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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by wompin View Post
    What year range is this the case for? Ive heard some guys say the ignition is the same and some say its different. It sucks tryin to sort out contradictory internet wisdom
    Looking on the parts microfiche @ Ronnie's HD site, ign. for year 2000
    883 p/n 32466-98
    1200 p/n 32465-98
    VOES sw. both 26558-94


    Sent with :-)

  2. #22
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    Default Valve Lapping

    So Ive been waiting forever for my cylinder kit to come in. I guess they sent it to california accidentally.

    Anyway I got the heads cleaned up and lapped the valves tonight. The exhaust valves and some spots on the intake seat have some pitting. Im not sure if this is severe or acceptable. I never noticed any weird power or compression issues while running it this past season. The combustion chamber did have a fair amount of carbon build up though.

    I lapped each valve/seat for a total of probably 30 sec to 1 min lifting and tapping periodically.

    Any thoughts?






  3. #23
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    Never pulled apart a motorcycle head to lap my own valves but one trick I learned that made the job a lot faster and easier for cars was to use a cordless drill attached to the valve stems. I don't know how severe the pitting is since I can't really tell on my iPhone so I can't say.

  4. #24
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    Those pits are unacceptable. You need to lap for a little longer or the valve seats need to be cut and the valves ground. The whole purpose of lapping a valve is for a completely clean smooth seal. Do it right while it is apart. If you send this to a machine shop you should also price out a larger intake valve job.

  5. #25
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    Wow that sucks. What affect does this type of pitting have? The bike was running like a cherry for the last 15000 miles. . .

    Im gonna try lapping them a bit longer. If I sent the heads to a machine shop I think my wife will cut my balls off in my sleep (aka Im broke from buying diapers)
    Last edited by wompin; 11-30-2013 at 11:21 AM.

  6. #26
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    I had a set of heads done, 3 angled and everything and it was pretty cheap actually. I'd just lap them longer if I were you.

  7. #27
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    mmmmkay

    What is pretty cheap if you dont mind me askin? Im a pretty cheap guy so I might be able to swing it.

    In the mean time Im gonna lap em a bit and try not to eat away the whole face. Updates in an hour or so...

  8. #28
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    Yup, lap your balls off! Ha, either lap your balls off or send heads to a machine shop and your wife will cut your balls off. End result either way is ball-less Wompin

  9. #29
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    I think it was like 100 bucks here in nc.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by junkyardxl View Post
    I think it was like 100 bucks here in nc.
    That also included decking and the valve works and vat cleaning

  11. #31
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    I worked on the valves a little more but the pitting still shows and I dont want to make the seat contact area too wide.

    I see a couple options:

    1. reasseble and pour carb cleaner in, check for leaks, if none im "good" ($0)
    2. buy new exhaust valves, reassemble, go (approx $40 - $80)
    3. have valves n seats re-cut and mated ($100 +/-)


    If I buy new valves, do I need the seats recut anyway or can I just check for leaks or lap a bit and check for leaks?

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by daroberts3 View Post
    Yup, lap your balls off! Ha, either lap your balls off or send heads to a machine shop and your wife will cut your balls off. End result either way is ball-less Wompin
    I suppose it was always inevitable. fuck me

  13. #33
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    Just ordered a pair of kibblewhite black diamond exhaust valves, std size for $65. They are nitride coated to supposedly resist heat and wear. Thanks for the input guys

    I should be getting the jugs, pistons, and valves next week, so Ill be following up next weekend probably. That is unless they ship my stuff to california again.

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