CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search
Page 1 of 2 12 Last
  1. #1
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    33

    Default 1200 Evo Springer Chopper Build

    Hi, little background before we begin the build thread...

    You can refer to me as Garcia, I am a 25yr old engineer who loves building things and riding. Spent last summer turning a 2000 883 sporty into a bobber for all under $3000 including the stock bike. That was a lot of fun and I learned a lot from it. This time around I want to go bigger and really "build" a bike. I came across a roller on CL few months ago so I snatched it up. Now that I have room in my garage I plan on starting the build. Now onto the details...

    I need to find a top clamp (might just have one machined) also needs the correct wheel bearings for the front wheel

    This is my first real build so hopefully I can use the forums to answer alot of my questions and learn alot along the way

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	00L0L_agRiSuuopDE_600x450_zpsabb1ab9e.jpg 
Views:	346 
Size:	40.2 KB 
ID:	51743
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20140614_130046_564_zpsae30f141.jpg 
Views:	227 
Size:	67.8 KB 
ID:	51744
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	size difference.jpg 
Views:	345 
Size:	47.6 KB 
ID:	51745
    (yes, I ride sportbikes as well... deal with it haha)
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	10659287_2964396266149_6544086493066783095_n.jpg 
Views:	213 
Size:	40.1 KB 
ID:	51746
    My build table I put together
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	10696418_2964396546156_3765645346725056331_n.jpg 
Views:	202 
Size:	39.6 KB 
ID:	51747

    UPDATE:
    Things I want to do for those who are interested...
    - peanut tank
    - not quite sure on the handlebars (maybe drag or just some slightly angled low nothing special)
    - custom short exhaust that comes down with 2 turn up pieces, wrapped (hard to explain)
    - solo springer seat
    - small sissy bar if any
    - rear wheel has broken spoke, need to repair
    - blacked out motor/trans (depending on how the donor bike looks)
    - velocity stack carb (either straight out to right side or tall vertical, need to look into)
    - open primary (NOT likely going to happen, trying to stick to a budget)
    - kickstart (NOT likely due to budget)
    - I'm not a big chrome fan so contemplating powdercoating alot of the chrome black (except little accent pieces like springer springs, etc)

    Things I still have to learn so feel free to teach me a thing or two here...
    - Where is a good site to find front wheel bearings and center spacer by size instead of looking them up for a specific bike?
    - I don't see any tabs on the front end for brakes, this will complicate things IF I want brakes on the front wheel correct?
    - how hard is it to change the rear drum to a disk brake, I would think I could just remove the hub and use a sprocket/rotor on the right side and leave the left clean (finding a replacement hub to clean it up)

  2. #2
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    514

    Default

    Take the time to read up and follow some builds. It's incredible how many questions you may have are answered from simple posts around here. You can count out an open primary (even if you had the money) because you're building a Sportster. There's a kick start kit from Led Sled but it'll run you somewhere around $1000.

    Gonna need to swap the rear wheel (or just hub and get it relaced) to run a disc brake in the rear.

  3. #3
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    33

    Default

    So I measured the front hub and axle and came out with the following measurements but when looking up bearings in the Timken catalog I didn't see one close enough to the OD

    ID - 15.80mm
    OD - 45.00mm

    Here is what I found in the catalog

    tapered single row Type TS

    15.875 ID (which seams right)
    42.862 or 47.00 OD (neither seem right, unless you want it a whole 2mm larger to press in but I doubt that)

    Can anyone help me out with this?

    Ohyea... and I picked this up for a donor bike
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	donor bike loaded.jpg 
Views:	162 
Size:	63.9 KB 
ID:	52080

  4. #4
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    83

    Default

    I like your roller.

  5. #5
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tear dow 2'.jpg 
Views:	99 
Size:	61.9 KB 
ID:	52276
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tear down 1.jpg 
Views:	102 
Size:	69.5 KB 
ID:	52277

  6. #6
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    33

    Default

    sorry been slacking on updates, mostly been updating on xlforum




  7. #7
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    705

    Default

    Question, won't blocking the airflow from the front of the frame essentially defeat the purpose? Its an air cooled engine, it needs airflow right?..

  8. #8
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    572

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by garcia2389 View Post
    sorry been slacking on updates, mostly been updating on xlforum



    motors gonna overheat

  9. #9
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FatChibs View Post
    Question, won't blocking the airflow from the front of the frame essentially defeat the purpose? Its an air cooled engine, it needs airflow right?..
    didn't think about that, I can always cut them out but... why would Paughco make the frame like that knowing its for an air cooled engine then?

  10. #10
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    113

    Default

    Garcia2389 is the front of the frame solid or is it louvered like a old hotrod to allow some airflow

  11. #11
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by countryboychop View Post
    Garcia2389 is the front of the frame solid or is it louvered like a old hotrod to allow some airflow
    louvered... will this allow enough air?

  12. #12
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    113

    Default

    It shud allow some. Depends on how wide the gap is an the way they r directed

  13. #13
    Cisco726
    Guest

    Default

    You can always widen the vents as well. Might help if they aren't wide enough or there isn't enough airflow. Maybe put a high flow fan or a blower fan in front on high and put your hand on the other side to test it?

  14. #14
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    68

    Default

    I'm pretty sure you can knock those out pretty easy. They prob use those so during shipping noting gets bent.

  15. #15
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    33

    Default

    I'm going to attempt the fan check, I kinda like the look, before I go cutting things out

  16. #16
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Just throwing some parts on for looks, trying to get some inspiration as I'm building (currently working on the wiring harness and where to run/locate everything)




  17. #17
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    33

    Default

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ecm box 1.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	55.2 KB 
ID:	57321
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ecm box.jpg 
Views:	70 
Size:	68.6 KB 
ID:	57322

    Ended up making a box for the ignition, push start button, low/hi beam switch, ignition control module/wires

  18. #18
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    33

    Default

    update: mocking up exhaust from donor bike for now, new oil tank, will run oil lines tomorrow and figure out how to mount the oil tank to the frame

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20150411_200307_350.jpg 
Views:	101 
Size:	293.0 KB 
ID:	58837
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20150411_200422_583.jpg 
Views:	176 
Size:	305.1 KB 
ID:	58838

  19. #19
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    124

    Thumbs up

    From someone who's owned a dozen Sportsters... If you are only going to ride it on the open Highway, it will survive. If you live in a City and get stuck in Traffic you will Coook that engine. A fan, yea that will work but it's going to noisy. I like the lines of the bike, it looks good but... that Cool Louver would end up on the shop floor.

  20. #20
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    769

    Default

    I think its hilarious how worried you are about that. That little bit of frame section isnt going to hurt the motor. Have you looked at a newer bike? the voltage regulator is bolted in that spot, and the frame is beefier and covers up the spot above that. Not to mention a big ass fender (on a stock bike mind you) and a front wheel? the front tire itself cuts the air and not much flow is hitting that point. Aside from this.... if airflow to the center of the cylinders was the only thing keeping it together, how would the rear cylinder last? its behind the front one! LMAO.

    air cooled engines are designed to run a little hotter than a liquid cooled engine. thats why they have looser piston-to-wall clearances and looser ring end gaps. it allows for more thermal expansion/contraction without catastrophic failure. The fins on the SIDE of the cylinders are what transfer about 30% of the engine's heat. Another 15% or so is released through the oil system (which is why you have a big sump (oil tank) so the oil has time to cool before it is used again) and the rest goes out the exhaust as waste.

    That cover on the frame isnt GOOD for cooling, but its not gonna make your engine blow up. Now if you were trying to do something stupid like shave off the cooling fins on the cylinders, you'd be having some obvious problems down the road.

Share This



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in