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  1. #1
    ARBY
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    Default Gas Tank TECH: Filler neck / Sight gauge

    To most people here this might be a basic maneuver, but to those with limited shop equipment it can seem like a daunting task. Here's how you can do it with a few simple hand tools.

    All you need are the right parts, a few tools, a little patience and some time.

    Parts List:

    Sportster King tank - new or used.
    Short piece (about 4" long) of 2 1/8" exhaust pipe. (Get a piece of extention pipe with the 2" step down and it'll fit right into your gas bung.)
    Gas cap bung. I salvaged the old one after I cut it out.
    Petcock bung. I used a new one but you can salvage the original.
    A piece of 3/4" round stock.
    Two 1/8NPT 90 degree elbows.
    Some clear, 5/16 gas line.
    Two black wire ties.
    Some body filler and sand paper.
    Tank sealer kit.

    Tools:

    Electric drill with 3/8" chuck.
    MIG or TIG welder. Hell, there's no stress in any of these areas so you could even braze it. If you don't weld you can have it all done for about $30.oo.
    2 1/8" hole saw.
    3/4" drill bit.
    Round metal file.


    Getting Started.

    OK. First thing ya wanna do is cut out the stock gas filler bung. If you have a plasma cutter this is a snap. If you don't yer gonna need some patience to cut around the bung with a hand saw. Take heart, that's how I did it. Once you have that out, cut out a round piece of flat sheet metal and weld it in the hole. Next I flipped the tank over, cut out the stock petcock bung and welded up the hole with another piece of flat sheet metal

    Now decide where you want the new extended (or flush)filler neck to be. I placed mine as high on the tank as I could, that way I can squeeze as much gas into the tank as possible. I center punched for the hole and using the 2 1/8" hole saw, made the cut. Easy on the drill speed here. Don't let the hole saw wobble around and egg-shape the friggin' hole or grab the metal on the cut-through and bend the tank.

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    Next. Clean up the bottom edge of the gas filler bung (I used the same one I originally cut out of the tank) and weld it onto the piece of exhaust pipe. Decide how tall you want the neck to be and add about a half inch to set below the surface of the tank. Cut off the excess. Once that's done, position the new neck in the hole making sure it's plumb - ok, straight, square, whatever and weld da bitch in.

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    Now it's time to decide where the new petcock bung is gonna go. I mounted mine on the left side as far back as I could so I can get every available drop of gas out of the tank. Plus, mounting it on the side looks cool as shit!!!

    Hold the pectcock bung in place and mark the center. Center punch it and drill a 1/4 inch starter hole. Finish it off with the 3/4 inch bit. Then clean up the hole with your round file. Careful, don't open it up too much. You want the bung to be a snug fit. Now weld it up.

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    Guess what. We're almost finished! Next is one of the more critical steps. If you futch this up it'll look like shit. Now, if you're a little faint of heart you can stop here and still have a really sweet lookin' tank. But if yer balls are swelling with pride from what you've already accomplished then lets move on.

    If you're a guy who likes the sight glass thing, you'll need to drill two 3/4 inch holes for the gas level guage. If you like, you can locate them on the side or the top. As you can see I decided on the top.

    I ran a piece of masking tape straight down the center of the tank and with a fexible straight edge marked a line. I spaced my holes at 5 1/2 inches apart, center punched them and drilled 1/4" pilot holes. I enlarged them with the 3/4" bit and cleaned up the holes with a round file.

    Throughout the entire process, make sure you keep removing as much of the metal shavings as possible from inside the tank.

    Then I took the 3/4" round stock, drilled it and cut off two 1/2" long pieces to use as bungs.Since I don't have a lathe I had to settle for a drill press but I suppose you could even use a hand drill. Then I tapped them to accept the 1/8NPT 90 degree chrome elbows. I set the finished products into the holes and welded them in place.

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    After dressing up all the welds with a die grinder I pressure tested the tank for leaks. Then I degreased and cleaned the inside of the tank thoroughly and let it dry. I used to be a fan of tank sealers but now if I find any pin holes or weld flaws I melt in lead to seal any leaks. But if you've had good luck with sealers now would be the time to use it then pressure test again.

    Then I touched up the filler neck, petcock bung and gas level bungs with body filler. After sanding everything down I primed it up and got it ready for paint.

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    After I painted (with a rattle can) and installed it, I screwed in the 90 degree elbows, cut a piece of clear tubing and pushed it on. Then I used wire ties installed VERY tightly to hold the tube on the fittings. They never leak.

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    .And there you have it. The finished product installed on the choppa.
    Last edited by ARBY; 10-02-2013 at 6:51 PM.

  2. #2
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    I'm loving the new orange old man. Gimme a call when you want to get together. Working nights as always! 2 weeks till the wedding!

  3. #3
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    Holy hell Arby! I can get behind this post of yours! I didn't think this tree hugging dirt worshiper would ever be able to say so!

    I dig the orange too man. I've got a repop model t sight gauge that I'm planning on sticking to my scoot when I pull the tank off(whenever its too nasty out to ride for a bit). Thanks for the post

  4. #4
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    Im dealing with pin holes at the moment. Please explain the whole process of melting in lead.

  5. #5
    Knuckleduster
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    lead is soft, and has a fairly low melting point, I think he's talking about using a small piece of lead, directly on the pinhole, then apply heat (propane torch) directly to the lead, for a few seconds, the lead melts, and seals the pin hole, instantly. Similar to soldering, I would guess.

  6. #6
    ARBY
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    Exactly. But don't use the rosin core solder you'd use for wiring. Here's what I use.

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    Clean and degrease the area to be sealed, I use lacquer thinner or acetone,apply some stay-clean and smear it around. Then I use a pencil torch to lay in the solder. Once I get it flowing I press it in with a hardwood paddle. A little paraffin wax on the paddle helps the lead spread like butter.

    After it cools sand it smooth just like you would sand anything else only do this in a well ventilated area (not your kitchen) and wear a mask. Ya don't want lead poisoning do ya?

    If your tank has had gas in it make DAMN SURE you get it ALL out and scour the inside to remove all traces of vapor. You'll probably blow yourself up if you don't. An open flame near your gas tank is not for the timid or the careless. I'm a professional, don't try this without adult supervision.
    Last edited by ARBY; 10-11-2013 at 8:34 AM.

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    Looks pretty cool.

    What type of clear hose do you use? Any specific type?


    This modern crap unleaded shyte fuel seems to eat rubber hose if you don't have the correct one. I'd hate to suddenly get my balls washed with gas when riding.

  8. #8
    Knuckleduster
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    My dad told me he learned how to weld on tractor gas tanks, with gas (diesel) in them, put a garden hose in it, and fill it up, no dead space= no vapors, the same can be achieved with a bit of dry ice and a little water, the Carbon Dioxide gases produced by melting dry ice, will displace the fuel vapors. Make sure to drain before using.
    Last edited by Knuckleduster; 10-11-2013 at 4:40 PM.

  9. #9
    ARBY
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knuckleduster View Post
    My dad told me he learned how to weld on tractor gas tanks, with gas (diesel) in them, put a garden hose in it, and fill it up, no dead space= no vapors, the same can be achieved with a bit of dry ice and a little water, the Carbon Dioxide gases produced by melting dry ice, will displace the fuel vapors. Make sure to drain before using.
    I've heard of both those things.

  10. #10
    ARBY
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    Quote Originally Posted by KingHerald View Post
    Looks pretty cool.

    What type of clear hose do you use? Any specific type?


    This modern crap unleaded shyte fuel seems to eat rubber hose if you don't have the correct one. I'd hate to suddenly get my balls washed with gas when riding.


    Plain old ACE hardware hose. I buy 6 feet at about .40 a foot and keep changing it when it turns yellow. I get about a month out of a piece.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARBY View Post
    Plain old ACE hardware hose. I buy 6 feet at about .40 a foot and keep changing it when it turns yellow. I get about a month out of a piece.[/B]
    Cool. Thanks. We actually have an ACE Hardware where I live in the Philippines. so I shall pay them a visit.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARBY View Post
    I've heard of both those things.
    Yeah, you can also run a pipe from your car exhaust and fill it up with that It's basically an inert gas so displaces the air in the tank. No air, no ignition

  13. #13
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    i bought some clear fuel line on ebay, was for jet skis or something. lasted 2 years on one piece though. was like 5 bucks for 6'.

  14. #14
    ARBY
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnygra View Post
    i bought some clear fuel line on ebay, was for jet skis or something. lasted 2 years on one piece though. was like 5 bucks for 6'.
    That's a pretty good deal. I bought some in a lawnmower shop And after about 6 months that got hard and turn brown. Best fuel line I've ever seen is the stuff that comes with the SS carburetors

  15. #15

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    I used some clear beer hose left over from my kegerator and it is going on 2 years strong with no yellowing and no problems.

  16. #16
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    What does this add capacity wise?

  17. #17
    ARBY
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    Maybe a quart/ three pints more capacity. But it allows you to get at pretty much ALL the gas in the tank.

  18. #18
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    LEAD! Thanks Arby. Ive been chasing a pinhole with a tig torch. Seems all i ever do is move it around. Ive been band~aiding the hole with stickers for a year now.....

  19. #19
    ARBY
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    Quote Originally Posted by wickedblockhead View Post
    LEAD! Thanks Arby. Ive been chasing a pinhole with a tig torch. Seems all i ever do is move it around. Ive been band~aiding the hole with stickers for a year now.....
    I know what yer sayin'.

  20. #20
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    I can't see the pics... it just has a link saying "Free Web Proxy" ?

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