CHOP CULT HOME
NEWS   FORUM   EVENTS   CLASSIFIEDS   BLOGDUMP   COMMUNITY   MEMBERS
Email Password
Go Back   Chop Cult >   > Main Forum
Search

Main Forum General tech, how-to's, events, ride reports and anything else related to custom motorcycles

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-05-2011   #61
 
Boylecomm's Avatar
Boylecomm

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 381

A palm sander, 220-1200 grit & every grit in between. wet sanding by hand 1200grit. and a lot of polishing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by REV View Post
what all was done to that tank to get it looking so shiny? i have a motor that needs that treatment.
Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2011   #62
 
Boylecomm's Avatar
Boylecomm

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 381

I've had pretty good luck with Eastwood diamond clear. but I only paint things that will rust. I keep on top of the aluminum and stainless.



http://www.eastwood.com/ew-diamond-c...ero-11-oz.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by rider728 View Post
just wondering if anyone has pics of stuff that has been stripped and smoothed or polished using this method that then covered the parts with a heavy dose of clearcoat, either matte semi-gloss or gloss. i'm planning on doing this for my current shovel project and was wondering if anyone else had tried it. i realize heated parts like engine or exhaust wouldn't hold clearcoat, but fuel and oil tanks, handlebars, frames, head and tail light shells, sissybars, fenders, frontends, etc. might work with just a liberal helping of clearcoat to protect them. i really enjoy the look of metal on it's own and am trying to do it with as little paint as possible and without too much rusting.
Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2011   #63
 
rusjack's Avatar
rusjack

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 479

I still haven't found a source for anything but the 80grit brushes in Canada, and harbor freight won't sell em online. Anyone find another online source? I love the ones I have but I need some finer grits.
Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2011   #64
 
fenderbja's Avatar
fenderbja

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 16

this is awesome - thanks
Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2011   #65
 
MarkF's Avatar
MarkF

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 18

looks like I got some new plans for my engine covers.....
Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2012   #66
 
Nosebleed's Avatar
Nosebleed

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,806

Just found this thread and super stoked! I picked up a set of crusty AMF mag wheels today that have a lot of white oxidation on them. Was looking for a way to clean them up on the cheap and easy before I send them out for powder coat. Looks like a trip to HF or Loews is in order.
Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012   #67
 
dirtbag's Avatar
dirtbag

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 402

Some recent
Attached Images
File Type: jpg GetInline.jpg (22.3 KB, 123 views)
Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012   #68
 
easyspeed's Avatar
easyspeed

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 540

I've been using a bit of stainless steel on my shovel for brackets etc. simply because it's a sheet metal we scrap quit a bit at work so its free for me! But the point is just to tell everyone that these metals all have their own qualities.

There are different grade of aluminum and stainless steel. Getting ahold of the wrong grade can be a pain in the ass. I usually use 304 grade s.s. and 3003 grade aluminum. Those are a softer grade than 316 s.s. and 6061 or 7175 aluminum. Which makes them sand and polish a lot faster and look better. Plus the softer grade can be bent and manipulated while the higher grade will break and crack.

I've also had luck with final sanding with 1500 paper and wd40. then I use mothers polish and the drill ball thing that mothers sales. works so fast!
Reply With Quote
Old 01-15-2012   #69
 
dirtbag's Avatar
dirtbag

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 402

a few more
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 0728011551a.jpg (310.6 KB, 137 views)
File Type: jpg 0728011551b.jpg (312.8 KB, 115 views)
Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2012   #70
 
Nosebleed's Avatar
Nosebleed

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,806

Picked up some of the nylon wheels/cups today at the local HF, they run around $3.99 each in different sizes and either coarse or medium grit. Not sure if they have them in a higher grit fine but my HF didn't have them if so.

Hoping to start on the mag wheels once I grab some NevRDull from the auto parts store.
Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2012   #71
 
good2bsims's Avatar
good2bsims

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boylecomm View Post
Here on the R100 you can see some of the case covers are finished this was done with a nylon britstle wheel & Never Dull. Smear on the never dull and have at it in circular motions until it dries up under the wheel, wipe it down with a rag. check out the difference.


Are you leaving the wadding from the Never Dull on the material when you use the brushes? Or just the liquid that comes from the wadding?
Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2012   #72
 
Boylecomm's Avatar
Boylecomm

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 381

Just the liquid. you'll see it turn black & sometimes get gummy, just keep the drill moving don't sit in one spot.
You may have to go over it more than once depending on the condition. that BMW motor was horrible and took a while.

Hope that helped

KIm Boyle

Quote:
Originally Posted by good2bsims View Post
Are you leaving the wadding from the Never Dull on the material when you use the brushes? Or just the liquid that comes from the wadding?
Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2012   #73
 
tuberider1995's Avatar
tuberider1995

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 43

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLICKstripes View Post
I'm trying to polish the sissy bar on my XS which is stainless.. my question is, how do I remove the burn spots where we heated it to bend? I've spent too damn long with WD40 and different grade steel wool by hand! Any suggestions on what to use? Nylon wheels or scotchbrite discs? I've got about 4 different polishes and NeverDull as well. Thanks ahead!
Try using pickling paste, just be very careful it's acid. Its amazing stuff.
Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2012   #74
 
kraznos's Avatar
kraznos

Content on this page requires a newer version of Adobe Flash Player.

Get Adobe Flash player

 
Posts: n/a

shit looks so god buffed
Reply With Quote
Reply
Share This



           

Forum Jump
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes



NEWS   FORUM   EVENTS   CLASSIFIEDS   BLOGDUMP   COMMUNITY   MEMBERS
CHOP CULT HOME

 

Advertise    |    Contact    |    ©2009ChopCult    |    Report Abuse    |    Conduct

Chopcult on Facebook