OH and I'm not running a 15A breaker to the coil, I guess if it doesn't exceed 30A it's ok? If you wanna be on the safe side it's probably not a bad idea, you could always just bypass it if it keeps popping the breaker.
I rewired my 89 sporty. The lights work but it does not start. I followed the diagram and it won't start now. I used these little guys as a start and kill switch http://www.jpcycles.com/product/3700070.
I think I did something wrong but can't figure it out. If I touch the wire from the starter button th battery it turns over and starts but if once everything is connected nothing....
The lights still work. No power loss. New Battery, checked the Stator.
There is no oil pressure light, neutral, turn signals or horn. I kept the breakers but replaced them.
The last pic I am a little unsure.
Last edited by BocaJRS; 09-22-2013 at 3:43 PM. Reason: Pictures
Thanks. Now do I wire a wire straight to that from the copper pole on breaker or the other one from the main breaker? Or straight from the battery?
Last edited by BocaJRS; 09-22-2013 at 3:54 PM.
rewiring an 06 rubbermount sportster ive got it all back together and it sparks for the first ten seconds of starting the bike then the spark gives out. Does it sound like the security system is armed? If anyone can help that would be great.
So I rewired my bike with minimal wiring, but now I'm wondering how I should route the wiring to the headlight, ignition switch, voes, and coil? I just zip tied it under the top tube with some wiring loom, but it looks kinda dumb. Has anybody routed wiring through their top tube?
just need a quick verification, the voltage regulator has 3 wires 2 of which are part of a plug that traces back into the primary (stator) and the 3rd is much longer and has a female spade connector, is this lone wire a ground??
I think one is to ground (engine case) and the other hot to the battery, usually off the starter stud.
Can I use this as a guide for a efi to carb conversion using a thunder heart as the ignition modue?
I'm trying to eliminate dummy lights, speedo, and signals on my 98 1200. I ditched the stock handle bar controls, added got one of those marine switches with the solenoid and everything so that I don't need a push button, ditched the dummy lights and the speedo. I originally wanted to keep my signals and was just going to put in my own switches and new smaller lights but after I did everything and the bike didn't start I decided to ditch the signals all together for now and worry about them later if I decide I want them. Anyway, during the wiring process, because I don't know a ton about bike wiring, I decided to test it before I finished it up. I turned the key it started, ran for a minute, then died. At the time I didn't have a throttle hooked up so I attributed its quick death to that and kept on wiring. Finished up went to start and it didn't start. Now I've pulled everything back and between what I see on my bike and the wiring diagram I'm very lost.
Things that confuse me:
-I have a green wire coming from the main harness that looks like it was once connected to a white/black wire. Pretty sure the green comes from the starter relay and the white/black goes into the main harness and I haven't been able to trace where it goes but it does look like it was once soldered to the green wire.
-There's a second white/black wire coming form the main harness, on the diagram the white wire connects to the solenoid that's only on CA models, I don't think I have a CA model considering I'm in MA. This second white/black wire splits of a couple times and I know it's supposed to connect to my coils.
-Essentially the amount of white/black wires is whats stumping me, along with the fact I started the bike once mid process, then somewhere in connecting new switches etc, I blew the ignition and accessory fuses and it won't start.
I know these answers are all over chopcult so if someone has link that answers this stuff that'd be great, if not some advice would be great. Should I just pull the whole harness out and start from scratch? I don't know what to do. Teaching myself seems only take me so far. I need some guidence.
I know this is an old thread and might not get any answers but figured I'd try. I am completely redoing my wire harness on my 95 sporty based off of the hand drawn one, if I eliminate my VOES and cap the vacuum line, will I have performance problems under hard acceleration? Will this affect starting/idle at all?
Also just noticed on the stock wiring diagram one of the wires from the ign coil goes to the tachometer, If I run my setup according to Billdozer's than my coil will only have the main power and cam sensor going to it... will this cause issues?
Last edited by garcia2389; 02-22-2015 at 7:48 PM.
i know this is an older post but what the hell. i am currently balls deep in my first custom build. 97 XLH1200c in a rigid frame, springer front end. wasnt sure if the hand drawn would work for my 97? and if not any leads on a link that has a super simple stripped down wiring diagram would be greatly appreciated!
i know this is an old post but what the hell, wanting to do this on my 97 xl1200c. the hand drawn should work correct? any tips are greatly appreciated as this is my first build
One thing to remember, if you're ditching your control pods but keeping your front brake you'll have to do some extra work to add a switch in if you want the tail light to light up when you pull your brake lever
Okay so I'm a noob here but wanted tie say this k's for the information for sure took me about 7 hours give or take all went well. Although I did leave the MAP sensor in on my 99 sportster 1200S.
Happy to have all the wires and mess gone for good anyway the diagram was solid and that's what I went with.