Rear wheel spacing troubles!

been trying out the rear caliper on the back and came across another issue!

So, this is how the caliper would sit, which is perfect, with the slot cut there where I can just weld a tab on the frame for it to slide..



but now I've come across this problem...
first, I can't use the wheel adjusters on the inside, as on the right side, as there's no space for it once the caliper is there (pic after this one):



secondly, if I push the wheel as far forward as it can go, so I assume all is straight, the frame plate doesn't seem to sit parallel to the caliper bit? meaning if I get a spacer in there it won't sit flush with the plate?



or is it a case of making a spacer that a bit of clearance and once all tighten it will be fine?

and, as I can't use the wheel adjusters on the inside, I'll have to cut the little tubing off the inside and weld a new one on the outside, but can't find anything like this adjuster?
Took the pic at the hayride, I also guess these adjusters would slot into the plate?

First, leave the caliper out of the set up and put the chain on it. Get it running true and then look at the way the axle plates are sitting. If there is something not straight fix that first.

Chances are the frame will pull in just a hair when you tighten the axle up. That may be why it looks that way?

Now assuming that is ok I would Think you could cut the l/s adjuster off the axle plate and weld it to the front on the outside as in the pix of the other bike you posted. You could also, for the sake of keep it even looking, do the same with the r/s adjuster and just make a longer r/s spacer. Moving them outside will mean you will need a longer axle though. Those outside adjusters have slots which the adjuster bolt locates into and keeps them from spinning on the axle. Some are machined with flats that sit in the axle slot. If your axle fits in the plate groove nicely then it'll work with the slots on the bolts and wont need to go in the groove.

thanks for the advice there.

yes, I'll change both sides to outside adjusters, would look silly diferent on each side. Also thought that I would need a longer axle as no way the one I have will be long enough running the adjusters on the side..

do people get a new one made I guess? or get one from a different bike to suit it?


About making sure its true... any tips on how to check that?
Sometime ago I put a level (only thing I have that I know its true) from the rear to the front sprocket and it was sitting flush on both, would this be the right way to do it?

thanks

Does the adjustment bolt come in contact with the caliper bracket?

If It does, Then your fine since the bracket will move with the axle when adjusting it. & the adjustment
bolt shouldn't interfere with the caliper bracket when everything is tighten up since it is a rigid mount.

*of course the bolt may (slightly mar the finish on the aluminum bracket) but it will not really be visible
since the bolt will be up against it.

You could also make a custom spacer that has an extended area at the rear where it would sort of wraparound
the caliper bracket so that the adjustment bolt would contact the spacer instead of the bracket.

Originally Posted by Revelator

Does the adjustment bolt come in contact with the caliper bracket?

If It does, Then your fine since the bracket will move with the axle when adjusting it. & the adjustment
bolt shouldn't interfere with the caliper bracket when everything is tighten up since it is a rigid mount.

*of course the bolt may (slightly mar the finish on the aluminum bracket) but it will not really be visible
since the bolt will be up against it.

You could also make a custom spacer that has an extended area at the rear where it would sort of wraparound
the caliper bracket so that the adjustment bolt would contact the spacer instead of the bracket.

I see what you mean there, get a spacer, between the axle plate and the caliper bracket, with a bolt threaded on it.. but that wouldnt work..

as once I pull the wheel a bit backwards, the caliper bracket in on the way of the adjuster tube, just took this pic to show what I mean.

I think my option here is to go with outside mounted adjusters....

Just weld a little piece of aluminum plate, like 1/4 or 3/8 thick right on the back of that caliper bracket.

That way the Adjustment bolt can has good contact. I think that would be easier than trying to get that Bolt
to line up with a spacer. & the Caliper moves with the axle so mission accomplished.

Unless You want to hassle making or finding a longer axle,

Mmmm... not sure if i understand what you say...

you are saying to just weld a piece to the caliper hanger, but what about the bolt to go through the adjuster?
the bolt has to be fixed to the axle, what you explain is making a plate so the bolt that comes through the adjuster little tube has something to push against?

but when adjusting, it should pull the wheel back, not forwards.....so the bolt has to be on the axle side and then through the adjusting tube?



Is it difficult to find a longer axle? I havent looked at it yet, so not sure....
thought would be a case of finding a larger Harley and the axle would be a bit longer?
I probably only need the axle to be 1" longer or so as all I'm adding is 2 external adjusters.....

might not be that difficult to find? just searched on eBay and found this... (not a clue if its the right length and diam as Im at work at the moment)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Santee-Ext...item5649f07716

but if there's one on eBay.. means it will be readily available to buy from somewhere? i hope anyway.... lol

is that a wheel spacer between the hub and the rotor? if so have it turned down or find a narrower one.... another idea is cut the brake caliper support off where it is attached to the axle and weld up some supports to the frame and mount it that way...it will look cool but some extra work

Originally Posted by pop

is that a wheel spacer between the hub and the rotor? if so have it turned down or find a narrower one.... another idea is cut the brake caliper support off where it is attached to the axle and weld up some supports to the frame and mount it that way...it will look cool but some extra work

No, there's no spacer between the hub and rotor (i think you mean sprocket? language difficulties for me as im a portuguese guy, living in England, in an American forum! lol)



I understand the mod you explain by cutting the caliper arm to the axle and fix it to tabs on the frame, but dont really want to go with that option, I like the way this setup looks, so would really like to keep it.

I'm trying to find external adjusters like the ones on the pic I've put off the other bike... cant frikin find any! just chrome ones!
Might just get a mate to make some, afterall they are just a spacer with a slot cut on it where adjuster bolt will push against right?

thanks

I didn't read all the post but i just went through putting this exact set up on my bike. The hole on that caliper you have is 3/4. I made the hole on mine to be the O.D. of a piece of 3/4 pipe which i used as spacers. First i made a spacer as if the caliper wasn't there then once the wheel was straight i laid the caliper pads where they would set on the rotor then made and welded some tabs so the caliper could mount and slide.

I had to machine some surface of the caliper to get it all to fit though which is what you will have to do unless you have a frame that fits a fatter tire than stock. Then the spacer that is sitting in the space as the caliper i cut so it went around halfway into the caliper so i could remove the other half that touches the hub very easily when taking the tire off. If anything doesn't make sense let me know and ill try to explain it better. I can take allot more detailed pics when i get home if you want them, these were all i could find in my phone from when i was working on it.

Thanks for those pics, I wont need to machine the caliper as the frame is quite wide, so the caliper wont touch it... I even need a spacer between the caliper and the axle plate on the frame... there's a pic above where you can see how much space there is.

The axle can move freely forward and backwards and the caliper wont touch the frame

Sorry if I missed it in the thread already, but what type of, or who made the frame or tail section you're working with? IMO, the axle adjusters on the inside of plates doesn't make a lot of sense. At least I don't recall ever seeing any done that way. Move them both to the out side. Center the wheel with your sprockets, chain and rotor mounted up. Measure and have some spacers cut and then go out to a nice steak dinner.

that's the plan! I specially like the steak dinner idea! hahaha

i've asked on another place but no one has replied to it... what's the best way to make sure the sprockets are aligned?
is it a flat bar from one to the other making sure the bar sits flush on both sprockets?

what I had done before was that... I pushed the wheel as far forward as possible, with axle pushed against the end of the slots on the axle plates and then put a bar across and it was sitting flush on both sprockets.

the level was the only thing I had in the garage that i knew it was dead straight, so I used that

well, longer axle, as pointed out previously is not an issue anymore.

just bought one 16" long for £25 delivered. I measured earlier and with external spacer I only need the axle to be around 13 to 14", so I can then get this new one machined.

now my main task is to make sure the hardtail was done properly and everything is straight, that's where I need your tips gents

thanks for the help!
JP

Yeah, a level, yard stick any straight edge will work to make sure the sprockets are aligned. One piece of advice I learned the hard way. Mock everything up with the wheel and tire that you plan on ultimately running. Then get your fender and mounts sorted out. Lastly install the chain and cut it to fit once you have everything where it needs to be. Otherwise you may end up with the tire too close and rubbing the fender, etc. I went to a larger tire after I did all that and ended up with too short a chain, shit was way too close for comfort.

thanks!

yeh, I know that bit, loads of experience on other project (not bike) where not enough thought was given and ended up going backwards loads of times!! that's why everything is on hold till I get this spacer/sprocket alignment out the way..

once that's done and I have the tyre sitting where it should be then I can keep going with the rest...

Get the fender in place, struts in place, battery box, rear light bracket...etc

so, today was the day to measure and make sure the rear hardtail had been put on properly before I dive deeper into this build..

so I need your advice here people, please let me know if I'm doing this right, if so then I think all is straight and I can continue with putting rear fender on etc.

So, to check if the frame was lined up I tied a line on the stock frame, in different positions, and took measurements to the axle plates to check if it was the same.
Once I done that and was happy the measurements were equal, I cut the internal adjusters and welded external adjusters on.

here's the internal adjusters, as this was a Santee frame


As I can't really trust the rear axle being straight by pushing it all the way forward on the slots (as the slots might not be equal) I got the same line from the centre and turned the adjuster bolts to push the axle back to the point that the measurement was the same on both ends of the axle. Would this be a correct way of doing it?





Then I kept the adjuster bolts in the same place (as that way I knew the axle would be straight) and got the wheel on and checked for sprocket alignment, straight edge from rear to front and its straight.



by chance, when I welded the external axle adjusters, I welded it bang on in place, as with the axle straight (by using the line method) and the sprockets aligned, the measurement on the bolt adjuster is the same on both sides.




My welding skills are not great sometimes, so I couldnt really do a nice seem weld on the plate and adjuster, so had to fill and grind/file it down.. still a bit of filling to do.


So, the questions I have here are:

1. Measuring from the stock frame to the axle plates from and on different points - right way of checking its straight?
2. The whole taking line measurement to the axle and then leave adjuster in place, put wheel on and check sprockets, right way of doing it?
3. I've noticed that if I pull my front sprocket, the shaft has movement (it comes out a bit) is this alright? or is it all fked inside?

Thanks for the help!
once I have this alignment stuff done and dusted then I can crack on with all the other bits around that rear wheel!