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  1. #1

    Default GOTDANG front brake keeps lockin up so i turn to you

    guys, i got this damn wideglide as my long distance rider and when i got it the front brake was frozen

    ok no biggie i had an extra caliper put that on, still locked up.
    ok no biggie maybe the fluid is dirty so i flushed it with alcohol and rebled it with DOT 5, still locked up
    ok, maybe the piston on the caliper needs to be taken out and greased, still locked up
    ok, maybe the line is fucked so i put a new line on, still locked up
    DAMN IT, ok so i rebuilt the master, still locked up
    so now i but a different master on it with a fresh rebuild kit and it's not fully locking up but it's dragging on the rotor a bit not enough to affect being able to move it but the rotor get real warm and the brake lever after about a week is ROCK hard when i go to pull it.

    I'm using DOT 5 per the cap on the master, should i try using 4?

    my main question here fellas is what the fuck?! it's now a completely different brake system and I'm having the same issues. any insight would be helpful

  2. #2

    Default

    Did you change the brake lever? There needs to be free play between the lever and the brake plunger, I would check that adjustment.

  3. #3

    Join Date
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    Well, you don't grease caliper pistons. You want to keep petroleum products away from brake components, even when you are cleaning them up or rebuilding. Use brake cleaner, alcohol, and brake fluid only. So, if you did grease your caliper piston there's your problem.

    Disassemble the caliper and clean the inside, and be SURE you remove all the corrosion and swarf especially in the seal and boot grooves. Be sure the piston is clean and corrosion free. (The pistons are usually hard anodized and you can clean them with fine (0000) steel wool.) I just did a pair of calipers this morning, and found soda blasting was great to remove corrosion and swarf from the inside.

    Also, a hand lever that does not let the master cylinder piston come all the way back to its rest position can make the brakes drag.

    Jim

  4. #4
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    How old is the soft line? They can and do (on cars,trucks and bikes) deteriorate internally and act like a check valve.

    SInce "wide glide" (those are forks) has zero meaning when it comes to brakes show us clear pics of your system.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    How old is the soft line? They can and do (on cars,trucks and bikes) deteriorate internally and act like a check valve.

    SInce "wide glide" (those are forks) has zero meaning when it comes to brakes show us clear pics of your system.
    95 fxdwg single disc set up same thats on just about any single disc dyna

  6. #6
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    Hose is collapsed..........

  7. #7
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    open the brake bleeder if that frees it up something is preventing the fluid from returning to the reservoir, brake line-master cylinder piston covering the return hole. If it's still locked up it's sumptin in the caliper.
    Dusty
    Last edited by DustyDave; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:17 AM.

  8. #8

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    when i release the bleeder it opens up

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radmond View Post
    when i release the bleeder it opens up
    Yep it's under pressure for sure.......

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Radmond View Post
    when i release the bleeder it opens up
    Ok now get it locked up again and loosen the hose at the master cyl if it stays locked replace the hose if not tear into the master sumptin is keeping the return hole closed.

  11. #11

    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by 70fatster View Post
    Did you change the brake lever? There needs to be free play between the lever and the brake plunger, I would check that adjustment.
    This.
    I've just had the same issue with my rear brake set up.
    It would ride about a mile down the road then the brake would lock solid. The issue was that there was no free play and the brake was dragging enough to generate enough heat to expand everything and lock it up.

    I also changed the fluid as I cant imagine its as effective after being boiled

  12. #12

    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    ... Also, a hand lever that does not let the master cylinder piston come all the way back to its rest position can make the brakes drag...
    I've seen this with several aftermarket levers. In some cases there were casting flashes on the lever that wouldn't allow the piston to return back to normal, in others the nub of the lever that pushes on the piston was dimensionally out of spec.



    Quote Originally Posted by Radmond View Post
    ... I'm using DOT 5 per the cap on the master, should i try using 4?
    Are you using DOT 5 or 5.1? DOT 5 is silicon based and therefore not compatible with DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 which are glycol based. Personally I was never a fan of 5 because (at the time) it had a lower boiling point which was a concern on my road race bikes and I didn't like the lever feel of silicon based fluid so I'd flush and thoroughly clean all brake components and use DOT 5.1, or 4 on my street bikes. That's how I do with my Sporties to this day.
    Last edited by Skjoll; 3 Weeks Ago at 11:49 AM.

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