progress report

i got a 1970 t120 r a few weeks ago it had the fat bob tanks on it when i got it, i took that pic right after i unloaded it, since then i sandblasted and painted the frame, got a new front end, but a 16 in spoke on the rear. but i thought i would show you all what i have so far.

Lookin good!! I've still never seen a Trump that looked good with those big ass fat-bob tanks..

ok so this is what i have so far, i finally found a wheel that would work with this dual disc narrow glide front end. i got the pegs and brake pedal done, i need to get the motor tightened up finish the tank and do the wiring and she will be ready for a shake down run

what are the pegs, mid conrols from ?

I had some old TRI high way pegs i just used the stock pegs but chopped and welded the TRI peg on them

instead of making a new thread im just going to use this one, my other triumph is a mostly stock 71, 650. im running points with no battery. i have 2 problems after the bike is started and i flip the lights on the bike wont idle. it just dies. is this normal, i rev the bike a bit before flipping the switch and everything is good until the rpms drop while slowing. my other issue is starting. i dont ride it much and the reason is because its a bitch to start, it will start but most of the time i break a sweat doing it. the bike runs fine after started. im considering getting a pazon electronic ign. would this help.

EI possibly will help w/ the starting. my 43y/o Triple w/ a Trispark EI,(not saying a trispark is any better than a pazon by any means, just stating what I have) is a 1-3 kicker, no matter if its been 10 min or 10 weeks.
,as far as the dying when you flip the lights- might check wiring, should not die when you flip the lights on - sounds like you have a dead short on your lighting circuit.
if headlamp dims when reving, you may need other items., charging is not working,
You may also need larger (or new) capacitors to store (more) elec current between starts since you dont have a battery. the contact points need to be very clean, and properly adjusted, keep some emmry cloth or sandpaper handy.

I don't think it wiring. And it doesn't die as soon as I flip the switch its only at slow speeds and stops. I have a sparx capacitor I only run a headlight and brake light

your stator may not be producing enough voltage/wattage, causing less voltage/wattage to reach the capacitor than needed for sufficent charging/storage. It may also have something to do with the type of headlamp/tail lamp your running. 65W H4 head, LED tail ??? it may just be too much drain on your elec sys. Pos grd? Neg grd? may also affect lighting. LED's dont like pos grd, (unless you buy an led specifically for pos grd) these are just some "thoughts" as I am no pro, like others here.

im considering a small battery just for the lights but im not sure how to wire it.

there are several wiring diagrams on this site. If you get a battery, it will need to be wired into the charging system, so your headlight/taillight dont just drain your battery out in 30 min /1 hr or whatever. You will also likely want to wire a switch in, so you can turn them off when starting the bike. There are several small type batteries that can be concealed fairly easily, go with a decent quality AGM type, they can be installed in any position. A battery may also help with starting.

not sure if you solved this problem or not yet but i just did a whole new wiring setup with wassel EI (best triumph EI on the market IMO) boyer light delay and im also running a battery and the setup is easy to wire and my triumph runs better than ever. i have all the diagrams for them too

Will u please message me, and send the wiring diagrams