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  1. #1

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    Join Date
    Dec 2009

    Default cb350 won't idle right with light switch on

    i have a 73 cb350 twin that runs perfect besides when the light swtich is turned on. plugs are right on, 190 psi compression both cylinders, just hit 8000 miles.

    once the switch is turned on the left cylinder misses under 2500 rpm. the right cylinder works fine. once i open the throttle both will fire once the engine reaches 2500 rpm. when i try to open just the left side carb blade it just stumbles and fires erratically.

    i spent all day trying to figure it out. the neutral light dims when the kill switch is turned to the on position but this doesnt seem to be an issue since the bike runs fine with the light switch off.

    i removed both the headlight and tailight bulb and it made no difference. i tried multiple condensors including a brand new one and had no effect. swapped between two working coils with no effect. tried multiple light switches with no effect. rebuilt the light switch im using and had no effect. disconnected the elec. start solenoid and that had no effect. checked over some of the wiring, adjusted the points, changed the left hand points then changed to a points setup off another motor, nothing has an effect on the problem. also removed the horn and flasher box since neither were working anyway.

    i have a couple old regulators in the parts pile and a couple old crusty rectifiers i can try but havent gotten to yet. i also have not got the chance to try a different battery but may be able to by tomorrow. i have a couple spare stators as well. is seems like either the battery or charging system at this point.

    im losing my mind with this thing. it's all i have to ride while i build the other bike. anyone have any ideas on what to check so i can ride at night as well as daytime?

  2. #2
    Junior Member

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    Join Date
    Sep 2009


    This is typical of the Honda cb350 when the battery is weak, dead, complete crap or the stator is on it's way out. Reason it runs good over the 2.5K mark is that you are finally making enough charging voltage to overcome the loss at the lower RPMS.

    I've been down this road, pulled my hair out trying to figure it out my first time too.
    Good luck with it

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