CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search
Page 1 of 3 123 Last
  1. #1
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default Official Build Thread.. 1965 650 Tiger (Boardtracker Build)

    I guess I should have started an official build thread for my boardtrack custom.. I started with a already 70's custom chopper built 1965 650 Tiger, and then started doing it in the style I was looking for.. Pretty well all the parts are 1 off custom, or old stock something, and I think that adds a bit more style.

    I had started on this bike a bit ago, but got sidetracked with some other endeavor's, so it has been on the back burner.. I have recently completely disassbled the bike again, so I can do some of the final welding before paint.. I will also run all the cables and wiring, before I disassemble the bike for paint.

    There will be no chrome on this bike, so everything will either be Painted or Copper Plated, and most of it will be painted.. The engine case, frame, tank, fender, front end, handle bars, oil tank, headlight bucket, wheels and hubs, ect, will all be painted in a 2 tone of Champaign and Silver, which will be broken up with a hand painted copper pinstripe.

    The exhaust pipes, cylinder jug, cylinder head, rocker covers, engine covers, clutch basket/hardware, oil tank, headlight trim, front girder hardware/bolts, possibly wheels spokes, and I am sure I am forgetting a few things, will all be Copper Plated.

    The oil tank, rocker covers, cylinder jug and head, will have the copper painted over, so it will only expose accents of copper on the fins and other necessary area's.. The badge work will be done in the same fashion also, becaue I dont want to overwhelm the bike with the copper plating.. About 80-90 percent of the bike will be painted, with the other 10-20 percent being exposed copper plating for highlighting..

    Here is what I started with..



    Here are some of the progress pics, along with some pics that kind of laid out some bad attempts or ideas..





















    Last edited by Iamtheonlyreal1; 06-23-2012 at 6:57 PM.

  2. #2
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Here is where I am at now... I have refined most of what I was trying to achieve, and I think it works now.. The bike is surprising comfortable, and you even ride in a more upright seating postion, due to the use of the Leaf Spring set up I have..

    I used an oil in frame tank, because I wanted the extra room for all my electrics and accessories to be mounted underneath it on the frame work.. By closing out the front of the tank, you lose the oil in frame look, and it will get of the unsightly frame/tank gap.

    I also could not come up with a narrow enough fender, so I had to cut the rear fender into 5 pieces, and then piece together 3 of the pieces, so I can get a fender that actually fits the skinny 19 inch tire..
















    I finally got the bars refined to where I wanted them also, and it was a pain in the ass.. I am running internal Throttle and inverted levers, which was a fairly complicated configuration to get to work.. Internal throttle and an inverted lever, really dont work well together, because the inverted lever clamps on the inside of the handle bar tubing, which would normally jam the throttle.











    Here is a close up of the Leaf Spring seat set up... I have these things set up to body weigth, at 50# increments, so that ensure a better ride than the typical solo seat spring kits.





    Last edited by Iamtheonlyreal1; 06-23-2012 at 7:01 PM.

  3. #3
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Here are some over all pics of the bike, so you can see the stance.. I will disassmble it again this next week, and do all the final finish welding and grinding before it goes to paint..















    Last edited by Iamtheonlyreal1; 06-23-2012 at 7:02 PM.

  4. #4
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    I also have some really cool velocity stacks being made, and they will be pretty trick, if they work.. Rather than having them run straight out at the new carburator angle, they area made to kick out, and then angle themselves to run toward a straight backward angle..

    Here is a pic of the mock up velocity stack, but when done, I am hoping they have a different twist to them.. Between the actual Bell/Cone and the the solid tube right after the bend, it will be cut out, so only about 5 thin fingers will hold the bell.. I will then install a thin metal mesh into the velocity stack, which will be copper plated or painted, and that will fill in the empty space. I think that will break up some of the bulk of the velocity stack, and be something a bit different.. If the velocity stack works, I will have a smaller exhaust tip version made..







    Last edited by Iamtheonlyreal1; 06-23-2012 at 7:03 PM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    110

    Default

    nice !!!



  6. #6
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Being that the front end I am using is an original 1930's BSA girder, I am doing my best not to cut anything, or alter it. There are a couple of threaded tabs that could easily be removed, but it seems it would be best to try to use them if possible..

    At the top of the girder, I had two threaded tabs that was more than likely used for a speedo bracket, but I am not running a speedo at this time, so I needed to figure something out to do with them.. I figure they would make great Clutch and Brake cable guide mounts, so I fashioned some. I used some hiem joints, because during the suspension and steering articulation, they would allow the cable to run through them and flex, with out binding or over flexing the cable.

    I still have a bit of filing to do on them, but I am hoping that they will play with the mechanical theme of the bike..







    Last edited by Iamtheonlyreal1; 06-24-2012 at 5:40 PM.

  7. #7
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    41

    Default

    Im keep looking at these pictures thinking there is gonna be something that i dont like. It never happened dude, I LOVE this thing. Keep it up man!

  8. #8
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    As I have said, I am trying not to modify the original front end. I used the fender tab for a British Style Identification Plate, because it would not be able to house a proper fender for the style I am building. The plate unbolts from the tab, so it can be removed at anytime..

    I have what I guess is a Speedo Cable tab on the front girder tube, and I am trying to figure out what I can use it for.. I was thinking at the beginning I would use it to route the front brake cable, but the twin leading shoe brake housing would not allow that... I am open to suggestions on this one, because I am sort of at a loss.. If you look at the pic below, you will see the threaded bung that extends off the front girder tube.




  9. #9
    starwolf
    Guest

    Default

    This bike kicks ass !
    oh , and maybe you can throw a steering dampener of some sorts there, fog lamp, spotlight,bell, idk ?
    Last edited by starwolf; 06-24-2012 at 6:24 PM.

  10. #10
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by starwolf View Post
    This bike kicks ass !
    oh , and maybe you can throw a steering dampener of some sorts there, fog lamp, spotlight,bell, idk ?
    Thanks man... I am getting very anxious to see it done, and only hope it lives up to what my expectations are.. LOL I really thought about putting a small yellow Lucas fog light there, or something like that..

  11. #11
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    I have been looking at the metal tank badges, and have really been thinking about ditching them.. In most of vintage photo's I can find, it seems like the really early bikes had the Triumph painted on the tanks instead..? I have been thinking that my paint guy can air brush a nostalgic Triumph logo onto the tank..

    Does anyone know the history of the metal tank badges versus the painted logo's? I would be interested in any very early pictures of the Triumph badge work..

  12. #12
    billdozer
    Guest

    Default

    Lots of neat stuff with that leaf spring seat and pedestrian slicer with no fender. This will be neat to see all finished up.

  13. #13
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    I have been considering some alternatives to the metal badge on the tank, and I think I may have found something that I like.. I am not sure about where or when the logo came from, but I think it is pretty fitting to the build..

    I just printed and sized these with my printer, and then applied them with water, so I can see the look.. What do you think?








    Here are some pics with the metal badge, which looks pretty good, but I am thinking I like the less clutter and the fact the logo would be unique to a tank..







  14. #14
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    1,897

    Default

    I really liked the printed ones.

  15. #15
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Here is a set of 1931-33 Triumph Tank Decals I ordered earlier, and I think they will work out best, because there isnt any Harley resemblance like the other.. We will apply these under the clear coat, and depending on their size, we may do a bit of air brush tweeking to them... I really like the Wing Design, and I may find a way to incorporate into these original logo's..


    Last edited by Iamtheonlyreal1; 06-26-2012 at 7:38 PM.

  16. #16
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    I have also been thinking about a small chain guard, so I roughed one in... I am not sure if I am liking it at all, and I was debating on holes in the side of it to break up some of the bulk, but I am not sure about any of it. I am trying to figure out something to use the engine cases extended mounting hole, so I dont have to cut it off, just not sure if this is the solution.












  17. #17
    starwolf
    Guest

    Default

    personally I think the metal tank badges are hideous, I'm glad mine didnt come with em cuz i prolly would've hacked them up too. As for the "decals" I don't really like the winged one with British flag, mainly because they are too small, if they were maybe 2-3 x that size, I think it'd look a lot better(minus the wings, this is a patch someone "came up" with, it was never an actual logo. The other logo you have from the 30's is pretty nice, but flashy with all the different colors, may look good in B&W. My thought on the chain guard, A:you have an open primary,whats the point of a chain guard? BThis is a "board tracker" inspired bike, I don't think a chain guard will make the bike go any faster! Simply put it's not needed, with that said, later down the road, if you have issues ripping pants legs, then maybe add it. You seem to be fixated with using every available mounting bracket/ hole as possible, trust me, ya don't need a bolt in every hole, hell mines missing a good few, and it still runs!
    I like the older style logos like these:
    1902 - 1906 -
    1907-1914 - Script -
    1914 -
    Last edited by starwolf; 06-27-2012 at 6:18 AM.

  18. #18
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    [QUOTE=starwolf;339987]My thought on the chain guard, A:you have an open primary,whats the point of a chain guard? BThis is a "board tracker" inspired bike, I don't think a chain guard will make the bike go any faster! Simply put it's not needed, with that said, later down the road, if you have issues ripping pants legs, then maybe add it. You seem to be fixated with using every available mounting bracket/ hole as possible, trust me, ya don't need a bolt in every hole, hell mines missing a good few, and it still runs!
    QUOTE]

    I looked at those logo's also, and for some reason the globe badge appealed to me. I am also not completely sold on the chain guard, but my issue with the mount hole being used, is that is is extended upward beyond the case, and it really stands at attention.

    I do understand that not all holes have to have bolts in them, but I like things to look like they have purpose, or it was suppose to come out that way. I design custom products for classic automobile catalogs, and I like things to be a direct fit, and provide function and order to the application.

    I have respect for the classic cars and motorcycles, along with their components, because I know what it takes to sort it all out from the beginning. And that is why I am really trying to use all the mounting positions on this front end. I dont really want to hack anything up, that may have had a purpose in the past.. LOL

  19. #19
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    215

    Default

    Well done sir, well done.

  20. #20
    Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    95

    Default

    Here are some pictures of the Handle Bar Cable routing and mechanisms. Everything seems to be working well, but I did have to order an 8 inch longer clutch cable for proper tucked away routing.. This was not as easy as I thought it would be, but it was very important for the look I was going for, so it had to happen..















Share This



Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in