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  1. #1
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    Default Double check my wiring diagram please

    Hey guys. I got my ironhead started but it blew the 15 amp fuse between battery positive and the ignition switch. Can y’all look over my wiring diagram? The switch is a momentary switch from lowbrow so I don’t have a start button. Thanks!
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    It looks good, nice and simple. Have you used the regulator before and just rewiring the bike in its latest chopper form?
    How are the grounds? No wires or connections chafed or touching ground or touching each other? Regulator grounded? What is the state of charge for your battery? Did you check running at idle voltage,then again at about 2,500 RPM? What are your readings?
    Did you check the regulator with your ohmmeter? Disconnect wires; put your test leads on the two wires, note reading ; then reverse test leads...what did you get - continuity one way and no continuity the other?
    Some good reading here (did you get this link previously?):

    IronMick’s Complete Guide to Troubleshooting Ironhead Electrical Problems
    http://odenmotorshop.com/2013/12/iro...ical-problems/

    and maybe somethin' here from 33 comments(including another wiring diagram in post #8):
    2014 Thread: 1980 Ironhead charging system - help me figure this fucking problem out.
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38107

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    Fifteen amp may not be big enough for a main fuse if you are pulling solenoid current through the ignition switch without a start relay. Try twenty amp, that should do it. It might take thirty.
    You would be much better off with circuit breakers than fuses. Separating the ignition and lighting circuits on individual breakers per HD practice has advantages, you might want to rethink your wiring with that in mind.
    Nothing wrong with your diagram as drawn, it will work, not ideal but simple.

    Jim

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottiemcdoogle View Post
    Hey guys. I got my ironhead started but it blew the 15 amp fuse between battery positive and the ignition switch. Can y’all look over my wiring diagram? The switch is a momentary switch from lowbrow so I don’t have a start button. Thanks!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    go up to a 30 amp fuse and let me know what happens

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    Quote Originally Posted by JBinNC View Post
    Fifteen amp may not be big enough for a main fuse if you are pulling solenoid current through the ignition switch without a start relay. Try twenty amp, that should do it. It might take thirty.
    You would be much better off with circuit breakers than fuses. Separating the ignition and lighting circuits on individual breakers per HD practice has advantages, you might want to rethink your wiring with that in mind.
    Nothing wrong with your diagram as drawn, it will work, not ideal but simple.

    Jim
    I agree but to play devils advocate you have to get creative as far as where you can mount everything and still be hidden

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    It looks good, nice and simple. Have you used the regulator before and just rewiring the bike in its latest chopper form?
    How are the grounds? No wires or connections chafed or touching ground or touching each other? Regulator grounded? What is the state of charge for your battery? Did you check running at idle voltage,then again at about 2,500 RPM? What are your readings?
    Did you check the regulator with your ohmmeter? Disconnect wires; put your test leads on the two wires, note reading ; then reverse test leads...what did you get - continuity one way and no continuity the other?
    Some good reading here (did you get this link previously?):

    IronMick’s Complete Guide to Troubleshooting Ironhead Electrical Problems
    http://odenmotorshop.com/2013/12/iro...ical-problems/

    and maybe somethin' here from 33 comments(including another wiring diagram in post #8):
    2014 Thread: 1980 Ironhead charging system - help me figure this fucking problem out.
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38107
    Yeah I only rode the bike a couple times before I tore it down, but it seemed to be working fine then. I rode about 60 miles total, and with about 3 weeks in between trips no problem.

    It’s all brand new wiring except for the bigger gauge wires grounding the battery and going from the starter solenoid to battery postitve, those got reused but they look fine.

    The only thing hooked up to the regulator is the A and F terminals coming from the regulator, so I guess it doesn’t have it’s own ground, should it?

    The battery is brand new and I always charge it first to make sure that’s not my issue. I check the voltage on the battery at idle but I’ve just recently found out that they don’t necessarily charge at idle so I’ll check again at a higher rpm. I’ll check the regulator as well, I wasn’t sure how to test that so thank you for that info. And I did make sure to polarize the generator before I started. I’ll also swap out the 15amp fuse for a 30. I could only find one source on how to wire it like this without a relay or circuit breaker and he said 15 should be fine. Thank you guys.

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    Did you see the new thread bpeak posted this morning;may be helpful for ya:

    Thread: Ironhead Chopper Wiring Diagram EXPLAINED
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52686

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottiemcdoogle View Post
    Hey guys. I got my ironhead started but it blew the 15 amp fuse between battery positive and the ignition switch.
    You say you got your bike started??? When and what were you doing when the fuse blew???

    I bet you have a shorted wire....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    You say you got your bike started??? When and what were you doing when the fuse blew???

    I bet you have a shorted wire....
    It was running for about 10 minutes, idle sounded good after it warmed up and I was able to push the choke in. I was ready to leave for a friends house and the bike just died. No lights or anything, battery tested at like 6 volts if I remember correctly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottiemcdoogle View Post
    It was running for about 10 minutes, idle sounded good after it warmed up and I was able to push the choke in. I was ready to leave for a friends house and the bike just died. No lights or anything, battery tested at like 6 volts if I remember correctly.
    I think you have a bad battery and over charging problem myself......

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    Idle for 10 minutes with the choke on? is it a bit lean at idle? I think it just got tired of waiting for ya...good thing its not one of those new self driving bikes - it woulda left ya at home!
    What were the results of your voltage and ohm meter tests?

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Did you see the new thread bpeak posted this morning;may be helpful for ya:

    Thread: Ironhead Chopper Wiring Diagram EXPLAINED
    http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=52686
    That is awesome! Thank you Trinortchopz and bpeak!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TriNortchopz View Post
    Idle for 10 minutes with the choke on? is it a bit lean at idle? I think it just got tired of waiting for ya...good thing its not one of those new self driving bikes - it woulda left ya at home!
    What were the results of your voltage and ohm meter tests?
    I tested it at a higher rpm and got 13.11. So I took the bike down the street and back and got 13.29 I think, so it is charging. I read somewhere that they don't charge well (or at all) when sitting at idle so maybe that was my issue. I also figured out the fuse blew because of a connection i had for the taillights had bumped into the sissybar and shorted out.

    Now I just need to tune the carb a little more because it dies with the choke off even when warmed up. And it seems to be running hot. My new exhaust pipes got super purple, more than I've ever seen. But I feel good! It's almost ridable.

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    Now I just need to tune the carb a little more because it dies with the choke off even when warmed up.
    Is your carb freshly stripped and dipped? That's typical yard sitter behavior usually due to varnished low speed jet tho it can also be due to an air leak.

    What carb and jets are you using? If the intake manifold has not been sealed recently it's wise to start with fresh seals and aircraft style clamps. Ensure you have a carb brace and that when you tighten that brace it puts no load on the carb/manifold assembly.

    I'd charge and load test the battery off the bike. Definitely don't idle the engine as it won't charge and overheats engines. If you have a fan or blower you can get around the heat issue for test runs, but I'd still charge the battery off the bike.
    Last edited by farmall; 01-06-2019 at 2:00 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by farmall View Post
    Is your carb freshly stripped and dipped? That's typical yard sitter behavior usually due to varnished low speed jet tho it can also be due to an air leak.

    What carb and jets are you using? If the intake manifold has not been sealed recently it's wise to start with fresh seals and aircraft style clamps. Ensure you have a carb brace and that when you tighten that brace it puts no load on the carb/manifold assembly.

    I'd charge and load test the battery off the bike. Definitely don't idle the engine as it won't charge and overheats engines. If you have a fan or blower you can get around the heat issue for test runs, but I'd still charge the battery off the bike.
    I opened it up but it was pretty clean so I didn't soak it in anything, just carb cleaner and a clean shop towel.

    It's a CV carb and it had 45/170 when I opened it up, I've heard with an ironhead its good to have bigger jets so I went 45/180. I wanted to try 46 but I didn't have a skinny enough screw driver. I also replaced the needle with the bigger one from CVPerformance that only came on the 88 CV carbs.

    The intake manifold is an adapter from killer motorcycle products that is jb welded onto the carb itself, although I don't have a support bracket for it but it feels pretty solid. I can go ahead and make one though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottiemcdoogle View Post
    The intake manifold is an adapter from killer motorcycle products that is jb welded onto the carb itself, although I don't have a support bracket for it but it feels pretty solid. I can go ahead and make one though.

    JB weld? Your bike is running VERY lean.... It sounds like you have a intake leak... Put a carb support on it... It doesn't matter if you think it's solid....

    Plus when you clean a carb you need to soak it...... If you don't it's just a waste of time...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tattooo View Post
    JB weld? Your bike is running VERY lean.... It sounds like you have a intake leak... Put a carb support on it... It doesn't matter if you think it's solid....

    Plus when you clean a carb you need to soak it...... If you don't it's just a waste of time...
    I know the jb weld sounds sketchy but it’s a very tight press fit and a very very thin layer of jb weld. I got that 45 jet out and it was pretty clogged, so I put in a 46 and it’s running great now.

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    On the intake leak line of thought... have you tried the carb/brake fluid mist test? While running, squirt some in and around the intake manifold from all angles. If there is a leak of any significance it will suck that mist in and drown out the engine (stall).

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    Quote Originally Posted by bpeak View Post
    On the intake leak line of thought... have you tried the carb/brake fluid mist test? While running, squirt some in and around the intake manifold from all angles. If there is a leak of any significance it will suck that mist in and drown out the engine (stall).
    I’ve heard about that but I haven’t tried it, I’ll give that a go tomorrow just for peace of mind.

    I rode again today for about 15 minutes and lost power on the way back. The battery tested at 9 volts when I got back to the shop. I swear it was charging the other day and now it’s not. I guess it has to be a bad voltage regulator? If not I’m out of ideas.

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    Generators are a little more difficult than alternator systems to daignose, without the tools for generator testing.
    However, here's a quick and dirty way to test the generator itself on the bike:

    You need a fully charged battery, a decent voltmeter, and two jumper leads. The battery should be hooked up on the bike as normal, or on a batteryless bike, battery negative must be hooked to the generator body or motor.
    Disconnect the regulator, this test is about the generator only. Also, if there's a generator lamp lead, disconnect it from the generator as well.
    Connect the voltmeter across the battery, and one test lead to each battery post. Voltmeter should be reading battery voltage.
    Start the motor and set it to run at 2500-3000 rpm.
    Connect the positive battery test lead to the A terminal and the negative lead to the F terminal, just for a couple of seconds. This full fields the generator, so only a couple of seconds! Voltmeter should rise to at least 16V, for a 12V system, or 7.5V for a six volt system.
    If it does not, the generator is bad. If it does reach the voltage, the generator may still have a couple of opens in the armature, but is still charging.
    If your generator passes this test, change the regulator. (And be sure the regulator, whether mechanical or electronic, is grounded. )
    If the generator fails this test, clean the commutator and brushes, and be sure the brushes are free to move in their holders and test again.
    Jim
    Last edited by JBinNC; 01-11-2019 at 9:29 AM.

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