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  1. #761
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    Looking to Frisco my tank, using a brass shut off valve at the back of the tank......

    Question: What do I do about the CV carb? The original petcock has vaccum lines hooked up to the CV carb. Can I delete those and cap off the tip on the Carb?

    working on a 95 Sporty with a stock CV Carb

  2. #762
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    Well, if I had taken more time, I woudlnt of posted the question.

    But just for knowledge here for everyone....

    "I had a bad vacuum petcock and replaced it with a mechanical one. On the Keihin CV carb, you just cap the vacuum connector on the carb. My bike has never run "rough" with this setup."

    So the Vaccum lines on the CV Carb n Petcock is a saftey feature, to shut the fuel off when the bike is off and to stop the flow to the carb just incase the bowl float doesnt properly seat.

    So if you decide to run a Mechanical Valve, you have to remember to shut your fuel off when not riding, or you risk leaking fuel. the chances are slim, but thats the only thing.

    So I am defently making the switch to a mechanical valve over the petcock

  3. #763
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    I pulled the dual stem off of my CV carb and have the VOES going directly to the barb on the carburetor.

  4. #764
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChopperDani View Post
    Well, if I had taken more time, I woudlnt of posted the question.

    But just for knowledge here for everyone....

    "I had a bad vacuum petcock and replaced it with a mechanical one. On the Keihin CV carb, you just cap the vacuum connector on the carb. My bike has never run "rough" with this setup."

    So the Vaccum lines on the CV Carb n Petcock is a saftey feature, to shut the fuel off when the bike is off and to stop the flow to the carb just incase the bowl float doesnt properly seat.

    So if you decide to run a Mechanical Valve, you have to remember to shut your fuel off when not riding, or you risk leaking fuel. the chances are slim, but thats the only thing.

    So I am defently making the switch to a mechanical valve over the petcock
    Unless I'm mistaken and things are different on the earlier models, the VOES interacts with the ignition. Sounds like some people can get it to run fine fully bypassing it, but the general consensus is to leave it all hooked up.

    This wiring thread has good info on it: http://www.chopcult.com/forum/search...archid=2241617

  5. #765
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    Quote Originally Posted by boneseauc View Post
    Unless I'm mistaken and things are different on the earlier models, the VOES interacts with the ignition. Sounds like some people can get it to run fine fully bypassing it, but the general consensus is to leave it all hooked up.

    This wiring thread has good info on it: http://www.chopcult.com/forum/search...archid=2241617
    ChopperDani is referring to removing the factory vacuum petcock that shares the same port as the VOES. Not deleting the VOES itself. The vacuum petcocks the factory uses are a high failure rate item in my experience.

  6. #766
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    Ah shit, my bad. Also, agreed. I have spent days troubleshooting a sportster that wouldn't start, just to find out that the vacuum line that runs from the petcock had a small crack in it.

  7. #767

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    Default sourcing a DIY oil bag

    FWIW I was looking for scrap steel to make an oil bag for my Sporty HT project and came across an old Cherry Bomb M-80 muffler in the workshop that measures 5" X 10.5", just the right size to gut and make a 3 qt tank out of. It even has nicely rounded ends... not bad for 'free'.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #768
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    Hey guys. Iím building a chopper from an 81 ironhead and I need some advice on the brakes.

    I have a caliper from a 2000 xlh, which would have had a 5/8 bore master cylinder, and my original master cylinder which is a 3/4 I believe. Is it possible to get these two to work together? I found this on JP cycles and it has the right fittings, banjo on one end and a threaded nut on the other, but itís kind of pricey.

    https://www.jpcycles.com/product/242...-with-fittings

    Any help would be greatly appreciated because the brakes are really kicking my ass. Thanks guys.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails C848FD0D-F230-4A34-8108-A640C0C8AEA5.jpg  

  9. #769

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottiemcdoogle View Post
    ... I have a caliper from a 2000 xlh, which would have had a 5/8 bore master cylinder, and my original master cylinder which is a 3/4 I believe. Is it possible to get these two to work together?...
    I wouldn't use a MC with a larger bore, it'll make the brake feel 'wooden' and difficult to modulate. If anything I'd go one size smaller than stock. It will result in slightly more lever travel but more leverage, less pull effort and much better feel to apply the brakes without suddenly locking them up. Here's a chart I've been using for more than 20 years and I have one-finger brakes in most situations... only two fingers are necessary in emergency situations.

  10. #770
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skjoll View Post
    I wouldn't use a MC with a larger bore, it'll make the brake feel 'wooden' and difficult to modulate. If anything I'd go one size smaller than stock. It will result in slightly more lever travel but more leverage, less pull effort and much better feel to apply the brakes without suddenly locking them up. Here's a chart I've been using for more than 20 years and I have one-finger brakes in most situations... only two fingers are necessary in emergency situations.
    I’m sorry I should have mentioned this is for the back brake, I won’t be running a front brake.

    Also I don’t see a chart, I don’t think it posted.

  11. #771

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    The words "Here's a chart" is a URL link to a page on the Vintage Brake website... click it, it's safe, really. But it doesn't matter if it's the front or rear brake, you'll want better lever feel and controllability... especially if you're going to rely on just a rear brake which is easier to lock up and skid which means longer braking distances.

  12. #772
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    Doh! I see it now. I’ll check it out, thanks!

  13. #773
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    Not going to start a new thread for this. Stock Sporty 883 with stock tank. Tank has vent line to atmosphere which starts under the cap. If I run a vented cap, I should be able to plug the tank vent, correct? Or do I need to maintain both vents?

  14. #774
    MariaHiggins
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRFyou View Post
    You can go ahead and hold their hands and make sure their caviar comes from the Black Sea, and their urine comes out 95% Champagne.
    It is very important to have a good caviar provider. I tried https://fishandcaviar.com/product-ca.../black-caviar/ recently. And I do not want to change it.

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