually made from.
    They're aluminum. I'm thinking the same, to try and make a few.

    From Moon Bike show. My garage comrades.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 11037330_609085755891907_1848342122148223468_n.jpg  

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by actionemil View Post
    They're aluminum. I'm thinking the same, to try and make a few.

    From Moon Bike show. My garage comrades.
    I've seen those bikes before, great builds, both of them.

  9. #29

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    Excuse me for my absence. A lot of set-backs during the past few weeks. Among other things I found out my engine actually has 4-5/8" stroke, not 4-1/2". Flywheel id is R2880-2 LX, where the "-2" stands for the 4-1/2" stroke. Confirmed by S&S and also a dealer here in Sweden. Now the cylinders are too short. Ordered new cylinder base gasket (0,036") and head gasket (0.03"). Should get the right measures now.

    Removed the inspection hole nut and the thread was salad. Made a new thread, lathed a new nut. Removed the oil drain nut in the bottom of the block and the screw head got stripped. Fun times. At least the transmission is finished and all together. And I have a 96" engine.

    Lathed the cylinders at the top. Creating a grade for the gasket to compress harder at. That oil channel is too close to the edge.
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    Painted then fitted the cylinders. But this was before things went south. So need to remove them again and get the new gasket fitted.
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    Made a fixture to get the right bend on the struts for the rear fender.
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    Made shells and distances (?), all in stainless steel. Getting these polished later on.
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  10. #30
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    Looking good Emil, nice work on the fender struts.

  11. #31
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    nice work!

    leon

  12. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by madmagnus View Post
    Looking good Emil, nice work on the fender struts.
    Quote Originally Posted by billybiltit View Post
    nice work! leon
    Thanks guys!

    Did a compression test and it turned out to be almost 11. So I got a mate to cut out a 1.5mm thick piece of sheet metal to put between two cylinder foot gaskets. Calculated that I'll get about 9.5 then. And that will definitely do the trick.

    Finished lacing the front 21" VM1 rim with the Derek Seiber spool hub and buchanan spokes. Think I'll be going for an Avon Speedmaster 3.00" on this.
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    Did some grinding on the valve seats and got them fitted afterwards. Receiving some replacement nuts for the cam cover studs this week, so the engine should be finished by the weekend.
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  13. #33
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    Why would you use a spacer under the cylinder base, rather than just turn off a portion of the piston dome?

  14. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobbed06 View Post
    Why would you use a spacer under the cylinder base, rather than just turn off a portion of the piston dome?
    Hey! The cylinders are too short for the S&S 4-5/8" stroke, they are 135.5mm (4-1/2"), should be 138.2mm. So the piston reaches the flame edge in the cylinder (at the top). To make up for it I'll use spacers. I find it easier to calculate the increase for a spacer, rather than on a piston. And also to carry out the work is easier this way.

    Of course this means that I need to use double gaskets at the cylinder foot (one on each side of the spacer), but I'll glue them together.

    Sounds good?

  15. #35
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    I do this with snowmobile engines to raise port timing. I use locktite red sealer (its basically like locktite, but a little thicker) and the thinnest coat i can get and use two of the thinnest base gaskets i can find and sandwich the spacer in. havent had any problems with sealing.

  16. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Clockwork444 View Post
    I do this with snowmobile engines to raise port timing. I use locktite red sealer (its basically like locktite, but a little thicker) and the thinnest coat i can get and use two of the thinnest base gaskets i can find and sandwich the spacer in. havent had any problems with sealing.
    Nice. I used Yamabond 4. Usually does the trick.

    Fitted the stroker sheets, then the cylinder heads and valve covers. Intake, carb and air cleaner.
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    Started mocking up the bike last night after putting the engine together. Borrowed the pipes from a mate. Think I'll go for something similar.
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    After getting this web fork fitted I think I'll scratch the 35mm sportster fork. It was made by my mate "UK" (the guy with the red pansho on the yt link I shared). Borrowed my brothers front wheel as well. *rear wheel is not attached properly
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    Good weekend to ya'll. And thanks for all the support!
    Last edited by actionemil; 04-18-2015 at 10:54 AM.

  17. #37
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    yes, thats the way to go. You know, i have a secret lab in my basement working on a girder (webb) fork for the second gen of my build. hmmmm.... might just be in my head.

  18. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by madmagnus View Post
    yes, thats the way to go. You know, i have a secret lab in my basement working on a girder (webb) fork for the second gen of my build. hmmmm.... might just be in my head.
    I think we need to see a glimpse of that build right now!

    I've just finished plastic padding the rear fender, which probably took 20 f-ing hours.

    Sandblasting the frame.
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    Had my mate get some primer on the pieces that's about to get painted.
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    Replaced the original bracket with a cross. The plastic padding karma struck me right away...
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  19. #39

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    Painted tank. It needs some grinding before I attach the decals and then clear coating.
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    Turned out pretty good. Also considering its my first time.
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    I had to buy an over dimensioned swing arm axle last summer, because the threads in the frame bracket was really worn. Realised that the threads was even worse now with the axle not even threading. So I lathed a nut and made a 1/2" -20 thread inside of it. Lathed the axle down and made the same thread there.
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    Cut two flat sides on the head to be able to hold it with a wrench.
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    From the inside, where the axle will thread.
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  20. #40
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    very nice solution there sir!


    leon

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