CHOP CULT HOME
Email Password
Search
  1. #1
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    112

    Default Rattle Can Paint Question

    I have searched the forum, read pages and pages on multiple threads on this topic (and there is alot out there) but I was going to buy paint tomorrow and I still need some help.

    I am just doing a basic gloss black on my helmet, and I got the steps down, just looking for help with paint and gloss

    What spray paint do you recommend for paint? and what kind of clean coat? The clear coat is really where I am having trouble. There is acrylic, emamel, urethane and polyurethane. I saw some people go urethane from SprayMax etc but I only have access to a Home Depot or a Autozone so any thoughts?

    I was gonna go Rustoleum Universal Paint and Primer in 1 Gloss Black with a Varathane Polyurethane clear glossy. Any thoughts? Also maybe Krylon? Duplicolor? Let me know.

    What combos can i use and not use together: acrylic paint/enamel clear, enamel paint/enamel clear, enamel paint/urethane clear?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    worn
    Guest

    Default

    I've always had good results with Duplicolor primer and acrylic lacquer. Don't use varathane for clear, gas eats right through it. Your best choice for clear is Spraymax 2k. Clear engine enamel is pretty tough but gas will still affect it.
    Black (and red) will show every prep and paint error so prep is very important. Wet sanding and polishing will smooth it out and bring up the gloss.
    Do a search here, on other forums and Google for tips and instructions.

  3. #3
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    1,267

    Default

    if all you've got is home depot and auto zone , use regular rustoleum gloss black for the paint.
    i don't know shit about clears, but you stuff they sell at HD probably won't be worth a damn. art stores (michales, dick blick etc) sell this shit called 'triple thick'. its a clear but it goes on hella thick. might work better than a bunch of thin layers that are gonna get cooked by the sun.

  4. #4
    ARBY
    Guest

    Default

    Everything that "worn" said. Duplicolor has always worked out great for me. The high-build primer is my favorite primer because it's more forgiving on sanding through to the surface prior to the finish coats. Remember that rattle can paint goes on a lot thinner than when using a spray gun so you have to be carefull not to spay it on too heavy or it will run. And yes, the prep definitely determines the finish. Don't skimp on the prep.

  5. #5
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    306

    Default

    When I use a foam roller or a gun, I use Rustoleum paint in pints and Mineral Spirits to cut it. When I need to rattlecan something (usually black) I use Rustoleum Appliance paint.

  6. #6
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    112

    Default

    Thanks for your help guys! I will probly go with the Duplicolor form autozone. I think mine around here has a gloss black and a clear that will do the job.

    Great heads up on the Varathane, I will stay away for sure.

    Can I get SprayMax in stores or is it online only from like coastairbrush?

  7. #7
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    543

    Default

    You can just use several coats of Rustoleum then sand and buff without clear.

  8. #8
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    479

    Default

    IMO, DupliColor makes the very best rattle-can paints, primarily because their spray nozzle is excellent and does not typically spit or such.

    Here is what I recommend. Thoroughly clean the helmet with dishwasher soap and water. Wet-sand the helmet surface with 800-grit or 1000-grit. Spray on 2 or 3 light/moderate coats of DupliColor primer and allow 20-30 minutes cur time between coats. Spray on 2-3 moderate coats of DupliColor black... if you allow the primer to sit ovennight then scuff the primer lightly with wet 1000-grit to get better adhesion. Top with a couple coats of SprayMax... it is readily available on-line and delivered to your door.

    Have fun with it!

    www.flamethrowercustoms.com
    www.flamethrowercustoms.blogspot.com

  9. #9
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    112

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OhioFlameThrower View Post
    IMO, DupliColor makes the very best rattle-can paints, primarily because their spray nozzle is excellent and does not typically spit or such.

    Here is what I recommend. Thoroughly clean the helmet with dishwasher soap and water. Wet-sand the helmet surface with 800-grit or 1000-grit. Spray on 2 or 3 light/moderate coats of DupliColor primer and allow 20-30 minutes cur time between coats. Spray on 2-3 moderate coats of DupliColor black... if you allow the primer to sit ovennight then scuff the primer lightly with wet 1000-grit to get better adhesion. Top with a couple coats of SprayMax... it is readily available on-line and delivered to your door.

    Have fun with it!

    www.flamethrowercustoms.com
    www.flamethrowercustoms.blogspot.com
    Thanks so much for your help!

    For a helmet should I use the Spraymax 2k clear or can I use SEM 1K High Solids Clear. Whats the difference? The store has SEM 1K High Solids Clear in stock but I would have to order the Spraymax.

    Also I know the SEM 1K High Solids Clear is UV resistant is the spraymax 2k UV resistant?

  10. #10
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    961

    Default

    i like to use the engine enamel paint and clear coat. cant think of the brand but it comes in gloss and matte colors. i use that shit on everything. holds up really good.

  11. #11
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,732

    Default

    Just avoid the stuff thats supposed to have a wrinkle finish, the effect is too random and unreliable. Used it for racing stripes and it's really odd. Tough stuff but weird looking.


    Sent from your prison purse.

  12. #12
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    479

    Default

    You don't really need the SprayMax for a helmet... that stuff is good for tins (especially gas tanks) because it's essentially catalyzed clearcoat in a rattlecan so it's gasoline-resistant. But the SEM clearcoat should be just fine for a helmet.

    www.flamethrowercustoms.com
    www.flamethrowercustoms.blogspot.com

  13. #13
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    803

    Default

    I'm working on my first helmet now and I used the duplicolor primer and it looks great so far I think. I gave it like 3 coats (20 min in between) and plan on letting it dry for about an hour or two then I'm gonna start with the paint job. I also plan on sanding it before I apply pain with 1000 grit. I drilled out the snaps because I ordered new ones so I can finish the inside of the helmet as well.
    here are some progression shots.



    Also I just ordered the spraymay 2k today because I want to do my helmet and hit my gas tank after a spill I had

  14. #14
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,732

    Default

    So far so good, I like that helmet, its going to be a good looking lid when you're done.


    Sent from your prison purse.

  15. #15
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    112

    Default

    OhioFlameThrower: Thanks for the tip. I guess I might go with the SEM, especially because I just got a call from the paint guy and said his warehouse is out of 2K right now. Not to mention, the SEM is quite a bit cheaper. PS I checked out your blog and site, looks good man! You do some real great work!

    Detale: Dude looks good man! That helmet should be rad, keep posting pics, I wanna see how it comes out. Got any pics of the Dupilcolor primer your are using? Came out good.

  16. #16
    Senior Member

    Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

    Get Adobe Flash player


    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    248

    Default

    Ohio Flame Thrower,
    Have a question for you. I have been reading your responses to some of the threads and followinf them to paint my gas tank. I seemed to have come to a blank spot in the painting process. I am at a point wear my tank is ready for clearcoating. My tank is 2 colors done in rattle can enamel. I sanded the whole tank to bare metal, wet sanded with 1000 grit between each coat but I wouldn't think i should wet sand before the clearcoat even though it seems like it could be smoother because of the nature of the rattle can finish. But I thought I read somewear that I should or use some kind of mediam cut pre wax cleaner for a smoother surface before the clearcoat. to work with. I checked out your website and you do awesome work so I thought if anybody would know it is you. What is the next step after the paint and before the clearcoat? Also, do you wax and buff after the clearcoat and if so how long of a drying period should I give it?

Share This



Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Log in

Log in