02 sporty complete rewire help, input, opinions??? help
So guys I am in the middle of a s*!T storm Help help help. Lets see where to start. about 2 months ago I got my tins painted I decided to cut all the wire connectors and tuck the wires under the tank. so I did that with no problems everthing was cool. then I wanted to take the speedo out so I did and the speedo harness. including that light from the speedo. so not my wiring harness is in shambles and i fried my stock ignition module, two wires thouched that were not suppose to - _ -. and now I got a Hi-4 dual fire, installed and i cant get the thing to turn over. So im not at the point where I want to ditch the stock cut up harness all together and just rewire it so all I have running is the engine head light, turn sig, and tail light. thats all I need and all I want. I am going to buy some wire and just make a new harness from scratch, iv seen some posts about this already I just need a bit more clarification maybe some of you guys can help me out???
First the starter button can you guys expand on that,
next the circuit brakers where can I buy them
Then putting it all back together, its an 02 xlh nothing fancy just standard bike you think any of you guys can help me draw somthing up for, a diagram you all already have?
As far as taking the controls out from the handle bars where can i wire them up to, I know I have to leave the turn sigs there but the start I want to move the kill switch i can ditch, the horn I cant ditch, the Light I wanna move( i seen where some one moved it to a toggle switch and mounted on the frame)
If im missing any other information let me know
by the way this is my first post so sorry for making it a long one and, Thanks chopclut guy appreciate it
Here's a long ass write up I did on an '02 "S" Model. It had a stock ignition module, so that is different from what you are doing, but the Hi4 will be even easier. You can follow the diagram I did for the rest of it. Put a push button starter on the end of the solenoid and circuit breakers or fuses wherever you want (I like the little triangle cover behind the battery). If you remove the VOES you will need to replace your petcock or flip the diaphram around so fuel comes out without having any vacuum.
Thank for the info billdozer, I still have a question that needs answering. As i said i want to gut all the wiring and everything in it, but i need to keep my brake lights and turn signles but where or what kind of circuits do I use for keeping the flashers going. should i keep the stock flasher or what did you do?
I think the best thing to do is trace your own wiring and see what wire colors correlate to what components they run to and ignore the color coding on Bills diagram but use it as a guide. I don't have a sporty so I can't relate directly to your headache but I'm chasing some gremlins in my Gyna's wiring caused by an aftermarket module that converted my rear signals to brake/turn lights that's shit the bed and caused some other problems. With the 100 mile ride to work I don't have time to dick around with things on a complete rewire while and use the truck at almost $5 per gallon. If you've got the time, tools, parts and know how to do it right then gut it and go for broke and start from zero that way you know it's done right.
I have a stock 99 sportster 883 ignition. The wires I have coming from the ignition are P, Wh/bk (which go to the coil) V/Wh , Bk, Gr. Im assuming the black gets ground, but I'm not sure about the green, and V/Wh wires.
Also which wire into the coil (P or W/Bk) do I tie the ignition switch into?
If you still need it by the time I get home tonight, I can try and scan some color wiring diagrams out of my manual...you really need to get a manual though. For 35 bucks you can get one with full color wiring diagrams off ebay. It would serve you a lot better than waiting for someone to respond to a forum post.
Here's my wiring diagram from my '90 sporty. I trashed the stock wires, built my own harness and drafted my diagram after running it by some engineers on another forum. I run an automotive start switch and a kill switch (which requires a relay) but no turn signals. I use a Dyna S ignition and no VOES. With an automotive start switch, the starter relay isn't needed but I don't feel like screwing with it.