ChopCult Project: Halwade's Evo-Powered SpartanKiller

[Courage]

Wow... looks great. The designs of those controls are nice and clean.

Quick questions (and maybe it is the view):
Does the brake rod hang lower than the frame? and if so have you tipped the bike to the right to check the clearance? WIll it have a chance to hit before the peg?

I would be concerned with a sweeping right hand turn where I got a little low and scrape pavement. If that joint is lower than the frame and the first thing to hit, it could be an interesting ride as the brake locks up.

[Guest]

Yes, the brake rod lever is lower than the frame tube. Not ideal, but not the first forwards I've seen w/ this setup. I'm going to take my chances over speed bumps, but lean angles are no problem. Pipes will be nearly as low or slightly lower, so I'll have a bash guard of sorts to keep me safe.

[Flatheadsoup]

Of all the cool stuff you've done, JMO, this aint working with the lines and flow of your ride. Just saying.

[jrhamilton80]

Believe me, I totally get that I'm not supposed to like your bike, but...

From my vantage point, I don't see why you can't just raise the whole operation up an inch or two... make some threaded bungs that sit on top of the frame rail & mount the master to that... at least that's what I did on my Sportster.

But, in the end, do what you want, not what some dudes on the internet say.

[LDNCLR]

why not ditch the brick of a MC and use one of these?



i think I paid $10.00 for the last one I bought off of ebay. (late model CBR)

[Zooligan]

With a disc brake I'd definitely be using the tiny Nissin.

[Guest]

Man, those forwards look sweet!!!

[Guest]

Of all the cool stuff you've done, JMO, this aint working with the lines and flow of your ride. Just saying.

Sometimes lines and flow must take a back seat to ergonomics and function. I've sat on the bike, so i know these admittedly simple-looking controls are where they need to be, and that they're doing what they need to do Also, these are the foot controls I'm capable of making, and with tons of help to boot.

Instead of just saying, please offer a suggestion for improvement. I'm all ears...

[Guest]

why not ditch the brick of a MC and use one of these?



i think I paid $10.00 for the last one I bought off of ebay. (late model CBR)

I paid $25 for the PM billet master cylinder, so I'm happy with the product and the price. Also, w/ so much polished alloy on the bike (motor, tranny, primary plates, triple trees, fork sliders, etc.), I don't think the master cylinder bucks styling or spec in an egregiously offensive way.

[jrhamilton80]

Hey McGoo, let me begin by saying that I love those foot controls (as I think most of the guys around here do). They are simple, effective, & not large & overdone. My concerns for form & function both stem from the placement to the master cylinder & the linkage to the brake lever. Why can't you move that master cylinder up to tuck in between the cam cover & the transmission. That would not only keep it from hanging down below the frame rail (at least not as much), but it would also bring the angle of that actuating rod up to match the frame rail. Does that make sense?

Then again, maybe I'm missing something & this suggestion is not practical or feasible. Good luck, chop on.

[Zooligan]

FWIW, I totally dig the foot control design. This was exactly the kind of info I was looking for in my PM to you after the foot controls Focus Feature the other week.

[AfterHours]

Suggestions for improvement - raise that mc so you don't get it knocked off. Frames scrape from time to time as it is, and a rough road, tall speed bumps (like in Mexico), riding into a gas station with a steep drive (oh, yes) or pushing your bike into a truck with a steep ramp will catch it.

Is both the inner & outer section of the pivot (of the controls) stainless? Don't use like-metals in a friction situation, they have a tenency to bind and stainless is some of the worst. I'm sure you're putting in a grease zirk, I just didn't see it. IF you are running like metals on both halves and relying on grease you can cut o-ring grooves or seal grooves to hold the grease in place.

I havn't been following this thread so if this is redundant, I apologize.

[Flatheadsoup]

Sometimes lines and flow must take a back seat to ergonomics and function. I've sat on the bike, so i know these admittedly simple-looking controls are where they need to be, and that they're doing what they need to do Also, these are the foot controls I'm capable of making, and with tons of help to boot.

Instead of just saying, please offer a suggestion for improvement. I'm all ears...

Kool, I wouldn't change the controls they look great, it's just the location of the MC. Move the MC up (no matter which one you use) and put a step in the rod, make it as close to the foot control as possible.

[Guest]

I'm picking up what you guys are throwing down... Tonight an idea for raising the MC and shortening the lower brake rod acuation arm came to me. gonna dick with it tomorrow.

Gabe, zirks will be installed on both pivot sleeves. Remember, neither pivot sleeve moves more than 10 degrees on its inner axis. I don't think galling or seizing will be a problem, even due to like materials.

Re: MC hanging down; it's not hanging down any further than many pipes I've seen, but I hear you brother...

[Zooligan]

I'm picking up what you guys are throwing down... Tonight an idea for raising the MC and shortening the lower brake rod acuation arm came to me. gonna dick with it tomorrow.

Gabe, zirks will be installed on both pivot sleeves. Remember, neither pivot sleeve moves more than 10 degrees on its inner axis. I don't think galling or seizing will be a problem, even due to like materials.

Re: MC hanging down; it's not hanging down any further than many pipes I've seen, but I hear you brother...

Break a pipe, your bike get's louder. Break your m/c, your bike doesn't stop when you need it to. Tiny little differences...