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  1. #41
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    without really knowing what youve done id say locate your grey and your white wires they need to be connected, what the kill switch does is cut the juice to your coil via the white wire.

    coils- not typically you can bench test a coil by having the hot wire attached and tapping a hot wire against the other post post, and watch for spark at the plug. **read up on this ive done it but it was about a year ago and im a little fuzzy on how i did it.

    heres something i made up-
    http://www.choppercreeps.blogspot.co...ed-wiring.html
    Last edited by tattoo2303; 11-04-2011 at 7:08 AM.

  2. #42
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    Ok what ive done Is eliminate any wire possible beside head light, rear tail/brake, and ign. I do not have a gray or white wire to spare lol. I'm thinking if there is a way to tap in to power from my ign breaker to my w/bk coil wire..ya or nay? Wire a kill switch in between you know.
    And as far as the bench test goes, my manual even suggests that and I tried it but got no spark still. But I can't understand how my coil can take a shit by sitting.

  3. #43
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    i think i wired my white/black to a hot wire in my key ignition..like accessory maybe..anyways this works powering and killing power to the coil..ho0pe this helps??

  4. #44
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    ^^bingo

    what color are the 2 wires going to your coil? and were do they come from? your coil system works like this- one wire ONLY comes from your control module (pink in my case- and on the diagram) that is what is intermitent power controlled by your ignition basically switching on/off over and over. the other wire (white in the diagram) is a constant on when your bike is turned on.

    if you look at the diagram the white lead goes from the key switch to a breaker, a grey wire comes out of the breaker and goes to where the kill switch used to be in the diagram i have it just connected to the white wire by a black bar

    there is also a white wire from your control module, if you did away with all that stuff - you still need to get power to that wire some how.

    you dont need to wire in a kill switch, just run a hot lead from your mean of turning on the bike to the white wire when you turn the bike off itll kill it by taking the power away from the coil
    Last edited by tattoo2303; 11-04-2011 at 11:16 AM.

  5. #45
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    We must have conflicting modules because both my coil wires come out of my module and I don't have a solid white wire. Which wire provides power to the coil pink or w/bk?

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvilEvo View Post
    We must have conflicting modules because both my coil wires come out of my module and I don't have a solid white wire. Which wire provides power to the coil pink or w/bk?
    id guess the w/bk, chances are before you cut up your system you had 2 wires going to that post on your coil, one would have come direct from your control module the other would have ran all over the bike to tie into your kill switch. id run a lead from your ignition switch to the w/bk wire and see what happens

  7. #47
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    I'm already on it, I just got home with a switch. I'll post my findings. Thanks hombre.

  8. #48
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    Default minimum wiring for a 2005 sportster

    building a rigid with a 2005 sportster motor. can this thing be wired without all the crap? just want the motor to run, the rest is easy!!!

  9. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by rccycle View Post
    building a rigid with a 2005 sportster motor. can this thing be wired without all the crap? just want the motor to run, the rest is easy!!!
    what crap specifically? check this its pretty bare- still uses the 3 stock circuit breakers and a marine ignition switch

    http://www.choppercreeps.blogspot.co...ed-wiring.html

    you basically can break your wiring down to 3 groups
    -lights
    -starting/running
    -charging

  10. #50
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    Damn man now I'm really scratching my head. I've got It all hooked up, kill switch and alp and still no spark. Did I fry the coil, what am i missing. Fuck me.

  11. #51
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    Default re wire

    Hi all,
    I'm building a hardtail bike with a 1200S as a donor.
    Is the electricity from a 2002 ( in this topic) the same as mine (1999 model)?
    i need spark, lights ,stoplight, may speedometer and the dashlights: N oil,and high/low beam.
    I read that you run stock ignition, is that the stock from the S ,or do i have to change some parts?
    Do you still use the dual sparkplugs?
    Last edited by Petesgarage; 12-28-2011 at 1:49 AM.

  12. #52
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    I'm useing this route on my 99 1200 s. it appears to be the same wireing. I'm not finished yet, as I'm waiting on my breakers to come in. Billdozer is running all 4 plugs. just go by his diagram and you should be fine.

  13. #53
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    Default bank angle sensor

    do you guys have also a bank angle sensor? when the bike falls down the engine stops running.
    If you have ,do you still use it or...?
    if i do a completely new wiring ,do i need to do something special for the BAS and for the kill switch that is normally on the handlebar don't use one anymore.
    Last edited by Petesgarage; 01-14-2012 at 11:04 AM.

  14. #54
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    Ditch it. Its wired into the kill switch. Just kills spark to coil if it falls beyond a certain angle. Mine was located on the side of the battery box. No need for it.

  15. #55
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    i'm pulling all new wires ,so that will be fine, thx.
    what is the purpose of the MAP sensor ?
    do you have power loss if you don't use it or?

  16. #56
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    Is your bike EFI? if so you may want to look at REV's thread . http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15746

    I believe the map sensor is for the EFI. I didnt have one. I did keep the VOES , which some folks dont .

  17. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saltytonk View Post
    Is your bike EFI? if so you may want to look at REV's thread . http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15746

    I believe the map sensor is for the EFI. I didnt have one. I did keep the VOES , which some folks dont .

    My bike is 1999 and has a cv carb ,so i don't think the MAP sensor does a great thing to it.
    The VOES is the system in the petcock and stuff? i have another tank and petcock so...

  18. #58
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    Default This is likely a stupid question...

    but I find it hard to believe it could be that easy.

    I'm trying to cut down the wires and get rid of some shit on my '92 XLH. I've pulled off the dummy lights, speedo and tach. I'm also going to be changing out the headlight so I need to get rid of the harnesses within the bucket. Once I get rid of the wires I KNOW I won't need, is it as simple as cutting off the wires from the harnesses and then slicing the same colors together?

    I've been looking at the schematic, and the bike, and it seems as though that's the case, but before I go and start clipping I'd like to know.

    There are some strange splices in there from PO's, like the blinker relay they wired in because, I assume, the stock one stopped working.

    I'm just having a hard time imagining that it could be as simple as splicing the same colors together.

    Thanks!

  19. #59
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    Well Lance and I started just like what your talking about Mike. We took the dummy lights off first and then started hacking crap apart. We would start it after each time we cut a wire to see if she would run. And she did for awhile but........... We blew some fuses . I basically printed out Billdozers hand drawn diagram and and figured out which wires were essential and sat down in front of the bike for HOURS until I got it back together. It really isnt hard once you wrap your mind around the basics. It just took me awhile. But now if something goes wrong electrically I will be able to fix it pretty quickly. Be patient and study. You'll be fine.

  20. #60
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    Yeah the VOES is the thing hooked up to the carb and tank via vacuum hoses. I'm running a tank and petcock without the vacuum lines ......but I kept it hooked up to the carb.

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