ironhead performance impossible?

[Guest]

I have never heard this and i was just about to order a ultima single fire unit for mine. Whats the deal with ironheads not responding well to singlefire ignitions?

I just put an ultima single fire ignition on my ironhead, and the thing has never run better. I think if there's something wrong on other peoples bikes, its because of something they didn't do right

[Guest]

Shave and balance the flywheels.

Duel plug it so you can run higher compression. Domed pistons hate compression.

Run an S&S if you start doing lots of head work or bigger cams. The slide and butterfly restrict a lot of flow.

[KustomJeff]

What a great thread. I don't have anything to add, it's all been covered pretty well, but It still does my old heart good to see all this love for the old Ironheads

[Hendrixbilt]

Excellent info! Exactly why I came here to ask questions. Had not thought about the transmission. Definitely has OEM gears, but don't know the shape. Still haven't rode it. We just got the fabrication done. Powder coat is almost done. This is going to be a bar hopper from hell! Not very much hwy riding if any. I have a 21 front and a 48 rear. This should give me a good low to mid range. My friend runs a 19/52 and sounds like he's spinning 7k rpm at 55 mph. Don't want that.

I definitely want to start with some mild head work, but not to mild. I want to match the cams with the head work. I already have the updated charging system with a good battery. The jury is still out on the Dual fire verses single fire. We installed 2 single fires in my friends IH, and it ran great until it got hot. Then it would start missing. Let it cool down and then it would run fine. We talked to a local bike shop owner and he said he's been replacing a lot of single fires because of this trouble. I have always had good luck with singles fires myself.

What is the most radical cams I could use without any machine work on the cases? Something that can be installed and shimmed by me. What kind of head work would be required to match those cams? I've seen Zippers performance specs and set ups on everything except Ironheads. As many Ironheads that are still out there, It sounds like a good business opportunity for someone.

Thanks again,
Bill

[24Cycles]

LOL

Ironhead is not a good business oppurtunity lol. The parts can be but building one is like playing Russian roullette with a fully loaded revolver lol. Just playing but if you dont know your way around a Ironhead motor your asking for a huge headache.

It sounds to me like a grounding problem or a charging problem is plugueing those guys with single fire ignitions going to your local shop. Not saying the shop is doing it but sometimes its easy money to just swap a unit out. Money made on a part and money made on a install.
It could also be a old ignition thats been runnig for past 20 plus years and electronic do wear out. Most times you know your ignition is crap when it just doesnt spark anymore. Like I posted most times ignitions cut out is due to charging or battery. That could simply be the battery cable or another wire or connection is loose.

Best yet if your building a bar hopper most times those are the most abused motor. They get hammered because your drunk and showing off so making sure it is solid is important. I can also say that unless you have opened the motor yourself there is no way of knowing if the trans is OEM or not.
I have had guys long ago tell me that they have a stock motor its never been opened please order parts for a clutch or what not for me and I get the phone call of a frantic guy saying the clutch parts you ordered or the that or this you ordered me is wrong why wont it fit.
This is why I ask guys 20 questions well talking with them on the phone or in person. I am seeing just how much they really know about their motor or Ironheads/Sportsters in general.
If I feel they havent really opened her up or their knowlege of the motors in general is not spot on I require that I get a visual for myself.
Nothing is a bigger bummer then a guy coming to me last minute for goodness I have to special order in. Then getting a call on a friday at 12pm saying the part is wrong and I am suppose to leave in the morning how can you help me. It hurts my heart seeing a 6'5" 250 lb bearded biker sobbing because his Ironhead is not going to make the run.

A few things that would be helpful to answer your questions
1. Pictures of your motor and project.
2. What is it you want the bike to do. A bar hopper to me is such a wide open statement.
3. If I am guessing it sounds like you want a rocket ship because you keep going to ported head.
Expect to open your wallet because you need to make sure everything from the bottom to the top is rock solid.
4. Ironhead cams do not need shims

[24Cycles]

Is the bike in question the Blue tanked one in your pictures?

[Hendrixbilt]

LOL

Ironhead is not a good business oppurtunity lol. The parts can be but building one is like playing Russian roullette with a fully loaded revolver lol. Just playing but if you dont know your way around a Ironhead motor your asking for a huge headache.

It sounds to me like a grounding problem or a charging problem is plugueing those guys with single fire ignitions going to your local shop. Not saying the shop is doing it but sometimes its easy money to just swap a unit out. Money made on a part and money made on a install.
It could also be a old ignition thats been runnig for past 20 plus years and electronic do wear out. Most times you know your ignition is crap when it just doesnt spark anymore. Like I posted most times ignitions cut out is due to charging or battery. That could simply be the battery cable or another wire or connection is loose.

Best yet if your building a bar hopper most times those are the most abused motor. They get hammered because your drunk and showing off so making sure it is solid is important. I can also say that unless you have opened the motor yourself there is no way of knowing if the trans is OEM or not.
I have had guys long ago tell me that they have a stock motor its never been opened please order parts for a clutch or what not for me and I get the phone call of a frantic guy saying the clutch parts you ordered or the that or this you ordered me is wrong why wont it fit.
This is why I ask guys 20 questions well talking with them on the phone or in person. I am seeing just how much they really know about their motor or Ironheads/Sportsters in general.
If I feel they havent really opened her up or their knowlege of the motors in general is not spot on I require that I get a visual for myself.
Nothing is a bigger bummer then a guy coming to me last minute for goodness I have to special order in. Then getting a call on a friday at 12pm saying the part is wrong and I am suppose to leave in the morning how can you help me. It hurts my heart seeing a 6'5" 250 lb bearded biker sobbing because his Ironhead is not going to make the run.

A few things that would be helpful to answer your questions
1. Pictures of your motor and project.
2. What is it you want the bike to do. A bar hopper to me is such a wide open statement.
3. If I am guessing it sounds like you want a rocket ship because you keep going to ported head.
Expect to open your wallet because you need to make sure everything from the bottom to the top is rock solid.
4. Ironhead cams do not need shims

LOL...You got to the bottom of it. Ok...here is the deal. A good friend of mine started building a Buell chop at the same time I started this one. Him and everyone else started ragging on me every time we get together....especially if we're drinking. I've got one friend that has a 06 night train that will pull the front wheel thru 3rd. I don't expect to beat him. The 74 was a deal I couldn't pass up. I have always started out to build on a budget, but wind up spending some cake on them after I fall in love with them. This one is no exception. It is starting to get to me when they rag on me about this Ironhead. I don't need to beat'em, just want to surprise the "ney sayers". Don't want to have to work on it all the time, but not afraid of a carb or valve adjustment on occasion . I want this 74 to have as much reliable horse power as possible. If that makes since for an Ironhead. I'll spend the money, but only want to spend it once. Want to start with a good set up.

Yes, to answer your question, it is the 74 that is just in fabrication stage. It has a 19 on the front, but I have a 21 going on it. If you look in my pics there are two. The blue 74 with apes is a suicide shift we built for a good friend of mine.

[Guest]

.040 pistons ,,,,,,, ,, oversize,,1,15/16 intake valves,,,1,3/4 exhaust valves, s/s super carb,s/s python pipes,,,unknown size veglia cams,,took a 77 sportster to 140mph,,,this was 1980,,31 years ago ,,musta been overstock compression on pistons,,,, reliable cept the electric starter shit would crap out, on a regular basis,,was my ride for 10 years

[ChoppyGee]

We're not sure whats done to it but this is my buddy's old mans and it beat everything on the 1/8th except for a 6 second snowmobile

[24Cycles]

You mentioned the words reliable and work on it.
You my friend own a Ironhead and if you want reliable and not to work on it then best thing is to build it run it down the road well runnig video then moth balling it.
The more preformance the more you will be spinnig wrenches if you want to keep her going. If you want reliable and not to work on it then you may want to sell that steed and pick up a 2003 or newer Sporty and start with that.
I can tell you without paying someone to do the work your going to be into the motor just in parts a minimum of 1500 on the cheap(used stuff) and that is not counting the labor to do the work, the research or the machinework..
When going the used route for parts reliabilty drops.
A simple Cams, Pistons, Carb, ignitionand exhaust combo will tilt the pocket book at 1100.00 in parts alone. I just redid the valves, guides and seats no porting on a set of heads and the cost was about 200 a head. kick in flowing them and it gets expensive.
Some guys money isn a thing. You have to look at do you want it to growel or bark. To growel your probable looking at 1100 to 1600 if your doing the work to growel. To make it bark 3000 plus and that is resourceful.

[24Cycles]

Forgot one big factor. If your a skinny light fucker it is a advantage lol

[Guest]

Excellent info! Exactly why I came here to ask questions. Had not thought about the transmission. Definitely has OEM gears, but don't know the shape. Still haven't rode it. We just got the fabrication done. Powder coat is almost done. This is going to be a bar hopper from hell! Not very much hwy riding if any. I have a 21 front and a 48 rear. This should give me a good low to mid range. My friend runs a 19/52 and sounds like he's spinning 7k rpm at 55 mph. Don't want that.

I definitely want to start with some mild head work, but not to mild. I want to match the cams with the head work. I already have the updated charging system with a good battery. The jury is still out on the Dual fire verses single fire. We installed 2 single fires in my friends IH, and it ran great until it got hot. Then it would start missing. Let it cool down and then it would run fine. We talked to a local bike shop owner and he said he's been replacing a lot of single fires because of this trouble. I have always had good luck with singles fires myself.

What is the most radical cams I could use without any machine work on the cases? Something that can be installed and shimmed by me. What kind of head work would be required to match those cams? I've seen Zippers performance specs and set ups on everything except Ironheads. As many Ironheads that are still out there, It sounds like a good business opportunity for someone.

Thanks again,
Bill

You guys must be running the wrong ohm coils or something. I got the complete ultima kit with their single fire coil and wires, and I've been running it in 100* weather all over the place, and I don't treat my bike nicely. My single fire ultima system works flawlessly.

[Guest]

Always go single fire. Always.

[IronheadChris]

I have a single fire Ultima on my IH and its been awesome. People who say otherwise don't know what they're talking about.

-Chris

[fehd]

I have a 74 also, an XLCH. You CAN make an ironhead fast AND reliable. It takes abit of dough, but when done you will have a reliable, fast bike that is in my opinion cooler then any evo. My recipe is a balanced lower end with JIMS shafts, S&S rods and Wiseco 10-1 pistons. The PO had Jerry Branch port the heads and install his big valves with iron guides and hardened seats. I'm runnin Andrews R5 cams, the only head setup you need with these are to install the Andrews lower collars, they will give you .060 more spring travel. My Baisley roller tipped rockers are on the way and I'm runnin a Super E with a home made stainless 2-1. 32 inch primaries into a reverse cone megaphone with stainless wool baffling. I havent run it with the Super E yet, but with the R5's and a CV from a BT, the thing RIPPED. The heads will be dual plugged this winter and the single fire ignition put in.. I have it down to about 420 lbs now, should have NO problem showin the tail light to many.