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  1. #1
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    Default FUCK: Fucking ironhead clutch!!!!!!!

    OK, I have tried letter for letter what the manual says (literally about 25 times). I have tried all of the adjusting how-tos I can find on the internet, including here, Jockey and xlforums - some include the two turns in, some don't. NOTHING WORKS! I just had it in the shop where they put in a whole new clutch, all new spacers etc. When I got it back from them it still dragged and wanted to creep with the clutch lever all the way pulled.

    Like I said I have tried the HD manual version which says the lever will be adjusted (or may need minor adjustment) when done with the adjuster screw. I have tried loosening the cable up and leaving it loose until I've done the adjustment (1/4-1/2 turn from contact). Neither work. Following the manual gives the poorest result.

    The closest I can get is literally leaving the adjuster screw in 1 3/4 turns clockwise.

    The results so far are:

    1. Creeping with clutch pulled, dies as it should when clutch lever is released. or
    2. Creeping with clutch pulled, idles in place when lever is released. or
    3. Does not creep with clutch pulled, idles in place when lever is released.

    What the FUCK!

    So now I have tried, the shop has tried and my buddy who rides an Ironhead daily and is a mechanic has tried.

    BTW it's a '73.
    Last edited by KIRK; 04-24-2011 at 5:40 PM.

  2. #2
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    Good luck, it took me several trips to my local Indie to get my 1973 Ironhead clutch adjusted properly. Once it was dialed, I didn't touch it!!!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ridemore16 View Post
    Good luck, it took me several trips to my local Indie to get my 1973 Ironhead clutch adjusted properly. Once it was dialed, I didn't touch it!!!
    Any idea what they did?

  4. #4
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    well i put the tamer 2 in mine it suppose to help that and its simple to put in and its only like 30 bucks i havent wired my bike yet tho to try it though

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harle...item33672636e1

    http://www.jpcycles.com/product/620-686
    Last edited by crazycracker; 04-24-2011 at 6:20 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default clutch

    what are you running for tranny fluid?? It sounds like its not releasing all the way to be truthful, Some times the clutch plates get hung up on the hub an wont release all the way which will cause a problem, Back your cable adjuster off till there is play at the lever,loosen up the lock nut, turn the adjuster in till it touchs, then back it off a 1/4 turn or so, then take all the freeplay out of the cable till the lever just touchs the stop an try that,, If your running to heavy a fluid, an its cold, they will drag, That might be?? I have something here someplace will see if i can find it, oh an dont get the tammer its junk, The tammer 2 works,

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimbo View Post
    what are you running for tranny fluid?? It sounds like its not releasing all the way to be truthful, Some times the clutch plates get hung up on the hub an wont release all the way which will cause a problem, Back your cable adjuster off till there is play at the lever,loosen up the lock nut, turn the adjuster in till it touchs, then back it off a 1/4 turn or so, then take all the freeplay out of the cable till the lever just touchs the stop an try that,, If your running to heavy a fluid, an its cold, they will drag, That might be?? I have something here someplace will see if i can find it, oh an dont get the tammer its junk, The tammer 2 works,
    I have tried exactly that procedure and it jumps the worst with the clutch pulled. It just full-on drives forward and you have to brake fully and shut the bike off to stop it.

    I don't know what fluid they used.

  7. #7
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    Quick thought on primary fluid...

    First time I changed the fluids in my ironhead, I used regular auto 20/50 in my primary, because the manual said to. I didn't realize that m/c oil doesn't have friction multipliers and other strange additives, but automobile oils ones do. My clutch went from perfectly adjusted to slippery as hell, and creeping up on me with the lever all the way in. I drained it and put in some rev-tech sportster specific primary stuff my local indy had. 28 oz worth. It has worked perfectly ever since.

    Good luck, it will hopefully be something simple in the end.

  8. #8
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    Man troubles left and right. They are a pain in the ass. If you can try adjusting it when its warmed up. Mine likes to creep when cold. Have to change the fluid out this week. Most reads swear by using the hd trans fluid. So I am going to give it a shot. maybe you have a bent arm that the cable attaches to so you can't adjust it right. Could always pull the cover off and take a peak what it is doing with the clutch engaged.?? Hope you get it figured out.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by KIRK View Post
    Any idea what they did?
    I ended up changing clutch plates and getting a new cable. The guys said it was a bitch to dial in. Maybe try the fluid approach that these guys recommend.

  10. #10
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    Damn you...I caught your contagious clutch disease! I went out to ride this morning and my clutch is wacky. Just got back from the stealership with the "Sport Trans Fluid" ($5.92/quart). I'll let you know how it goes.

  11. #11
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    +1 on the sportster primary fluid costs way too fucking much but it does help. Mine likes to creep a little when shes cold but once she warms up she does fine.

  12. #12
    xllance
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    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Make sure the spring tension is adjusted right. The 6 studs on the clutch pack have spacers and 71 and later clutches are supposed to have 11/32 in. gap from the outher surface of the outer drive plate. If the nuts on these studs are tightened all the way down, the clutch will never release.

    Page 4-6 in the service manual.

    Ask if the shop that put in your new clutch did this. It's easy to overlook.

  13. #13
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    make sure the spring pressure is adjusted right and consistant through all springs, make sure the basket is allowing the plates free movement, make sure the steel plates are not warped. and that the clutch plates were pre soaked if new, that shit helps alot. good luck with it. ironheads are touchy but they are machines, and therefore a good result is attainable , just dont let it frustrate you.

  14. #14
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    Default Quick Question

    What kind of clutches are in you IH? Some aftermarkets actually recommend ATF fluid. I started using it with my Barnett clutches and all the problems you mentioned disappeared. Some guys are dead set against ATF, but a lot of older guys have been using it for years with no problems. People can bitch all they want, but what works---works! I rode all last summer with ATF, had everything apart this winter, and noticed no ill effects. My 74 shifts like a champ and no longer pulls with the clutch lever applied.

  15. #15
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    Fuck all that, I would trade it for a 2009 or newer thruxton

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by monkeyoflove View Post
    Fuck all that, I would trade it for a 2009 or newer thruxton
    Fuckin' A!!!!!!!

  17. #17
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    what dose the basket look like? If the plates wear into the basket the clutch will not disengage properly. If that's the case you can carefully file the basket down evenly (thats if you dont wanna spring for a new basket)

  18. #18
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    also if the new clutch in a screaming eagle then run ATF fluid.

  19. #19
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    Kirk, don't you have that MPD primary on your bike?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tito View Post
    Kirk, don't you have that MPD primary on your bike?
    I had to pull it off. It was for the earlier motor and kept the arm from moving. Bummer, it looked SO good.

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