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  1. #21
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    Shock it with a punch and hammer, weld a bolt to it, pull it. Welding it should heat it enough that it'll pull right out. Good luck, and don't be too hard on your buddy, you both (hopefully) learned an important lesson.

  2. #22
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    Some better shots...

    Now that I have the heads off, im really thinking of just throwing in the towel and converting to 1200/1250

    I see no point having to do this once again.

    suggestions?

    anyone selling jugs and pistons and such, maybe even the kit?

    also, Im hoping to sell the heads and jugs to offset some of my spent cash.

    anyone need anything. let me know.

    Thanks guys!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_2073.jpg   IMG_2074.jpg   IMG_2072.jpg   IMG_2071.jpg   IMG_2070.jpg  


  3. #23
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    Do it, but the jugs and pistons are worthless. Do headwork to those 883s and 1250 from NHRS cams if you got moneys left over
    .

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by coldsmokejr View Post
    Shock it with a punch and hammer, weld a bolt to it, pull it. Welding it should heat it enough that it'll pull right out. Good luck, and don't be too hard on your buddy, you both (hopefully) learned an important lesson.
    Never heard of this method, do you grind the broken stud flat to weld it to the bolt?

    Take it easy on your buddy.

    The trouble is you don't have a mill or a lathe. This works OK, but you'd need help.



    If you're all ready throwing in the towel this might be too much to dig around for. Check machinist supply shops, if you have them. Try and find someone in tool and die or a body shop.

    Or, that "quikcenter" video that follows looks like a sweet tool. It's worth a shot, only $38 on ebay. Sure beats rebuilding.

  5. #25
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    in the meantime be soaking it in penetrating oil until you figure out what your going to do. It sounds simple, but I have gotten 3/4 of broken bolts and stuff out with a simple punch and hammer spinning it out backwards.

  6. #26
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    Thanks guys!

    Ive looked at this hoe for about 3 hrs. there is just the wall of one side of the bolt left...

    Im soaking in WD.

    I disassembled my bike as you can see, and I curious, I ordered new gaskets for everything cause I was always told never use a gasket twice. but the Head to Jog gaskets previous left some marks... do I have to sand the surfaces clean before installing my new heads and gaskets? same for the rocker boxes?

    Im lost.

  7. #27
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    Flat file...Mill bastard cut...Go smooth and easy, no need to remove alot of material. If the sealing surfaces are good, you're good.

  8. #28
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    jesus some of this advice is crazy..new heads? for a broken exhaust bolt?
    using the drilling fixture from Jims or Vtwin and proper procedure it takes about 2 hours to get one out and usually, on a stock bike, nothing needs to come out of the frame.
    your buddy most likely work hardened the shit out of that high carbon grade 8 bolt drilling and drilling and if you've attempted to heat cycle it a bunch getting it out you've probably made the problem worse.
    the good news is you CAN do this yourself, don't panic, and don't pay a machine shop money that could be used to buy the tool then your friends can come to YOU next time
    first...stop what your doing, order the jims drill out fixture ($100) and 2 135 degree machine length .25" carbide drills from mcmaster, the drills will be considered 'consumables' for this job and will probably be trashed when your done with them.
    use a good handheld drill, some patience and plenty of feed as in PUSH on the drill until your arms hurt and go.
    brush a little cutting oil on the drill tip when you relieve your chips if you must but as the drills will likely both be chipped to hell and worthless when your done its not important.
    when the minor diameter of the screw is drilled out you can get in there with a few picks and chip out the major diameter (threads) easy enough. Often there is no need for thread repair either unless in your case your buddy drill wandered and galled up the original threads.
    good luck and feel free to pm me here if you need any advice.

    one last piece of advice, WD40 is shit as a penetrating oil, get some Kroil!
    Last edited by warehouseskate; 08-04-2012 at 2:17 PM.

  9. #29
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    Trying to "extract" that is useless. The damage is done. The hole that got drilled left zero wall for new threads. Even if you get it out there's no chance for a heli coil or thread sert. Not even for a double oversize bolt. Start nipping off the corner of the aluminum and knock the chunk of old bolt right out the side. You will never TIG weld down into the hole that deep anyway so get all the crap out of there and do TIG passes slowly till you build up the head again. Reshape the outside then use a flange to properly locate the "new" hole. Drill and tap it straight in a mill and it's good as new.

    Spool gun MIG will do nothing but make a mess of that. Those things are for assembling aluminum trailers and tool boxes. Precision welding, especially where you want no pock marks and no cavities hiding, there's no choice but TIG.

    I'll give you $10 + shipping for it. $20 for the set- as long as you leave it as is.

  10. #30
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    these last 2 posts are the best advice for you predicament, i'm a machinist and have fixed these before for the local bike shop or some poor guy the thought he could do it himself and fucked it up. i'm about 3 hours south of u if u ever want to learn how to fix these kind of mistakes. and the old dirty bike shop here fixes and repairs heads and engine cases as well.

  11. #31
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    Thanks again guys, I removed the bolt tonight. god it was hell....Included are pics.

    @warehouseskate. I totally agree, if I was 15 minutes earlier I would have stopped him and corrrectly extracted. my problem was the walking or drilling on a angle. I had no choice but to get heads. But I totally appreciate the advice.

    @mike47 - Thanks for the spool knowledge. I had no idea. and I totally agree about the depth of the hole and tig welding, and thanks for the offer! but come on 20 bucks? LOL JK JK

    @panheadjay - Thanks man! where are you located... Id love to take you up on that offer, as I love learning new skills. I actually work for Grainger (I know, not everyones favorite) and I love working on the Milling and Metalworking projects!

    Here are some pics. the Heads minus the bolt, and the bolt itself. what a pain, there is also one of the full intact and the extracted.

    NOTE: sorry included pics for my other thread about jetting.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails photo 1.JPG   photo 2.JPG   photo 3.JPG   photo 4.JPG   photo 5.JPG  


  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by theangus View Post
    ... and thanks for the offer! but come on 20 bucks? LOL JK JK
    HAHA. I love being a dick sometimes. I don't even have a use for those heads!

    I'd take the ride to see Jay one day if I were you and learn the procedure from him. That is an offer you won't get often.

    And in that last pic the hole looks not so bad as it did in an earlier pic? Maybe I'm looking at the wrong hole. Maybe the pic was funky? It just looks more fixable in the latter one.
    Last edited by MIKE47; 08-05-2012 at 6:43 AM.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKE47 View Post
    HAHA. I love being a dick sometimes. I don't even have a use for those heads!

    I'd take the ride to see Jay one day if I were you and learn the procedure from him. That is an offer you won't get often.

    And in that last pic the hole looks not so bad as it did in an earlier pic? Maybe I'm looking at the wrong hole. Maybe the pic was funky? It just looks more fixable in the latter one.
    LOLOL its cool. and yeah you and me both. Id love to go down there and get schooled!

  14. #34
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    good for you, glad you got it sorted out!
    we are all lucky that with guys like Mike on here we have a wealth of knowledge to pull from.

  15. #35

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    Phewwww I now see the amount of suck I may or may not be in. 🤷*♂️ Iím thinking Iíll buy the Jimís drill plate kit.

  16. #36
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    Instead of resurrecting 2012 threads without adding any useful content, post pics of your specific problem for specific advice and info regarding insert options. Best choice may vary if your part is damaged.

    Jim's stuff is overpriced but it works. Those guides are very simple parts. Here's a more reasonable example:

    https://www.georges-garage.com/produ...tud-drill-jig/

    They could be even cheaper if they weren't anodized, but pretty makes people feel better about spending money!
    Last edited by farmall; 03-11-2020 at 12:55 PM.

  17. #37
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    Gosh dang with this necromanced threads, sheesh

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    Instead of resurrecting 2012 threads without adding any useful content, post pics of your specific problem for specific advice and info regarding insert options. Best choice may vary if your part is damaged.

    Jim's stuff is overpriced but it works. Those guides are very simple parts. Here's a more reasonable example:

    https://www.georges-garage.com/produ...tud-drill-jig/

    They could be even cheaper if they weren't anodized, but pretty makes people feel better about spending money!
    farm, i didnt see the pics but i snapped a bolt in there b4 and it wandered, I pulled head , cad him cut the bolt out and weld then mach and tap, ( was egged 1/4 inch in ) sometimes the 100 bucks for the work is just worth it, headbolt bulllshit is a crap shoot.
    best way to do this befor drilling is pull the head and bring to mach shop, thats what I do now, dont even fuck with them

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