Front Brake Bleeding Trouble on Sportster build

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  • Goozgaz
    Member
    • Nov 2013
    • 32

    #16
    Originally posted by Braaap
    fuck the bubbles and fuck the mightyvac - use 1/4" tubing and an oral or cooking syringe to reverse fill thru the bleeder valve with the positive pressure from the syringe. watch the res fill up, cap it and be done. if it still has any issues rebuild the mc, and/or try to bleed it traditionally after the positive pressure syringe fill

    +1 on the thread tape for the bleeder.
    +1 on the syringe. Works like a charm.

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    • AussieXL
      Junior Member
      • Nov 2015
      • 23

      #17
      Had the same issue after replacing front brake line because removing apes. Bleed for ages with no success, ended up bleeding at master cylinder banjo bolt. Hold lever down, Crack bolt let air/fluid escape, retighten, release lever and repeat. Once I was getting no air from top I bleed at the nipple like normal to finish off. They must get an air lock in the master when completely empty

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      • Nottso
        Senior Member
        • Apr 2012
        • 756

        #18
        If I have one that doesn't want to bleed, I follow a similar procedure to Joel in post #2, with one minor change. I remove the master cylinder cover, pull the brake lever all the way in, and zip-tie it like that overnight. While it's tied, I'll go out and tap on the brake line a few times. This has never failed me yet, even on those that still wouldn't bleed after trying every other "can't miss" method I ever heard of.

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