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has anyone done a repair to fix this crappy design. not just changing out the slippers but by modifying the cylinder and installing a gear or a modern hydraulic unit? feel unsafe knowing this part can lock the rear wheel at any time. where I live is traffic and I am riding a lane splitter. what are others doing out there?
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https://www.common-motor.com/honda-3...hain-tensioner looks interesting but I've not used one. -
does not look interesting. changed out 3 of them already. its a an awful design. saw this idler chain roller. could not be too hard to mount onto the inside of the cylinder
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Good link farmall; found this in their Tech Articles:
"For decades now the cam chain tensioner and cam chain guide found in the Honda CL / CJ / CB360 family of bikes has been a major cause of engine failure...
The good news is that new reproduction cam chain tensioners and cam chain guides for the Honda CL / CJ / CB360 motorcycles are now available.
This is exciting news for the CL / CJ / CB360 owners community with years of built up anticipation for these parts to be duplicated.
The cam chain tensioner and cam chain guide should be changed in every 360 engine to prevent a potential failure from the original parts.
The cam chain tensioner and cam chain guide are offered in a kit including both parts, each of which should be replaced at the same time...This is a great time to also replace the camshaft seal...
Follow along with us here at the Common Motor Collective as we show you step by step how to replace the cam chain tensioner and chain guide on a Honda CL / CJ / CB360 engine."
If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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not a good link because it points right back to the same modified slipper that does not last. there is a reason they only made these bikes for 2 years, the design sucks and the part fails. I have changed out 3 already once where the piston hit the valve and made a real mess.
my bike is a restomod so I want to upgrade to a real fix. I've done everything else.
at 70$ a pop for a part that fails is idiotic. the definition of crazy is doing the same thing and expecting a different outcome. I want a real fix. I have no problem fabbing up brackets to mount modern parts. would like to see how others have actually fixed this problem making a reliable bike. found this part for 13$ on ebay this is the setup I'll probably use.
Last edited by Guest; 07-27-2019, 6:22 AM.Comment
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$13 sounds cheap enough......
I bought my ex-wife a new one.... It was a great bike and had no problems what so ever.......Attached FilesComment
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A few comments for upgrades here:
"...Fit a new heavy duty parallel side plate chain (you have to get one for CB350/CB750 and shorten it 2 links, not a big deal)...Get a chain and link from Boretech, around $50.00 but worth it"
"Check if you have a single or dual spring on the tensioner plunger.
Early bikes only had a single spring (and many rebuilt motors only have single spring)
It doesn't tension chain properly, centrifugal loading on over run trows chain out to contact case.
You usually see some 'witness marks' (polishing) on the inside of 'horseshoe'"
"...Seems like delrin would make a good substitute for the original material."
Delrin, Acetal, and its many trade names is a material properly known as Polyoxymethylene or POM. It is one of the strongest plastics and is a good go-to material when you want the best properties of plastic, and don’t need the full strength of a metal part...One huge advantage to POM is its high lubricity. POM is often mistakenly said to have self-lubricating properties. However, it simply has a high abrasion resistance and a very low coefficient of friction, making it appear to be self lubricating.
If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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thanks for your reply. the cb360 cam chain slipper is a know issue and uses an antique design. its not the spring on the slipper that fails it is the rear slipper that snaps under centrifugal loading.
you sure are right about witness marks. another reason to go with a modern factory slipper. I also plan to change the cam chain. #219 is a popular kart size and is easy to fit.
as a mechanic who knows todays designs it's going to be an easy restomod. I've had enough. pic is gs750 and is 20$ on ebay all I need to do is grind to size to fit to the top of the cylinder and fit the tensioner to the cylinder
Last edited by Guest; 07-27-2019, 10:03 AM.Comment
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Show us that mod of adapting the GS 750 slipper - sounds like you got a new idea.If buildin' old school choppers was easy, anyone could do it... ain't nobody said it's gonna be easy...Comment
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One easy, dirt cheap way to adapt dissimilar bolt pattern flanges with little or no mods to the parts themselves is a double-faced adapter. You can use steel and make them quite thin. One side attaches with countersunk socket head screws or socket head screws ground or turned (I used a bench grinder on my first two carb adapters) to countersunk style. The opposite side uses countersunk screws facing the other direction acting as studs. I tack welded mine (the reason I used a steel plate) in place. They worked nicely adapting a Dodge Omni intake to a Vega carb (installed on my VW Scirocco when Bosch CIS died) and a Dodge 2.6L truck intake to a Pinto carb. Plate I used was some ~3/16" scrap but whatever works, works!
Same principle as these common flat plate Holley/Weber carb adapters: https://cdn3.volusion.com/pa9ja.37rf...jpg?1515491448
Looking for example pics found me this which would be easy to make yourself with a different mount flange if desired. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1980-19...-/360723475880Comment
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Are you writing in that big font because you have trouble seeing what you write otherwise? I wish i knew how to make the big big letters.��Comment
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