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The question always gets asked, " How do I clean out the ( whatever ) from my gas tank? The answers are always the same; nuts and bolts, BB's, acid, acetone, boil it out, burn it out and any number of other methods. The truth is that what you use is determined by what you're trying to remove. Well here's one that will get rid of it all. Now you can de-skank your tank with "THE CRANK."
Here's the parts list available at hardware stores everywhere for about six bucks.
36" piece of 1/4" wire cable
12" piece of 3/8" wire cable
12" piece of 3/8" I.D. plastic or rubber hose.
First I cut the 1/4" cable into 3 10" pieces. This length can change to suit your needs.
Then I measured 1 1/2" from the end and tack welded them to the 3/8" cable.
Once all three were in place I welded them in tight then welded over the other end of the 3/8" cable to keep it from unraveling.
Next I frayed the ends of the small cables so they can scratch at the metal surfaces as they flail around inside the tank.
The final step in the process is to slip the rubber hose over the end of the 3/8" cable. I cut mine to about 6 inches. This will allow you to save the skin on your hand as you support the cable while the whole thing flails around inside the tank.
You can probably skip the rubber hose if you prefer to wear work gloves.
To use the tool just chuck it up into your hand drill, stick the frayed ends down into the filler neck and hit the trigger. Push and pull it in and out of the tank so the cables can get at all areas of the tank. The tool cleans with the frayed ends and the sides of the cables as they slap around removing rust, scale and old, pealing tank liner.
After about 5 minutes, depending on how much skank is in the tank, stick the end of a garden hose into the filler neck and let it run for a few minutes to flush/float out the loosened debris. Then finish up with a rinse of really hot water. When you pour out the water the metal will still be hot thus helping any left over water to evaporate quickly. Once the tank has dried, squirt in some spray oil to protect the newly cleaned surfaces.
That's it. That's the whole game. Quick, dirty and cheap - just like sex.
Here's the parts list available at hardware stores everywhere for about six bucks.
36" piece of 1/4" wire cable
12" piece of 3/8" wire cable
12" piece of 3/8" I.D. plastic or rubber hose.
First I cut the 1/4" cable into 3 10" pieces. This length can change to suit your needs.
Then I measured 1 1/2" from the end and tack welded them to the 3/8" cable.
Once all three were in place I welded them in tight then welded over the other end of the 3/8" cable to keep it from unraveling.
Next I frayed the ends of the small cables so they can scratch at the metal surfaces as they flail around inside the tank.
The final step in the process is to slip the rubber hose over the end of the 3/8" cable. I cut mine to about 6 inches. This will allow you to save the skin on your hand as you support the cable while the whole thing flails around inside the tank.
You can probably skip the rubber hose if you prefer to wear work gloves.
To use the tool just chuck it up into your hand drill, stick the frayed ends down into the filler neck and hit the trigger. Push and pull it in and out of the tank so the cables can get at all areas of the tank. The tool cleans with the frayed ends and the sides of the cables as they slap around removing rust, scale and old, pealing tank liner.
After about 5 minutes, depending on how much skank is in the tank, stick the end of a garden hose into the filler neck and let it run for a few minutes to flush/float out the loosened debris. Then finish up with a rinse of really hot water. When you pour out the water the metal will still be hot thus helping any left over water to evaporate quickly. Once the tank has dried, squirt in some spray oil to protect the newly cleaned surfaces.
That's it. That's the whole game. Quick, dirty and cheap - just like sex.
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