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  1. #81
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    I put 20 inch apes on my bike and uses a set of push pull cables from venhill usa. Ordered the longest generic cables they had and got lucky i didnt even have to cut them but maybe two inches. I think the whole deal cost like 35 bucks which was a way better deal than anywhere else. They even sent me an email telling me when they shipped and when they would arrive. After i got them they sent me an email asking if i liked them and asked me to recomend them and contact them if i had any problems. Real good to deal with. When i soldered on the ends i drilled a real big hole in a 2x4 covered the hole in flux and than melted the solder into that. I also split the ends of the wire after i had them through the thing and than dipped it in that puddle of solder. Worked real good. Than i grinded the extra solder off and that waz it. Much easier than i thought it would be. And way cheaper too. No problems so far and that was like 3 months ago.

  2. #82
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    I get cables at the Honda dealership by my house. They have a generic cable they can order. They cost $1.99. One dude knows me and knows what I'm looking for, some of the other dudes think I'm nuts asking for a generic throttle cable, but it is in their part book. Just gotta get em to find it.

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnygra View Post
    I get cables at the Honda dealership by my house. They have a generic cable they can order. They cost $1.99. One dude knows me and knows what I'm looking for, some of the other dudes think I'm nuts asking for a generic throttle cable, but it is in their part book. Just gotta get em to find it.
    You should grab the honda OE part number on this I wouldn't mind looking into it. The dealer here has a new parts guy every week with less and less exp. I usually look up my own numbers and just give it to them and review them in the order too.

  4. #84

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    Quote Originally Posted by austintylerr View Post
    Figured I'd post this here since its relevant.

    I got a new throttle, cables, and VMs from MMM at 650central as well as the cables to go with it. After installing everything and trying multiple ways to route the cables, I've come to the conclusion that the housing on the cable (carb side) needs to be cut back about 1/4" because its preventing the slides from dropping all the way. I've tried using my diagonal cutters to trim it back but I feel like its going to cut the wire. What would y'all suggest to cut it back?
    For this I've used a small tubing cutter, available in the plumbing section of home supply centers, hardware stores, or even a good auto supply store will have 'em.Works like a charm!! Didn't fray ONE strand of the inner cable... Hope this helps...

  5. #85
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    I need to make a tiny nipple for the carb end of my throttle cable. I'm think something like 1/8" welding rod with a tiny hole drilled in it might work. The nipple is the opposite way round to most every clutch or brake cable I've seen.

    I've checked in all the local bike shops, but nobody has anything like it.

    Carb is a Mikuni, where the cable feeds through the screw on cap, then through a small hole in the slide, and slips into a slot to hold it.

  6. #86
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    measure it....
    you can also make the cable end with a fishing weight makin' kit and a hand made mould, most are lead anyway, but I like the idea of using brass ferels and solder.

  7. #87
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    Thought I'd pop in and post a thanks for this thread. I found it Googling cable ends.

    I'm putting CVK 40mm carbs on an old BMW 900, bored to 1050, and needed to adapt some KLR choke and throttle cables. Kawasaki's KLR 650 uses the same carbs, minus the accelerator pump as Harleys. I found my two carbs & all 4 of the cables for under $200.

    Flanders is a great resource, I got all my bits, both ferrules and cable ends for about $10. I managed to get my sizes right the first time--a digital micrometer from Harbor Freight helped. For those who haven't dealt with Flanders, they do offer individual parts--that was a little confusing to me, they list bags of 25, too. But the good part is there's no need to buy massive collections of cable parts in one of those huge motion-pro kits. Flanders calls to check your order before they ship, and there is a small $2 charge for orders under $20. Shipping was fast, ordered Thursday, shipped Friday, in my mail box on Monday.

    It looks like a product called Ruby Fluid will do the job of getting the solder to stick to the cable. http://rubyfluidflux.com/Soldering_Flux.html I'm hoping the local plumbing supply store stocks it, if not Do-It-Best associated hardware stores do. And McMasters-Carr. And Amazon. Small containers--less than $5.

    Again, thanks to the OP and all the other contributors to this thread. It's helped me whole lot.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by KingHerald View Post
    I need to make a tiny nipple for the carb end of my throttle cable. I'm think something like 1/8" welding rod with a tiny hole drilled in it might work. The nipple is the opposite way round to most every clutch or brake cable I've seen.

    I've checked in all the local bike shops, but nobody has anything like it.

    Carb is a Mikuni, where the cable feeds through the screw on cap, then through a small hole in the slide, and slips into a slot to hold it.
    I have a set of those carbs, mine are VM38s. You can get the right cable end from Flanders, the p/n is 620-24749. 64 cents each plus shipping and a $2 surcharge. The ferrule to finish off the end of the outer cable is called a Derby ferrule, p/n 620-20920, 96 cents ea.
    Last edited by 685; 04-01-2014 at 8:58 AM. Reason: add quote

  9. #89
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    I'm having a hard time finding some Bakers Soldering fluid over here in the US. Any good substitutes? What am I looking for in the flux that will work for this application?

  10. #90
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    have question about brake and clutch cables. should i do the end at the lever or the other end on these cables. i am cutting stock ones down.

  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHEN View Post
    I'm having a hard time finding some Bakers Soldering fluid over here in the US. Any good substitutes? What am I looking for in the flux that will work for this application?
    Would like to know this too

  12. #92
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    Flanders cables has the equivalent to bakers. i just orderd that and some ends from them the other day

  13. #93
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    As far as flux to make the cables. Oatey #5 solder paste. They sell it in any hardware/homedepot in my part of the country. Now onto my cable problems. I bought a generic throttle and clutch cable from venhill us. I haven't done much with the throttle cable but it looks like it is going to work out great. The clutch cable is a different story. The generic clutch cable kit from venhill is to small a diameter and none of the cable ends are the correct size for my application. Which I should have started with. 1979 fxef. I got rid of the stock clutch lever and bought one off ebay that came from a 95 fx. I looked around and cannot find a cable end that goes on the lever end. So I either have to a) go with a stock shovel clutch lever. I'm not going to do this because I don't want the built in button housing. B) Order a lever for a panhead. This look like my best option. Or c) buy a random Honda clutch lever, bore it out to fit 1" handelbars, and then hope I can get the cable parts to make it work. I realy want to make my own cables. I have been racking my brain trying to figure out the correct combo of cable, conduit, cable ends, and ferrules to buy. I calls Flanders today to try and get some expert help. I was told they could send me parts but I would probably get the wrong ones and be upset. They did say they would be more than happy to make me a clutch cable All I had to do was ship them my old cable and new clutch lever and tell them how much longer I wanted it and they would make it and send everything back. So if any one can point me in the right direction... Is the cable a 2.5mm or a 3mm. If it is 2.5mm do I use the 6mm or 7mm conduit. The trans end of my cable has a lead ball that measures 7.6mm. What cable end fitting would I get from Flanders to replace the ball. I don't have the pan clutch lever yet so I can't measure anything but I will need a cable end and a ferrule that fits. Any ideas? Also. If I'm gonna buy cable makings I would have enough left to make a few more cables. I would like to make some for friends with stock shovel setups that just need longer cables. What ferrule/cable end would I get for the lever side of the cable. I can't seem to find exact replacements in the Flanders catalog. Ughhhhhhh. So frustrating. Sorry if this post is erratic and hard to follow. My frustration is getting to me. Any body with any info on any of this would be appreciated.

  14. #94
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    Good post Sumo,

    I need to make up some longer cables and have been itching to have a go at making my own - thanks for the Fernox link.

    Nick

  15. #95
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    Awesome. Thanks for sharing

  16. #96
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    Finaly seeing a decent cable building kit including sheathin and a decent end assortment on the market place now

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paris View Post
    As far as flux to make the cables. Oatey #5 solder paste. They sell it in any hardware/homedepot in my part of the country. Now onto my cable problems. I bought a generic throttle and clutch cable from venhill us. I haven't done much with the throttle cable but it looks like it is going to work out great. The clutch cable is a different story. The generic clutch cable kit from venhill is to small a diameter and none of the cable ends are the correct size for my application. Which I should have started with. 1979 fxef. I got rid of the stock clutch lever and bought one off ebay that came from a 95 fx. I looked around and cannot find a cable end that goes on the lever end. So I either have to a) go with a stock shovel clutch lever. I'm not going to do this because I don't want the built in button housing. B) Order a lever for a panhead. This look like my best option. Or c) buy a random Honda clutch lever, bore it out to fit 1" handelbars, and then hope I can get the cable parts to make it work. I realy want to make my own cables. I have been racking my brain trying to figure out the correct combo of cable, conduit, cable ends, and ferrules to buy. I calls Flanders today to try and get some expert help. I was told they could send me parts but I would probably get the wrong ones and be upset. They did say they would be more than happy to make me a clutch cable All I had to do was ship them my old cable and new clutch lever and tell them how much longer I wanted it and they would make it and send everything back. So if any one can point me in the right direction... Is the cable a 2.5mm or a 3mm. If it is 2.5mm do I use the 6mm or 7mm conduit. The trans end of my cable has a lead ball that measures 7.6mm. What cable end fitting would I get from Flanders to replace the ball. I don't have the pan clutch lever yet so I can't measure anything but I will need a cable end and a ferrule that fits. Any ideas? Also. If I'm gonna buy cable makings I would have enough left to make a few more cables. I would like to make some for friends with stock shovel setups that just need longer cables. What ferrule/cable end would I get for the lever side of the cable. I can't seem to find exact replacements in the Flanders catalog. Ughhhhhhh. So frustrating. Sorry if this post is erratic and hard to follow. My frustration is getting to me. Any body with any info on any of this would be appreciated.
    I'm using a Honda clutch lever on my build and 7/8" bars. I bought a cheap clutch cable off ebay for Harleys and made my own end to fit the Honda lever out of the unthreaded part of a long steel bolt. I used two drill bits in my cheapo HF drill press to make the hole. I spent less than $20 per cable. The cables are closer to 3mm (.110) and have a 7mm conduit (sheath?).
    If you are using a Harley lever, does it use the banjo (loop) looking fitting? If so, maybe your local HD dealership can give you an old trashed cable and you can de-solder the end off. Or maybe check some HD forums for a broken one? Or, buy a cheap cable with your lever fitting, and make (or buy) the tranny end ball. I'd buy a ball end that's the right diameter with a smaller hole and drill it to fit.
    BTW, I don't think Oatey's No.5 will work on stainless cables.

    If you have any Q's, feel free to PM me, I may be able to help out.

    Bottom Feeder Solder Pot:


    1" pipe cap (de-galvanized with muriatic acid). Dip you knip in flux, dip in pot. I heat it with my handy-dandy bernzotorch.

    Edit: scroll to bottom of page (Honda-Davidson clutch cable).
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showth...d=1#post673846
    Last edited by Motocrash; 06-06-2015 at 1:10 PM.

  18. #98
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    excellent tips !

    I have been cutting and fitting ends like this:


  19. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by IchibanMoto View Post
    excellent tips !

    I have been cutting and fitting ends like this:

    Good to see you posting here. I'm a big fan of your tutorials.

  20. #100
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    wait... dude just melted a louded round above an open flame......... am i missing something here or is that gun powder going to fall into that lead and possibly ignite!? also thats a copper jacket round wtf?

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