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I can't wait to see the end result. Looks real good man.
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Looking good Man!! Your switch panel looks really good. I bet its tight in there. I know mine is and I dont have quite as much as yours gong on there. Feels good to get those wires figured out tho ...huh?Comment
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Aghost - Thanks! It should be looking good here in the next few weeks!
Gabe - Yeah its REALLY tight in there haha. I barely have room to get a screw driver to tighten those screw terminals but a flat head works best and they are snug. I will be putting some liquid electrical tape on them to make sure they dont go anywhere when I'm riding. Also - now that Im done wiring it, it seems so easy! Before it was so confusing. As everything on this bike build has been for me since I really havent done any of this before has seemed so daunting at first when its over I say "oh, that wasn't so hard"
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Had been enjoying riding her around the neighborhood, to work and back and just ripping around waking up all the neighbors. There is a large industrial area near where I live so I went WOT down one of the streets, got through two gears, let off and she cut out.
Lights, starter and everything else works just wont fire. Lukcily my wiring makes it pretty easy to check so I've got to run some tests and start eliminating some things. Has gas and air, tested the plugs quick while I was on the side of the road and have no spark. I'm thinking it's either the pin connector on the control module that came loose or I've got a dead coil.
Can I use a multi-meter or check all the ignition components?Comment
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Well I guess check voltage to the coil first . If you have power going in . then there ya go. Double check all your connections . If you used any butt connectors , one of them could be loose.Comment
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Ya now that its back in my shop (had to get it towed) I can test a few things and eliminate quickly. I didnt modify any of the wiring of the ignition, except shorten them slightly at the ends for the connection to the coil so they all received new ring connectors which all looked good. I used only spade and rings on the CB's and ignition. I used spades on the CB's and think even though it'll be a little bit of a pain in the arse because its so tight I am going to switch them all to rings.
Major bummer though as it's going to be in the 70's average all week here.
Hope to get it road going again. It was mighty glorious for those few days though.
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Okay, here's what I know so far.
Gas - check
Compression - check
Spark - none
12v when ignition key switch on...
-ignition terminal on key switch
-positive coil terminal
-negative coil terminal.
There was another check at the pin connectors which said to re connect the blue wire to coil terminal and have left the spark plug out. As stated, the check said to have the positive lead to red socket plug and ground to black pin connector (ignition module side) and get around 4.5-5volts. This did not happen. Not quite sure I understand that test. Not positive where the power is coming from to test those volts. It also said to groUnd those pins with a screw driver to get a large spark at the tip, that also did not happen. Manual says to check ignition module resistance. However, if I have bad coil, would I get this result also with no spark traveling to plug? The one test I couldn't perform is ignition module ohm resistance and ignition coil test with the jumper wire.
Help me understand coils better here. I just don't want to throw parts at it to fix it, but do the essential tests to fully understand the no spark issue. By having power to the coils but no spark means bad coil or is it possible to not get a spark by other issues? With the other tests I did, anyone have any other thoughts? Bike was running flawlessly and then after a short near WOT run down the street; engine shut off. All other electronics working fine.
All wires and connections seem to be in good working order.Last edited by brooklynbomber; 04-17-2012, 10:28 PM.Comment
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Here's a few things it did in my attempts to refire the first night.
It started and ran for about 2 seconds and then died. Awhile again no starting, it coughed and ran for a second but sounded on 1 cylinder and died. No start after that since.Comment
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I think if you put a tester on the "signal" wires to the coil and then try to start it , you can see if its getting signal or spark from the module. That would tell you if its the coil or the module.
With that being said.......I really , really love my new ignition system. It got rid of even more wires, gives it a slight hop up ( which would be even more on your bike since you are currently dual fire). And its alot simpler/cleaner. You can get the same system except with a single coil for around $250 ...I think.
I run the Dynatek 2000i.Comment
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Yeah I would put a multimeter on it . and if the reading changes as the engine spins , I would assume you have spark to the coil. I would think anyway. As far as what it would read I have no idea . but if it changes then you know something is traveling thru the wire.Comment
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Those riser thing..... really great.. Need to find my old riser then....Comment
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After finding a melted and failed cam sensor, I decided that it's time to replace the whole ignition system. Chatting with Salty a little bit, I decided to run what he's got, the Dynatek 2ki system with the mini "Twin Fire" coil. It's a single fire unit which should get me going right.
Ewwwww.
But on another note, a buddy gave me some risers that I put on the other day. They looks pretty slick I must say!
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Those risers are sweet dude!Comment
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Got my girl back together on Saturday/Sunday and took it for a little spin out near an abandoned air strip in south Brooklyn.
Going to do some minor tweaks here and there and get the front brake back on, do a little painting on the tank but leaving it mostly raw still. Installed the Dynatek 2ki and this baby purrs like a ferocious lion.
This camera kind sucks, damn iphone. Oh well. I'll take some more when the little tweaks are done, but I'm loving this bike.Comment
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