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  1. #1
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    Default Stuck / Seized lower shock struts!

    These damn struts won't budge! I have soaked them in ever fluid that would do the trick . Hammered the fuck out of it on a block and no budge !!! Its my first swing arm build. I was wondering if it is normal for the lower struts to get stuck like this , and how to best remove it ?

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    Last edited by a40nabowl; 11-18-2014 at 2:12 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by a40nabowl View Post
    These damn struts won't budge! I have soaked them in ever fluid that would do the trick . Hammered the fuck out of it on a block and no budge !!! Its my first swing arm build. I was wondering if it is normal for the lower struts to get stuck like this , and how to best remove it ?

    Have you tried any heat???

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    Second the heat. Don't overheat the swingarm.

    You can cut off the outer part of the mount with a cutting disc then use a six-point socket, a large breaker bar, and a cheater pipe on the bar to move them better than a box-end wrench.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    Have you tried any heat???
    No heat, I figured if I head the swingarm, it would also heat the bolt and it would expand them both. I guess I can use a small flame and use a six-point socket like framall recommended as well.

    Do these lower struts get stuck like this? Is this common?

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    I'd cut the box end of a wrench, and slide a long pipe over it to get some leverage (using the open end on the "bolt").

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pendulum View Post
    I'd cut the box end of a wrench, and slide a long pipe over it to get some leverage (using the open end on the "bolt").
    Instead of cutting the wrench isn't it easier (and keeps a better grip) to put to box end on the nut you are removing and use the box end of another wrench on the open end of the wrench that's on the nut to get more leverage? I really hate cutting up tools because I was taught by my dad "Buy good tools, you only have to buy them once."

    Plus, I've always found open end wrenches like to open and slip on anything that is really tight.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pendulum View Post
    I'd cut the box end of a wrench, and slide a long pipe over it to get some leverage (using the open end on the "bolt").
    Haha, this is honestly the weirdest advice???


    The box end will grip better due to more edges making contact, and instead of cutting off part of the wrench why wouldnt you just get a piece of pipe with a larger diameter that can slide over the wrench as is?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bparsel View Post
    Haha, this is honestly the weirdest advice???


    The box end will grip better due to more edges making contact, and instead of cutting off part of the wrench why wouldnt you just get a piece of pipe with a larger diameter that can slide over the wrench as is?
    I personally don't keep pipe w/ that big of an ID around, and I'd rather sacrifice a wrench that I have multiples of than come up w/ a pipe that I'll probably not use again for a long time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Grantman View Post
    Instead of cutting the wrench isn't it easier (and keeps a better grip) to put to box end on the nut you are removing and use the box end of another wrench on the open end of the wrench that's on the nut to get more leverage? I really hate cutting up tools because I was taught by my dad "Buy good tools, you only have to buy them once."

    Plus, I've always found open end wrenches like to open and slip on anything that is really tight.
    Maybe you're confusing a crescent wrench w/ an open-end wrench? The reason I suggested using the open end rather than the box end is because the box end is more likely to round/strip the fastener in my experience on really stubborn stuff. As for cutting up a good wrench, I agree on that one. I try to keep extras for the common sized fasteners, because that way when someone needs to borrow it I don't have to loan out my good stuff (or when I have dumb ideas to cut/weld shit together to get a task done).

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    Ah, a six point box end wins over a clapped out twelve point anyday. Probably a cheap wrench too is my guess, if it's worth less than a length of pipe.
    Just busting your balls,Pendulum. And furthermore a (proper sized) crescent flexes open way less than an open end would
    Ever hook the box end of a larger wrench to the open end of the wrench in use? instant leverage. I keep an old fork tube around for macho occasions.
    Why is the OP removing the studs? And using such a short wrench??
    Applied heat and impacts are your friends

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sky View Post
    Ah, a six point box end wins over a clapped out twelve point anyday. Probably a cheap wrench too is my guess, if it's worth less than a length of pipe.
    Just busting your balls,Pendulum. And furthermore a (proper sized) crescent flexes open way less than an open end would
    Ever hook the box end of a larger wrench to the open end of the wrench in use? instant leverage. I keep an old fork tube around for macho occasions.
    Why is the OP removing the studs? And using such a short wrench??
    Applied heat and impacts are your friends
    OP is trying to remove the lower struts to have them machined to take on the DYNA shocks that have a smaller diameter. The DYNA shocks have a metal sleeve that does not allow the older struts to enter. And yes, this is a cheap ass wrench.

  11. #11

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    Less arguing about wrenches, more heat!

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    i just did the same mod a week ago, except i just swapped out the metal sleeves on the dyna shocks and used the sleeves from my older style shocks.. i tapped them out with a small deep well socket.. keep it simple..

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    HEAT!!!
    I first saw the heat trick many years ago after fighting something that was froze for days. Grey beard came by and I asked for advice...... maybe a min later it broke loose with almost no effort.
    70% of the time it works every time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by greaseTrap View Post
    i just did the same mod a week ago, except i just swapped out the metal sleeves on the dyna shocks and used the sleeves from my older style shocks.. i tapped them out with a small deep well socket.. keep it simple..
    I have new sets of bushing for the old school shocks , but they don't have sleeves. Can I run it without sleeves ? So you are saying the sleeve in the DYNA is in there with pressure and no sort of adhesive is holding it against the rubber and can be hammered out?

    You got a photo ? I only ask for a photo since the older lower strut is longer then the DYNA chamber, so I wanted to see what you did with the extra space. Thanks
    Last edited by a40nabowl; 11-20-2014 at 3:53 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by a40nabowl View Post
    I have new sets of bushing for the old school shocks , but they don't have sleeves. Can I run it without sleeves ? So you are saying the sleeve in the DYNA is in there with pressure and no sort of adhesive is holding it against the rubber and can be hammered out?

    You got a photo ? I only ask for a photo since the older lower strut is longer then the DYNA chamber, so I wanted to see what you did with the extra space. Thanks

    Post a pick of the shocks you want to use. And yes you MUST have the metal spacer in the bushing!!!!
    The metal sleeve will tap out

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    Quote Originally Posted by greaseTrap View Post
    Post a pick of the shocks you want to use. And yes you MUST have the metal spacer in the bushing!!!!
    The metal sleeve will tap out
    The ones I want to use are the DYNA with the metal sleeve. The ones that came off are the old 14" shovelhead shocks that do not have metal sleeves. So I bought bushings for the old shovelheads shocks, then wanted to run the 12" Dyna shocks instead. The upper struts worked out by buying the late model struts that fit the hole in the frame, but the lower swing arm struts have to be machined or the easy rout, which is modifying the bushings on the DYNA shocks.

    Who makes the sleeves that you bought to replace them with? you have a part number or name or link I can find the same replacement sleeves you used?
    Thanks man.

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    Last edited by a40nabowl; 11-20-2014 at 9:56 PM.

  17. #17
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    the wrench is way too short to get leverage you need, the one on my 454 was on there like crazy (bike sat outside for over 10 years) I had to lock the one side with a wrench wedged into the frame with my 1/2 inch drive socket wrench with a 18 inch handle on the other side, then feet on the bottom of the frame and pull it towards me in a rowing motion it leaning back pulling as hard as I could... it made 3 fart sounds and me possibly one, managed a quarter turn then it danced right on off. But with that tiny wrench you could try jamming the other side and standing on it, that's the only way it might work with a wrench that small, aside sliding the end into a pipe... that wrench isn't going to do the job, if it was on there like mine.

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    Hardware stores often sell steel "bushings" which are basically steel sleeves. Find a non-shit hardware store and bring your appropriate stud measurements and one shock if you like.

    Stainless washers make nice shims to keep your shock absorber vertical. Bringing parts with you to the store saves trips.

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