keep losing shovelhead exhaust bolts... suggestions?

was just wondering if anyone has suggestions its a completely stock 79' FXE, and I can't keep the rear exhaust on for longer than 20 to 50 miles. (single bolt heads btw) I know one of the problems is poor fitment of the pipe into the exhaust port, I can fix that with a grinder & sandpaper wheel to taper the exhaust to fit properly. The bolt hasn't damaged the threads enough yet. But I'm not risking it any longer. The bike will stay parked until I can solve this. I've heard studs and 2 lock nuts will do the trick. any ideas?

The stage 8 exhaust bolt kit works really good...it gets loose too but only just a little bit, it won't back out all the way

thanks, I'll take a look at those.

locktight should work.

Lockwire is yer friend. Don't trust Loctite!

Don't use bolts. Use studs, a lock washer and then just for good measure, I use double nuts.

Or simpler method:

(courtesy FXRBIGBORE)
Can't back out cause the cotter pin hits the pipe.

thanks, your the second person to tell me that. it sounds more secure than anything else I've heard.

really nice work, I was wondering how some of you guys did that. really appreciate it.

Still gotta check em no mater what you do. a slightly loose bolt will waller out the threads in short order
I'd rather have wire or a pin ( so you don't loose bolts when they loosen up) than over stress the alloy at the head with the double nut on a stud thing.
Fitment is key.
Locktight is meant to be removed with heat, so, um, exhaust and locktight = no.

Originally Posted by vetto

Done this on many shovels, works great. However, I recommend using a stud and nut instead of a bolt. I found a bunch of pre-drilled nuts a local industrial surplus shop the I use.


Also fitting an exhaust clamp in the middle of the pipe between the head and the rear exhaust mount will hold the pipe in place better. I welded a tab onto the back of my friends shovel exhaust pipes and attached the middle of the pipes to the frame, (exhaust clamps work too). Rear pipe to the transmission mount and the front pipe to the right foot control mount.

I used Stage 8 on mine and never had a problem. Got them tight and fitted the tab and then the lock on it. Worked great without any problems.

safety wire works very well. I kept loosing the rear bolt on my shovel as well. once on the road I replaced the bolt and used a larger hose clamp around the exhaust pipe itself, butted up against the bolt so that it wouldn't back out again. after that I drilled the head of the bolt and safety wired around the pipe and never had another problem.

J&P Cycle part number 440-583 Exhaust Port Fastener. Need to use with studs.

http://www.jpcycles.com/exhaust-mounting?Nao=30

I had the same problem on my Panhead (which has been modified to take shovelhead exhaust flanges). It turned out that my pipes were not adequately mounted, and the mounts it did have weren't perfectly aligned, meaning that they were putting torque on the manifold as they vibrated, encouraging them to come loose.

We took the pipes off, cut off the mounts, re-attached them and aligned them, and welded up some more robust mounts (my rear one had only been held by one point; they both now have two points in addition to the manifold). I haven't had a problem since (although I still check and tighten the bolts regularly - but they used to come loose every 25-30 miles like you are having).

I always used to use Locktight 620 on the race car manifolds I would build. I never, ever had one thread out. I used it on my sporty without any problems either. I think it was good to hold up to like 650 degrees. Cheaper than the alternative.

I was happily riding down the road at about 50 miles when I heard a change in the sound of the bike. Looked down and rear exhaust was gone.

The stud came aout of the head, with nut still on it and somehow the rear exhaust bracket shat it self at the same time.

A car drove over the pipe in the road.

So now, after buying a new exhaust I to need to find out a way to fix this. didn't know about stage 8 when I ordered new stuff. Will try to locktight it in the head and most likely use this hose clamp trick. Sounds cheap and easy.

Originally Posted by andri

I was happily riding down the road at about 50 miles when I heard a change in the sound of the bike. Looked down and rear exhaust was gone.

The stud came aout of the head, with nut still on it and somehow the rear exhaust bracket shat it self at the same time.

A car drove over the pipe in the road.

So now, after buying a new exhaust I to need to find out a way to fix this. didn't know about stage 8 when I ordered new stuff. Will try to locktight it in the head and most likely use this hose clamp trick. Sounds cheap and easy.

Make sure you use Locktight 620. Anything else won't stay. Regular Locktight red will breakdown from the heat. And blue would be pointless.

This stuff here:

http://www.drillspot.com/products/92...g_compound?s=1

Larger bottle here:

http://www.totalindustrialsupply.com...40&Click=80158

Lock wire is the way I always go!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!