Internal Wiring on Friscos-Question

[KickassSeaBass]

So I tried to find a good answer about this but couldn't really come up with anything concrete so I figured I would throw this out there:

I have a bone stock '96 Sportster and am currently running stock controls with all the stock wiring and I was wondering if I wanted to internally wire some Biltwell Friscos, would the stock wires be long enough to internally wire? I ask because I don't want to buy a set, drill holes only to find that the wires are not long enough. I am going to get rid of the signals so it would only be the wires for the starter, kill switch, and high/low beam. Eventually I would love to lose all the wires and relocate but I don't have the money or skills for that yet.

Also, if I am internally wiring and running stock controls should I get dimpled or not dimpled bars?

In case anyone is wondering I can't weld or fabricate (though I would love to learn) but I am pretty handy and have some tools and a shop manual. Also, I am not that awesome with electrical wiring so I would love to avoid having to solder wire together to lengthen them.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

[BCRIDE]

Stock controls will need the dimpled version. Getting the wires thru them will be a challenge but isn't impossible. Just make sure if you are drilling holes, clean up the edges so you don't cut the wires over time with a sharp edges. Tie a small nut to some light string (the nut gives it weight so you can move the bars to get it to "fall" thru each angle) then you can pull one single piece of wire thru with that string. (cut a scrap piece of wire to you as your pull wire cause its stronger). String will break mid way thru pulling the thickness of the wire harness. I would guess you wouldn't be able to fit the stock plugs/connectors thru the bars so you'll prob have to cut me off and re-solder them back on but that's easy because you can just match up the colors. Sounds like it'll be rad when it's done, post some pics after. Good luck.

[elmiguel13]

If your getting rid of the signals, you dont need to internally wire those bars

1. Get a push button for your starter. Doesn't even have wires, 3 screws and your done.

2. Run/Off button can be connected, (looped) so its always on, your key will now be your only off switch.

3. High Low can be wired as ON OFF ON , 3 position toggle switch mounted on your headlight shell or where you like.

Easy money, especially if you already have a diagram. Good Luck and search "re-wiring a sporty" for any questions.

[ThePete]

Stock controls won't need dimpled friscos if you run the wires internally, but to do so you're gonna have to cut and solder some wire. I used some if the threads from inside of some 550 cord to pull the wire. What you do is drill your holes out, debur the ever living fuck out of the holes and use compressed air to push the thread down the exit hole at the base of the bars (plug all the other holes up it makes this easier) Trust me its easier to pull wire when you have extra and soldering is a no brainer. Can't say for 100% of all the sportsers out there but stock throttle, clutch and brake lines will mount up really well, I had to bend the brake line a little for a good fit but if you're careful that won't matter. I really love the Frisco's on my bike, I imagine that on a Sporty they'd be tits too.

*** I know you want to avoid soldering anythimg but its a skill you really do want to develop. Any soldered connection is better (when done correctly) than ANY type of connector. Connectors are easy and quick but eventually they will corode and cause headaches. Even if you decide not to pull wire and want to run remote switches you're going to have to solder your connections. Bite the bullet and think of all cool things you can do with wire and practice it a few times so you know you've got it down. Don't skimp out on shrink tubing, electrical tape is nasty shit to have to pull apart later down the line. If you want to bundle your wires together do a little planning as to how hou want things to look and pull the wire through some hollow cord (I use 550 cord a lot for this) or flexible tubing.

**** (yes again) If you want to eventually run all the buttons off the bars just do it from the get go, ask aroind to see if anyone is close that doesn't mind giving you a hand. Its actually going to be easier to run the buttons off the bars then to have to pull wire, save up a little and get quality switches. I think there is a thread on here somewhere on how to remove the pods from the clutch and brake levers and still have the finished product look good. You've got access to a shit load of resources on here. Take the time to think out what you want to do and get all the stuff you think you'll need together, double check it to be sure before you start (having to run out for shit at 2 am isn't being productive) As you're getting everything together see if you can find someone to teach/help you through this (beer and pizza is usually good enough for me). Doesn't matter how much help you get doing every thing the appreciation of a job well done that you did yourself is worth the satisfaction. Plus respect/bragging rites that come with doing shit yourself can't be beat.

[BCRIDE]

Elmiguel13 has the best solution. Makes the most sence and would be the coolest

[KickassSeaBass]

BCRIDE-I agree Elmiguel13 has a great idea going.

Elmiguel13- I was thinking of doing this right off the bat. I previously had found some of the threads on re-wiring and funny enough it is not the re-wire that I am worried about but the more the fact that I can't weld or fabricate, don't have the money to pay someone to do it, and don't want to do a shitty job because of lack of skill.

1. Do you know where I can find a push button starter that just screws in? Where does it go?

2. How do you loop the kill switch? To itself?

3. How do I install the toggle switch if I can't weld it on/fabricate a mounting bracket?

ThePete-Man I know, I am really pumped for the Friscos. I am pretty sure you are right on about the throttle, clutch and brake, they should all be fine (plus a little brake bend for sure).

***I guess it is just time to learn to solder. Any thoughts on where to pick up the necessary soldering tools (I will probly end up at RadioShack). Also for shrink tubing do I need some sort of heat gun to make it shrink around the wires? Also thanks for the tip on the hollow tubing (RadioShack again?). By the way are you saying its better to cut and solder than to try and take apart the deutsch connector? Also any thoughts about how to relocated switches with out welding/fab? I feel like with out those skills (or a friend who can) I am SOL.

****Ya I was kinda thinking the old motto "Do it right the first time" Any ideas where I can get some quality switches, otherwise I'll end up at Autozone. I will try and check to find the thread about removing pods and keeping levers. Thank you so much for all your help. Also I will take your advice:

I live in LA and if anyone knows how to/wants to help me rewire and relocate some switches, replace the pods and clean up my handle bars, I have a garage, the time, a couple of six packs, a pizza and a whole lots of gratitude if your interested.

Thanks any and everyone for their help.

[CanineMerc]

The "kill switch" just breaks the connection, so just wire them shits together. I put my hi beam low beam is on my head light like triumph used to. You dont have to weld anything, just drill a hole. Its not too hard, just gotta get in there and do it.

[KickassSeaBass]

Ok so the kill switch sounds pretty easy, Just wire together, I will check my wiring diagram and put them together.

Also, I got a drill so that works out good for the light toggle. Any tips on how to wire a 3 way toggle? High/Low/Off? Its a '96 Sportster and the High/Low makes sense cause thats already on the pod control but the Off is what throws me because there is no off already, bike is always running the light.

Also leaves me with the started button question: how to wire it, where to put it and how to mount it. Read some stuff about a motor boat ignition being used as a starter. Maybe even can fit into the stock ignition housing.

[elmiguel13]

No boat ignition unless you wanna start your bike like a car. That's a little more complicated. The starter button bolts to the outside of your starter with 3 screws. Take old cover off, install new cover, done. No wiring, couldn't be easier.

Toggle switch, find the smallest 3 position water proof (up to you) that is ON-OFF-ON. Go to Radio Shack and tell em what your doing, they'll help you get the right part. You will now have an OFF for your lights, which will come in handy for low battery starts, day time riding etc, coming home late, whatever or just keep it always "on" the low beam.

Go to a home improvement store of your choice, and buy a soldering iron, (not the gun type), flux and solder. Also some shrink tube to cover any solder joints you make, or you can use liquid electrical tape. Probably $20 all together and you can add it to your tools. Probably cost you $40 bucks in parts/tools and now you can change your bars over and over.

Here's a link for the starter button:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrome-Direct-Starter-Button-for-Harley-Big-Twin-XL-/140713135311?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c3280ccf&vxp=mtr

[Hellbound]

There are plunger starter assemblies that mount right on the starter.

[ThePete]

As far as a good soldering gun goes, you don't have to stress it, I use a piece of shit, no variable temps, no fancy batteries or butane heat. There are nice ones out there but you're not soldering micro electronics. Home Depot, Radio Shack, Lowes (I'm actually using a leather/wood burning wand with a pointy tip). I think I got the solder at radio shack and you can find heat shrink tubing at just about any auto parts place, again Home Depot and Radio Shack (shop around it can be expensive) or regular pvc tubing (really good for protecting the wires going through metal holes). I've used a hair drier, lighter and I have a heat gun, the heat gun works the best but any of these will work (a lighter can litterally be a pain sometimes though)

I'd love to help you out on this I actually like fooling around with wiring but I'm out in Murrieta and this weekend is unfuck the garage door weekend. Busted a spring on my the double roll up door, guide cables got tangled when the opener pulled the door sideways and fucked up the track. Never messed with one, shouldn't be fun.

[brach77]

If your getting rid of the signals, you dont need to internally wire those bars

1. Get a push button for your starter. Doesn't even have wires, 3 screws and your done.

2. Run/Off button can be connected, (looped) so its always on, your key will now be your only off switch.

3. High Low can be wired as ON OFF ON , 3 position toggle switch mounted on your headlight shell or where you like.

Easy money, especially if you already have a diagram. Good Luck and search "re-wiring a sporty" for any questions.

this is how I did my bike and I have about 145 dollars in it. this accounts for whiskey throttle, toggles, and banjo pressure switch. spent about 6 hours start to finish could have been quicker but I took lots of beer breaks. and if something goes wrong I wont have to fish out a bunch of wires from my bars.

[ThePete]

Combination kill switch ignition key. Pull the plug and you litterally pull the plug on your bike. It acts as a key. Kinda slick, I'm going to be doing a how to on making one of these things up after I run mine for a bit to make sure there are no issues.

[elmiguel13]

this is how I did my bike and I have about 145 dollars in it. this accounts for whiskey throttle, toggles, and banjo pressure switch. spent about 6 hours start to finish could have been quicker but I took lots of beer breaks. and if something goes wrong I wont have to fish out a bunch of wires from my bars.

Your right. Forgot you wont be able to use the stock Harley throttle without the pod. The Biltwell one is the best, but not the least expensive. You could get one for under $20, not as good but adequate. I'd just make sure and get the 2 cable push/pull just in case.

[CanineMerc]

I didn't use a 3 way switch on mine. Just on and off, i.e. low beam hi beam. Works great and clean. I put my starter button on the horn.