Let's See Some: Chopped wiring diagrams!

[Thamuz]

How about a seriously chopped bare bones for a 79 yami Xs11s. I got this bucket with solid state ignition. Since I know I am going to need blinkers, got to have them too. Just not 2 bliker modules wired in series.... whoever killed the harness was about as bright as 1 watt bulb with no power....

[iHaQtiv8]

Before I go yanking my harness using the previous pages diags, is there any major changes in the wiring from the 79-82 GS550 to my 83 GS550L? The styling was radically changed, hate to paint myself into a corner. Mainly trying to eliminate unneeded crap and simplify charging. Seems like a gremlin is keeping me from getting my 13.7-14.4

[Guest]

Hey it took a bit for me to see this post, so much time goes by without stuff here I forget to look at this thread sometimes.

But here yah go this should work just fine.



Since you want blinkers, here's quick list/suggestion for how; get you a switch, a flasher unit, and length of blue wire enough to hit all four blinkers, roughly 16-18 feet total is about average for blinkers. So wire your blinkers in the flasher and switch then tie the power source into the orange wire you see for the horn, in the diagram... if you dont want a horn then just nix that out and use that connection for the blinker power.

[Guest]

I have seen a diagram for the GS550 from 79-83 so my guess is the same. But bear in mind if any changes very little has been added... I say added because they never delete shit In any case if there is a difference in the main wiring systems... it will be in color only so imagine the wires solid black and unlabeled on every diagram; whats the difference then? Same basic components yeah? connect the dots are all the wire is so color doesn't matter.

[Thamuz]

thanks Jet! just what I needed. I still got loads to do on the bike anyway. When the time comes for rewire, Im ready now.

[Guest]

thanks Jet! just what I needed. I still got loads to do on the bike anyway. When the time comes for rewire, Im ready now.

Word

[cros36]

bike ran without key, but im wanting to put one on. using a lowbrow tumbler. (b) (ig) (l)

sorry about the poor quality of the picture. from left to right from 'main switch' is (Gr) (y) (b) (wr) (g) (bw)

my question is where would (wr) go on the key switch?
i have the battery grounded to frame so that deletes (bw) from switch
(gr) (y) (b) go to (ig) on switch
(g) goes to lights

would (wr) go to (b) battery?

or should the ignition system not even be on the switch. ive never messed with a magneto system...seems like putting 6v to the ignition system might not be a good idea...

[Guest]

Hmm, does it currently have a switch? Bikes this old you could typically take the key out when it was in the on position. Just trying to figure out if someone got chopping on the wires at some point if they are stock... if they have been hacked then you may be opening up a can of worms, if you just don't want someone running off with it since you don't need a key... then you can put in a hidden toggle off the coil wire; (Black) I believe on your diagram.

But if you want to wire it in the back of the switch should be pretty standard, You do need a good ground on the switch to be able to act as a kill for the off position, I'm not familiar with lowbrows switch if it can self ground or not; where it has a spot for ground might as well slap it on there. But the rest of how it wires is all the other wires go to the acc post and the battery to wire to the batt on the switch. So basically how it functions is in the ON position all the other shit gets power from the battery through the switch connecting them all together, and when you switch it to off it disconnects everything from having power from the + battery wire.

Magnetos are cool I prefer them to be honest, you can run completely battery/capacitor free if you want too... shaves weight and makes room and well you can't be left stranded or bump start if you have a dead battery, kicking is enough to energize the coils for spark/ignition.

[cros36]

jetblack,
it does have a stock switch but the key was missing. the harness was completely stock and no funny business was going on. but like i said it would start and run without it. so i wanted to put a key on it and had a lowbrow dude laying around.
on the back of the switch there are three locations. (b) (ig) and (l).

my main concern is feeding the ignition system 6v and what to do with (wr). if i wire the ignition system to the back of the switch then it will be fed voltage from the battery.

so would
(gr) (y) (b) go to (ig) on switch
(g) goes to (l) on switch
and (wr) to (B) on switch
seem correct?

thank you

[Guest]

jetblack,
it does have a stock switch but the key was missing. the harness was completely stock and no funny business was going on. but like i said it would start and run without it. so i wanted to put a key on it and had a lowbrow dude laying around.
on the back of the switch there are three locations. (b) (ig) and (l).

my main concern is feeding the ignition system 6v and what to do with (wr). if i wire the ignition system to the back of the switch then it will be fed voltage from the battery.

so would
(gr) (y) (b) go to (ig) on switch
(g) goes to (l) on switch
and (wr) to (B) on switch
seem correct?

thank you

You want battery power to the switch, of course you don't want to leave it in the "ON" position for more than a minute or so or else you'll fry your coil this is just how the oldies operated, otherwise it's all good the components if functional are rated to handle it.

If the back of the switch goes... Battery, Ignition, L (lights) then yes you are correct, the WR wire goes into the selenium rectifier off the battery and from the rect into the ignition switch as the battery wire in the circuit.

Oh on another note if you go down to your suzuki dealer or a good locksmith with the number stamped in the switch they should be able to cut you a key for the one that's already on it.

[cros36]

Jetblack. Thanks for the help so far. Had to put a toggle in for the lights (orange before switch, tail light always on)

Now I'm getting no spark. Any ideas on why? Yellow green and black on one ring on the back of the key switch. W/r on battery on back of switch.

Edit
Also no power thru black wire to coil while kicking and watching multimeter. So not coil effing up.

[Guest]

Couple questions so we don't have to keep chasing this around.

Did you put a ground wire on the switch? Did lowbrow send you any sort of diagram with their switch? Could you upload a picture of their diagram or whatever as well as; well lit clear close ups of the backs of both switches? If no to the ground, put one on it.

Glad to hear you have a meter we may be putting it to use, if you can't provide the photos requested for some reason. I'm tempted to say check your fuse(s) with the meter on ohms just visual inspection can't always see a fuse fault, and if it/they are good slap the black wire on the post with the battery wire on the switch and see what happens.

[cros36]

jetblack

no provisions for a ground on switch. no diagram with the switch. switch is pretty easy. full CCW is off. first click CW the "IG" is turned on. second and final click CW "IG" and "L" are turned on. ive had this switch wired on my XS in the past. i also tested it yesterday with the multimeter and it still functions correctly.

i deconstructed the original switch in a learning experiement. i did however find a bigger version of wiring diagram. this may help.

picture with the wires show how i connected the wires from the magneto to the "ig" post.

the one inline fuse installed from the battery + is fine because lights work.

hope im not talking in circles. thanks.

[Guest]

No worries somethings are just harder to handle 3rd person especially without seeing whats going on. Cool I can see the diagram now Too bad you didn't post the deconstructed original switch, I love seeing inside them...

But anyhoo, according to the diagram the BLACK wire exits the magneto and the coil JOIN together and then go into the switch (hopefully you have your 2 black wires one from the coil and the one from the magneto joining before going on the switches (IG)nition post) or else no you will not have power to the coil as you are describing. The GREEN and YELLOW wires should be on your (L)ights/acc switch post. And the WHITE with RED stripe wire of course goes on the (B)attery switch post.

This should take care of it...

[cros36]

jetblack,
put the black onto the (IG) post, but yellow and green onto (L). i get spark now, but heres the thing.
key out i get spark
key in first position (IG), i get spark
key in last position (L) i get no spark.

putting black on IG and yellow and green on (L) it basically connects black yellow and green again.

i switched black and (yellow, green) i get spark key out, i get spark on (IG) where yellow and green are now connected, but no spark when key is full on. again, essentially connecting the three again...

what do yellow and green coming out of the magneto do? obviously black sends power to coil. rectifier is a different wire. no regulator. not sure what they do.

i swear im not stupid when it comes to wiring. this is just throwing me for a loop cause i dont know what these wires actually do.