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Old 12-06-2010   #41
 
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Hook up a vacuumcleaner in some way to take care of the dust when you do this. Grindng aluminium, or even worse magnesium with flapwheels generates a lot of aluminium dust and that shit can selfigninte just by static discharge and cause one helluva bang.

Aluminium powder is used as an accelerating agent in some explosives so be careful and keep a clean shop.
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Old 12-07-2010   #42
 
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Has some one found the nylon brushes online? I searched through Harbor Freights site and came up with NADA.
A link would be good.
Thanks for the help.
Later,
Kenny
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Old 12-07-2010   #43
 
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http://www.drillspot.com/products/35...35_Wheel_Brush


http://www.sears.com.pr/shc/s/p_1016...1_00964805000P
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Old 12-07-2010   #44
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfpaak View Post
Has some one found the nylon brushes online? I searched through Harbor Freights site and came up with NADA.
A link would be good.
Thanks for the help.
Later,
Kenny
If you have a harbor freight nearby they should have them. I found them at a Harbor Freight in Riverside, CA
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Old 12-08-2010   #45
 
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Thanks guys! I was seaching with the WRONG name! Found them on Harbors website.But they are an in store item only....shizz. I am 85 miles one way from the closest store.
Thanks for the help!
Later,
Kenny
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Old 12-08-2010   #46
 
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I've found them at home depot as well.
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Old 01-14-2011   #47
 
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Great tip - another thing to buy that is worth the money. Thanks
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Old 01-15-2011   #48
 
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I got some pretty dirty engines and random parts that need to be cleaned up! Alot of good tips ill be using soon. deff a trip to HF and lowes in my future to get some disks and brushes.
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Old 01-29-2011   #49
 
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Great post just what I needed to know! Thank you!
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Old 02-15-2011   #50
 
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raw look without the rust

just wondering if anyone has pics of stuff that has been stripped and smoothed or polished using this method that then covered the parts with a heavy dose of clearcoat, either matte semi-gloss or gloss. i'm planning on doing this for my current shovel project and was wondering if anyone else had tried it. i realize heated parts like engine or exhaust wouldn't hold clearcoat, but fuel and oil tanks, handlebars, frames, head and tail light shells, sissybars, fenders, frontends, etc. might work with just a liberal helping of clearcoat to protect them. i really enjoy the look of metal on it's own and am trying to do it with as little paint as possible and without too much rusting.
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Old 02-15-2011   #51
 
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Oh great, something new to try, thanks for the copious tips.
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Old 03-15-2011   #52
 
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Hmmm, my drill is really old and just has one speed...FAST. Wonder if I will have a problem.
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Old 03-19-2011   #53
 
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what all was done to that tank to get it looking so shiny? i have a motor that needs that treatment.
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Old 03-20-2011   #54
 
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I'm trying to get a nice polished finish on my forks so this is good for me. What grit should I work up to sanding on them before I start polishing?
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Old 03-20-2011   #55
 
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Before and after with my xs side cover. I used the scotch brite multidisc to clean up all the grime then I used aircraft stripper to eat away whatever coating was on the on the cover. My next step was to sand with 700 then 1200. After that I used never dull and the scotch brite disc and it turned out pretty good. I tried to use the nylon wheels and it kept scratching the cover. The scotch brite multidisc seemed to work best for me.





I have a sissybar made of shitty flea market steel and I'm trying to clean it up using the same process. Hopefully I'll be able to make it look decent and maybe put a coat of way so it doesn't rust.
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Old 03-21-2011   #56
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCrown View Post
simple handtool...producing quality that gives the appearance of being done with hi-tech, high dollar equipment...

indeed, a great thread.
high tech high dollar, not really I started with a drill and die grinder ,and finally ended up discovering I could go to peterbuilt locally and buy the compounds and wheels that are used on big trucks,is cheaper than all the drill attachments ,and works better faster,certainlly not dumping on the original poster ,just mentioning another tip I discovered in all my polishing adventures...I bought a hand held polisher for $60 on sale,the wheels are $12 a piece and compounds about the same for a big block.I use 3 different compounds (steps) to make a mirror like surface...I use the die grinder and nylon wheels ,wire brushes,and sanding wheels to prepare any rough surface or scratches for polishing..but I am talking about making aluminum and stainless into a mirror....I would powder coat if it didnt cost me so much ,I polish because it is dirt cheap.and can last longer than poweder or paint with regular upkeep..one day I will build a powder coat oven and probably not polish as much..
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Old 06-01-2011   #57
 
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I finally got around to buying the nylon brushes at Harbor Freight. They really do work great. Thank you for this great write-up!
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Old 09-08-2011   #58
 
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I'm trying to polish the sissy bar on my XS which is stainless.. my question is, how do I remove the burn spots where we heated it to bend? I've spent too damn long with WD40 and different grade steel wool by hand! Any suggestions on what to use? Nylon wheels or scotchbrite discs? I've got about 4 different polishes and NeverDull as well. Thanks ahead!
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Old 10-05-2011   #59
 
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I use the nylon wheels & the drill for SS heat burn discolor stuff.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SLICKstripes View Post
I'm trying to polish the sissy bar on my XS which is stainless.. my question is, how do I remove the burn spots where we heated it to bend? I've spent too damn long with WD40 and different grade steel wool by hand! Any suggestions on what to use? Nylon wheels or scotchbrite discs? I've got about 4 different polishes and NeverDull as well. Thanks ahead!
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Old 10-05-2011   #60
 
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You need the least abrasive nylon wheels and constant movement to prevent scratching. I 'll also use the never dull during this process, it's kind of like wet sanding.

{QUOTE=section8joe;150889]Before and after with my xs side cover. I used the scotch brite multidisc to clean up all the grime then I used aircraft stripper to eat away whatever coating was on the on the cover. My next step was to sand with 700 then 1200. After that I used never dull and the scotch brite disc and it turned out pretty good. I tried to use the nylon wheels and it kept scratching the cover. The scotch brite multidisc seemed to work best for me.





I have a sissybar made of shitty flea market steel and I'm trying to clean it up using the same process. Hopefully I'll be able to make it look decent and maybe put a coat of way so it doesn't rust.[/QUOTE]
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