Shovelhead idle issue

[Dragstews]

I have a wonder ...

Being you said yo're running a Super-E carb it's idle circuit is a bit deference from other carbs cause the idle mixture screw controls fuel not the air.
If you have a air cleaner on it that's blocking the air inlet port could be your problem ...



Their is a way to run the air cleaner (If indeed it's blocking the port)

Remover the plug that the blue arrow is pointing to ....

[Toucan]

Fat and oily. Typical shovel as Tattooo asserts. But you can have an intake leak and sooty plugs, they are not necessarily mutually exclusive.

Before you start dealing with your possible carb/intake issues, as discussed above, get your ignition RIGHT. That is motor tuning 101. Since you are a newbie by your own admission, post up the type of ignition you have, and those here with experience of that particular type will walk you through it.

As far as checking for intake leaks with propane, because the back of the air cleaner is there close to the intake, it is easy for the propane to find its way into the carb, and give you a false result. Your '76 should have orings for intake manifold to head seals, and these are very reliable. Unfortunately, many shovels have been fitted with the later band seals, which are problematic and have a relatively short life (4 - 6 years, as opposed to indefinite in the case of the orings).

It will be interesting to see how a novice works his way through tuning and repairing with this problem.

Jim

It is kick only with points.

[Toucan]

I have a wonder ...

Being you said yo're running a Super-E carb it's idle circuit is a bit deference from other carbs cause the idle mixture screw controls fuel not the air.
If you have a air cleaner on it that's blocking the air inlet port could be your problem ...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]96136[/ATTACH]

Their is a way to run the air cleaner (If indeed it's blocking the port)

Remover the plug that the blue arrow is pointing to ....

Ive set aside all day tomorrow to go through things. I'll check this out then. Thanks

[Toucan]

That would be a great place to start..... But I think he has got it fixed by tighten up the acc pump.....

Could you please elaborate on how to check and possibly tighten the acc. pump?

[Dragstews]

.

[Tattooo]

Could you please elaborate on how to check and possibly tighten the acc. pump?

Sorry I just looked through this thread.... It wasn't you that said that it was a different thread......

LOL After a while carb threads start looking the same..... LOL

But Jesse showed you above....

[Toucan]

Sorry I just looked through this thread.... It wasn't you that said that it was a different thread......

LOL After a while carb threads start looking the same..... LOL

But Jesse showed you above....

Haha right on.

In regards to ignition, should I just open it up and reset the points timing per manual? Or is there a way to test without completely redoing it?

[JBinNC]

Haha right on.

In regards to ignition, should I just open it up and reset the points timing per manual? Or is there a way to test without completely redoing it?

Go through the full routine. The symptoms you list could just as easily be ignition related. That variable has to be dealt with first.

Jim

[Toucan]

Go through the full routine. The symptoms you list could just as easily be ignition related. That variable has to be dealt with first.

Jim

Ill start there tomorrow. Thanks so much for the help and I'll keep the thread updated.

[JBinNC]

Service the advance unit before dealing with the points. You can change the points & condenser easily when the point plate is out for access to the advance unit.

Jim

[Toucan]

Service the advance unit before dealing with the points. You can change the points & condenser easily when the point plate is out for access to the advance unit.

Jim

Im finding tons of info on servicing and setting timing on the points but nothing mentions advance unit. What service is needed?

Should I put new points in or use existing?

[Tattooo]

Should I put new points in or use existing?

NEW if they have many miles on them...........

[JBinNC]

The advance unit should be removed, disassembled, cleaned, and greased with a light white lithium grease. If the pivot pins or weights are worn, the unit should be replaced. A bad advance unit can cause a hanging high idle, similar to a vacuum leak.

You can dress the points and reuse them if they were a good quality piece to start with, and are not too far gone. These days I prefer the Blue Streak points, and their very good condensers.

Don't forget to lube the point cam with point cam grease. I still have the tube I started with from back when I worked on cars. I doubt I will ever use it up.

Jim

[misfitJason]

I am dealing with this same issue right now. The difference between your situation and mine is I am sure I don’t have a intake leak at the seals. I swapped out all kinds of parts including my mechanical advance with no avail. All of this has led me to the throttle shaft and stupid nylon washer. That’s my next step

[JBinNC]

I am dealing with this same issue right now. The difference between your situation and mine is I am sure I don’t have a intake leak at the seals. I swapped out all kinds of parts including my mechanical advance with no avail. All of this has led me to the throttle shaft and stupid nylon washer. That’s my next step

I think I read about your issue on JJ (?) I don't hit that site very often.

I think your problem is low idle timing.

Here is how to fix it:
Go to a hobby shop and get a length of 7/32 OD brass hobby tubing, the kind that telescopes into the next size. (I think that is the right size, read along, and you can double check on your advance unit. )

Cut two pieces about 1/4" long, deburr, and press onto the limit pins on your advance weights. This will make the pin OD larger, limiting the travel of the advance weights.

Set your advanced timing where you want it, and the idle timing will automatically be higher. I do this routinely on shovels with Super Es, and I did it on my otherwise stock evo that is equipped with a Dyna S.

You will probably find kick starting EASIER.

If you don't think the change is enough, go back for the next size tubing and add another layer. (I have not had to do this yet.)

One of my tuning secrets, free to you. You sound like you are smart enough to appreciate it. I've done this probably close to 100 times.

Jim

P.S. To the OP, sorry for the hijack of your thread.