Scratch Start Tigs?

[TimB1640]

Ha that's funny, all of the machines I've been looking at were just mentioned. I havnt looked into the longevity machine but I will. The everlast and eastwood both seem to be a good value and those are the ones I've been looking at. The next thing that seems to come up when I ask about these machines is the availability of consumables and repair. Any nationwide carriers for these?

i heard some airgas shops ( but not all) are carrying the everlast

[LDNCLR]

I was in this same situation a few months back. I didnt want to drop the cash for a true TIG, but also wasnt concerned with aluminum welding capabilities. A good friend of mine who is a pipeline welder convinced me to go scratch start. I found a hobart stickmate at a pawn shop, it was new in the box, never had the stick holder or ground clamp attached, for $200. My buddy traded me the tig leads and a bottle/ regulator to do the conversion.
There is no doubt that the foot pedal machines will give you more capability, especially with thinner material. But, I feel like if you learn the basics with a scratch start rig, you will only be that much better when you get the adjustability of the full blown tigs.

Also if you use your filler rod to strike the arc, you never contaminate the tungsten.
Im pretty much self taught, and still have a ton to learn (only had the machine for about 10 months). But as a beginner I would say worry less about a machine with bells and whistles and more about seat time, the basics, and practice, and practice some more.

mild steel seat gusset



and sorry about the cell phone pics...

stainless jockey shift handle

[cros36]

what do you mean if you use the filler rod you can never contaminate the tungsten?

[LDNCLR]

you strike the filler across the work and bump the tungsten to start the arc. Its like striking a match, but use the filler rod to hit the tungsten and the work for a split second at the same time. its alot simpler than it sounds....

[cros36]

you strike the filler across the work and bump the tungsten to start the arc. Its like striking a match, but use the filler rod to hit the tungsten and the work for a split second at the same time. its alot simpler than it sounds....

so you scratch against the filler with the filler grounded to the work right?

really tho, how is that any different than just using the work as your scratch surface?
not being a dick, just wondering if there really is a difference.

[jbone357]

so you scratch against the filler with the filler grounded to the work right?

really tho, how is that any different than just using the work as your scratch surface?
not being a dick, just wondering if there really is a difference.

What u do is, get the tungsten close to the work and just "flick" the filler wire into the gap, arc is started. You are saving the tungsten by not just jabing it into the work, more of a glance. Also Miller maxstar 150 can be had for a decent price and will run either 110 or 220.

[CMA406]

this doesnt have to do with scratch start, but i recently bought a new tig, and ponied up for a lincoln 225. Was it expensive? fuck yea, but the support/ warranty and quality product outweight the cost for me. say the eastwood does break, getting it fixed probably requires it sending back to them for warranty i assume? I had an issue with my lincoln, brought it in, and 30 minutes later left with a brand new machine....just sayin

[gs650]

The eastwood store in 2 miles from my house.

[soulmachine]

there is an airgas shop the next town over and they stock the everlast machines so I think that's the route I'm gonna go. Ill probly pick it up on Monday or Tuesday. Thanks for the input dudes. Might as well keep this going, I'm sure I'm not the only one curious about this subject.

[skoggy]

I'm running a miller 150stl which is the lift arc. Runs awesome, welded frames to light gauge tanks. They have a foot pedal available for about $250 which would be cool but not needed. Practice, patients is what this welder needs and for the price I'm happy. Plus lift arc has minimal contamination.

[skoggy]

Plus it comes in Kit with a stick attachment and a nice storage box with everything you need to start minus the rod. Only thing I regret is no aluminum welding.

[Grtdane99]

I use the eastwood tig 200 on a daily basis and like it alot. Super easy to use not sure how long she will hold up but ive had it for 2 months now and am pleased

[themetalshop]

You don't scratch start it. All you do is keep about a cunt hair off of your work and
it will start the arc. Then you just pull it back just slightly and start welding. It takes
awhile to learn, but once you get the hang of it it's easy.

[SyndicateChoppers]

real gear usa tig machine from GTS Welco
its an absolute great little machine
comes with a warranty that GTS Welco stands by
its a nice small in size machine and is a 200 amp output which means it is way more than enough to do anything motorcycle related
it cost under $500
and you can use a standard miller type foot pedal with it
Ive been using mine since about June time and it welds just as good as my miller that I was using previously.

The only downside to it is that for the small one they make it only does steel (not aluminum)

They do make the same machine in AC/DC but its physically bigger in size and and the price is almost double
if your on a tight budget I would go with this
Ive been welding for over 10 years and this the absolute best entry level tig machine that is actually affordable for someone that does not have $1500 to spend

[Jinkzd]

I learned how to TIG on scratch start. I think the contamination argument only goes so far. I work in the power industry and have seen some absolutely pretty welds done out of position in inclement weather, in the field using scratch start. Like everything, its all about skill and experience. My boilermaker buddy can use any piece of junk machine and turn out top notch work while complaining to me about his wife and laughing, whereas I can use a Cadillac machine and turn out welds my daughter would think were ugly! New and cheap is cool, but I would stick with a big brand. You pay upfront but the parts are soooo easy to get, and the service is top notch. I love my Maxstar 150stl.